JustinWillmon

So ive went to long with out subs in my truck and want to finally order mine. Im going with DC Lvl 4's. Ram_Designs made a 4th order for the subs i want. My question is im planning on running 4 of them off a sundown saz-2500 (will uograde soon) and hopefully a dc 5k later on. Do i go with dual 4 or dual 2's, i wanna run as close to 1 ohm as possible so what do i need to do?

It sounds really clean, i added a center channel in the dash since it already had a spot from the factory. I hooked it up to the deck only but im still contemplating on if im gonna leave it or not, its a little bit bright for my taste but well see what happens there. Other then that though it sounds pretty good and gets loud...Im waiting for my SMD distortion detector to really tune in my gains and all before i start cranking it real loud. The bass hits really hard too and for what it is just a small 10" can get down fairly low. Im thinking with that new box and putting in the type R it might be a little louder and dig down deeper then the cvr that is in there now so im ready for it to be here.

Thanks guys the only thing im not happy with is that box, thats why a new one needs to happen soon. Im gonna make it as small as possible while still having aenough airspace, hopefully by doing this it will move the box away from that NOS bottle and make the trunk look a little more proportional. And i still need to add the NOS sticker on the box so it doesnt look like a fire extinguisher back there haha

Got most of the car done, i finished up all the wiring and cleaned up all the wiring. Did the big 3 upgrade, but i think im gonna go ahead and upgrade the battery. Everything sounds great, loud and clear....way better then before. I ended up putting some small 6x9 boxes in the trunk, i couldnt figure out a way to add anymore speakers in the cabin without cutting into door panels or anything, and my dad didnt want to do that. They sound good, it will work out good for car shows, drive ins, etc. I have a Alpine Type R on the way, gonna do a sealed box since space is limited but it should sound pretty good and get loud. But on to the pictures Nothing to special going on, like i said we wanted to keep it mostly stock looking but have some good loud stereo equipment. For 42 year old car i think it sounds great. Hopefully in between work next week, ill be able to get my box done and put the sub in, and possibly upgrade that front battery. Feel free to let me know what you think!

Alright I think I might have figure out how to do it. When I'm hooking up the amp to the battery is it just the same as a car or do I need to do anything special? It has dual batteries already so I'm thinking just ground it, power to battery and remote wire?

Another question I have, Is how do I hook the amp up. The back of the stereo doesn't have rcas on it and I can't figure out how to make it work. I could use an eq but then how do I get sound to the eq?

Yeah ive really been eyeing the kicker 6500.2 it says its an HLCD speaker and is horn loaded so it seems like with the right amount of power you would be able to hear it pretty far behind the boat. If hes just looking for sound and doesnt really care about getting sound outside the boat then, maybe like the kicker kmt60, a sub and a 5 channel amp? Im mainly looking at kicker cause they seem to have stuff that i could get for a little cheaper and im hoping its quality stuff.

Ya i have found some pretty good prices on stuff, but i dont want it to sound like crap.. I have no experience with marine audio so i dont have a clue what brands are good and what isnt. I guess i need some insight on what brands to check out, i know whats good in car audio but dont know if any of that would sound good in a can on a tower.

Hey guys im not sure if this is the correct place or if anyone even has experience with boats on here. But if so i would love some help. I have a friend that came to me and wants a system for his boat... (tower speakers, amp, and sub.) He went to a local audio shop and they quoted him for 2 speakers an amp and sub 3100 dollars. All that stuff was wetsound which i know is good but there has to be something that can get just as loud for cheaper. He wants to keep it around $2000 dollars. So does anyone have experience with boats? Ive never done one before so it would be something new but i think i could get him a good system for less than 3100 dollars and it would be an experience for me as well. So any help or recommendations on what to get or where to look?

I actually haven't cut the hole yet. That's the seat belt bracket being grounded down since I plan to hopefully redo the interior looking into doing a custom console with captain seats in the front and back, I just need to figure out what type of seats to run. I plan on finishing my dads 69 camaro build tomorrow and then I'll get started on mine and as I get to it slowly order the stuff, I'm planning on it being pretty loud though so we shall see.

I forgot to mention the electrical will consist of: XS D6500 up front XS D3100 in the back (possibly adding 2 more) DC 270 amp alternator Big 3 with KnuKnoceptz 0 gauge All runs of 0 gauge will be with Knukonceptz Kolluses Flex 0 gauge

Well i realized i had a bunch of pictures from my build and decided i would go ahead and start a build log on here. The truck is nowhere close to being done but im trying to save some money for school as well as complete this so it may take some time. The plan is to have it completely done by hopefully Christmas time, its gonna be for daily use only as i have never done any show but i may enter in a few if i can find some close to me. Equipment: Pioneer AVIC-Z130BT Sundown Saz-2500D 4 15" DC Level 4 HAT Imagine Components (2 or 3 pair) for each door JL HD 600/4 Second Skin Damplifier Pro Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro The plan is to fiberglass my front doors and run at least 2 pair of the HAT's in each door and have each door hooked up to a JL 600/4. The box is gonna be a blowthrough 4th order clamshell, that Ram_Designs has already designed. I am waiting on ordering the subs as i know everybody and their dog is waiting to receive their orders from DC, since im in no rush ill just wait a few weeks then order but im definitely going with the 4 15" level 4's. The Sundown will most likely go into the truck, unless i can find a DC 5K for a good price or do some sort of trade or something. If i cant ill just run the Sundown until i get some more cash. The truck has been deadened using the Damplifier Pro, i still need to do the floor one more time and do the roof a couple times and then see where im at and then ill add in the Luxury Liner.I previously had Dynamat on all the doors and back wall and had to peel all that off, which took forever, so if you see Dynamat in any of the pictures thats why. The majority of my money so far has went to deadener so it should be properly deadened all the way around. But anyways on to the pictures if yall have any questions or comments fell free to let me know.

