getlocivic
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Posts posted by getlocivic
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Terrible music, but that's very loud for sure.
why bc its not some gucci mane or waka flocka??
some of the "gayest" songs are the best for sq
..and thats what he was trying to do to show how loud n clean it is not how much midbass hes got
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do plenty of research in the threads there have been direct tests betweent he kinetik shuriken and xs and juicebox batteries
let the results let you decide
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i really like the green door panels
shits sick
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never wait to do the big 3.. big 3 is a MUST upgrade
factory charging lines are 8g or smaller..how can them supply.. 0g wire etc etc
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box is a little big.. should be fine tho for awhile till you get another box made etc.. turn the amp down and stay within mechanical limits of the woofers
bigger box means less power
smaller box more power
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lots of high bass going on
LMAO, your new avatar.^
whatcha talkin bout willis
thats the SMARTEST man alive
why.. bc 15" subs excurt and change box size
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lots of high bass going on
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um and i just saw a shuriken sk-bt20 battery. would it be good for me? just a little reserve? its $75 and i could work that into my budget i think. input on the battery?
they are only 60 bux new online i picked up one local for 30 bux and that was pushing it..
at any rate a small battery int he back is better than a junk capacitor..
and check the voltage at amp while playing if it gets below 12.6 or so you need to further upgrade the electrical
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i only use OFC wire i never use the CCA crap and ive seen absolute wire before...real thick insulation the 2g is actually going to be 4g wire..
so i would for sure look into something better..
try looking up american bass 0g wire or audiopipe wire both are OFC and actual gauge size..
and from sub amp to subs deending on the wattage 1000w rms sub amp to 2 woofers id run 12g wire.. im running 12g wire in my install and i havnt had a warm wire yet etc..and im well above 1k rms
2k rms and more id use 10g or 8g wire for subs
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is dude on a scooter?? cant really see it well enough
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I would deffinately do two runs because the body is pretty thin and the newer the car the more aluminum used in most cased so that adds resistance to your ground circuit. If you've got the extra wire you could do a neg from batt to frame as well just for extra assurance
what? english please? the car is 1995. and has a steel frame. not a unibody. but im doing 2 runs (one pos and one neg) min, i just want to know if i should do more than just that.
what 1995 car has a "steel frame" 99% of all cars n suvs are unibody
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not every car works well with port behind driver
ive had VERY good luck with subs bottom port up top
and a 1500 per sub..lol...be wayyy careful if you have electrical to support them
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my fi q 15 played real low
3.6 cubes net tuned to 26hz 14" per easily played 20hz bass like nothing peaked in the mid 30s too just my style
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ma hk 4000d draws around 350 amps right?? i had the littlebrother to the 4k and it drew mid 200ish amps..
stock alt just simply cannot supply the massive current draw
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the optidrive series is nice other than that they arnt good at all
but the OLD optidrive is the stuff to use
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my stinger voltmeter has been in 4 different cars and used daily for 2yrs its never failed for me
keep it in a place with minimal vibration and they last forever
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no alternator has a ground stud..
use the mounting hardware there aka a nice bolt.. run 0g from that alt bracket to a strut tower or directly to your underhood battery ground
bc a alternator is a power source and needs a positive and neg to fully work that extra ground just completes it all
and people who have batteries in trunk for stock they think they dont need a big3 bc the battery is already so close to the amps..wll its the SAME thing in any other car .. upgrade all the wires
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nice n low bass idk about the song.. thats got to be 1 of the gayest songs ive herd in awhile
where is this going to.. is a chick song
nice job for actually getting j audio subs loud n low
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you don't need 0 gauge power for a 800 rms amp. you almost dont need the big 3. once you do big 3 and if you have a good bat you should be fine. depending on youfr headlights you may always get some dimming. switch to hid!
right because the stock wires tahst arw usually 8g or smaller can supply say 4g wire... NOT
the big 3 is a mUST for any system no matter how big or small it is..VOLTAGE is the key in any system
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^^ listen to the man
thats all the answers you need
again a outstanding vendor not even trying to push a product on you thats sweet
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them subs need wayyyyyyyyyy more power
yeah i hear ya..
when i had my btl 15 fully upgraded..all options available (ufo motor) i was giving it 2800w daily and it barely got warm after 20mins of beating the crap out of it
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scrape off all excess stuff with a razor blade and then wipe down with alcohol
also if you use a heatgun no matter the brand of deadener it always goes on easier/comforms better and sticks better too
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i have stuck my head in the port of a 155 156 legal vehicle
so high 160s at the port?? my ears ringed for a couple days but that was it
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155db and up is very hurtful
as for the whole bullshit about going deaf..thats a total crock of shit
i been a basshead for many many many years and herd many 150db plus rides and i can still hear (just as good before i started audio)
in my book find something else to do your paper on..something that actually happens
Amercian bass xfl got me in trouble with the police..haha
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funny how he claims jp audio all the time even got the shirts to say it..
but dont even know if you got subs wired up right,,, somethings wrong there............hmmmmm
aint even up 25% rriiiiigggghhhhttttt