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getlocivic

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Posts posted by getlocivic

  1. um and i just saw a shuriken sk-bt20 battery. would it be good for me? just a little reserve? its $75 and i could work that into my budget i think. input on the battery?

    they are only 60 bux new online i picked up one local for 30 bux and that was pushing it..

    at any rate a small battery int he back is better than a junk capacitor..

    and check the voltage at amp while playing if it gets below 12.6 or so you need to further upgrade the electrical

  2. i only use OFC wire i never use the CCA crap and ive seen absolute wire before...real thick insulation the 2g is actually going to be 4g wire..

    so i would for sure look into something better..

    try looking up american bass 0g wire or audiopipe wire both are OFC and actual gauge size..

    and from sub amp to subs deending on the wattage 1000w rms sub amp to 2 woofers id run 12g wire.. im running 12g wire in my install and i havnt had a warm wire yet etc..and im well above 1k rms

    2k rms and more id use 10g or 8g wire for subs

  3. I would deffinately do two runs because the body is pretty thin and the newer the car the more aluminum used in most cased so that adds resistance to your ground circuit. If you've got the extra wire you could do a neg from batt to frame as well just for extra assurance

    what? english please? the car is 1995. and has a steel frame. not a unibody. but im doing 2 runs (one pos and one neg) min, i just want to know if i should do more than just that.

    what 1995 car has a "steel frame" 99% of all cars n suvs are unibody

  4. no alternator has a ground stud..

    use the mounting hardware there aka a nice bolt.. run 0g from that alt bracket to a strut tower or directly to your underhood battery ground

    bc a alternator is a power source and needs a positive and neg to fully work that extra ground just completes it all

    and people who have batteries in trunk for stock they think they dont need a big3 bc the battery is already so close to the amps..wll its the SAME thing in any other car .. upgrade all the wires

  5. you don't need 0 gauge power for a 800 rms amp. you almost dont need the big 3. once you do big 3 and if you have a good bat you should be fine. depending on youfr headlights you may always get some dimming. switch to hid!

    right because the stock wires tahst arw usually 8g or smaller can supply say 4g wire... NOT

    the big 3 is a mUST for any system no matter how big or small it is..VOLTAGE is the key in any system

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