Yeah thats the old box and sub, still have to build a new box...Thinking a slot port tuned to around 32-34. Still not sure on the sub maybe a sundown sa-10 or sa-12. I really want to do with DC but dont want to wait as it looks like it could be awhile since theres people who ordered in April and still havent gotten theres. I just had that in there so i knew about how much room the new box would take up, but i definitely agree with you.

Thanks man. The car is getting a whole motor swap, so it will definitely gonna be cleaned up as well as add some horsepower. Obviously this car wasnt made for crazy sound systems, so space is a bit limited but im hoping its gonna sound pretty good for what it will have. This is my first time doing something like that amp rack so it turned out all right i guess, but theres always room for improvement. As for that impala im in love with it. I would drive that thing all day long, i wish i could have gotten a picture of the motor cause whoever restored it had it ridiculously clean. Every little piece that could be painted was color matched to the car. The owner was keeping his eye on me though so i didnt wanna try to sneak a few pictures of it.

You will have to find a rep on here that can get you the pricing of level 2's. I know they can handle 300 watts all day long and i would assume that is a little underrated. But if i were you i would go the dc and audioque setup. If you can wait out the wait for the dc equipment i think it would be worth it. The kicker route would probably be pretty loud in your truck but if your like me i get tired of running the same stuff as other people so i like being just as loud if not louder with stuff other people think is shitty because it isnt kicker, jl, etc. Just be sure and do the Big 3 upgrade and on that much power that should be about all you need and i think you would be pretty damn happy with it.

I have the same exact truck. When i was running that setup i was using Kicker cvr's. They got pretty loud but you definitely arent gonna win any sq competitions with them. If your just looking for loud i would look into that with the kicker 1000.1 amp. Another really good setup would be 2 dc level 2 10's and look into maybe an audioque AQ750 amp. Not sure on the dc subs price but the amp is right around 200. Those subs require .5 each for airspace so they should fit your airspace for the box and the moutning depth is 5.25. I imagine you could get it all for less than 750 dollars and it would be pretty damn loud for an under the seat setup.

Got a little bit of work done on the car today. Ive finished about everything i can do until i get some equipment and wiring in. Im waiting on a new head unit as well as some 1/0 and RCA's and other stuff from knukonceptz. When it gets done it should sound pretty good and look pretty factory looking up front at least....not so much in the trunk but oh well. On to the pictures. This is when i started on the base of the amp rack, ended up cutting the 1x4's down some so the base wasnt so tall. Didnt get many pictures of the progress of the build, but heres the final product with the amps mounted. Still not 100% sure i like it but it was my first time building an amp rack so its alright i guess. Later on i may end up just doing the false floor but this will hold me over until then. Heres the amps and rack test fitted in the trunk still have some organizing and cleaning it up a bit, as well as securing it in place. And finally the last thing i did today was make the speaker baffles for the fronts. Gonna probably end up running Hat Imagine 6.5 and just bridging the amp. The cutout is weird in the car where the speakers go, so that explains the odd shape. Didnt want yall thinking i cut wood like shit haha And not part of my build....but it was a sick car that me and my dad got to tint the other day, so i figured yall might enjoy it too. An old Impala completely restored.

Going active would require a channel of your amp for each speaker. For example if you have a midbass and tweeter in one door, the tweeter would get one channel on the amp, the midbass driver would get the other channel etc. Thats the basic idea of it im sure someone will chime in with what to look for in an amp and more technical information than i know about.

Thanks for the help guys. im gonna show him this thread, hes saying he can get the p3's for cheap. Which i dont know how?? Unless maybe there used? I told him if he went with sundown or dc he would be way happier but he wont listen. Maybe if i show him where 15 different people on this thread are telling him not to buy from this shop and go with dc or sundown hell actually listen. If not oh well its not my money hes wasting. I was just trying to save him some trouble later on down the road. Edit: Nevermind i was thinking p3's were as much as the type r shallow mounts. I can see why he can get them for cheap now i found them for like 89 dollars online.

Ya that was my first thought but there to deep. I'm trying to talk him into sundown but his exact text was "wtf is sundown" shows how much he knows. Haja

Thanks for te quick replies guys. I've een texting him and he said he's been talking to an audio shop in our area and he said he's looking at the p3 shallow mounts which is right at 5.5". Are those any good I tried showing him the site but he said for me to take care of it but he woul prefer to pay cash and buy from the audio shop here. So any input on those?

Alright I checked the cvr but it says 6 1/4 I just don't believe that a probox in a truck is only 5.5" does anyone run one and know if it's any bigger? I would measure it but he's at work so I don't have access to his truck until probably this weekend.

Amp is a kicker 750.1 I think he's basically looking for it just to hit hard. Since he bought the box he doesn't want to build one or anything so I'm tryin to help him out.

My buddy is trying to get some subs for his truck. It's an 08 chevy silverado 4 door. He already has a probox for 2 12" but his mounting depth is only 5.5 inches. He was gonna go with fosgate p3 but since they don't fit I told him to wait and I would see what y'all think. His budget is around 300 for the pair. Any help?

Not sure on the geometry as i dont know how to do the different sides, if it were all the same i think you would have figured it out. But your elite design inc tag had me rolling hahah