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Everything posted by Dezzy FN Baybee
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4 DD3518s 20,000 watts
Dezzy FN Baybee replied to Dezzy FN Baybee's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
No such thing I ran 2 3518s and 1 Maxximus in my Hyundai. All I did was double it up. DD makes a lovely speaker -
4 DD3518s 20,000 watts
Dezzy FN Baybee replied to Dezzy FN Baybee's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
here are my amps And the install in my sig is actually my avatar -
4 DD3518s 20,000 watts
Dezzy FN Baybee replied to Dezzy FN Baybee's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
yes and yes I'll post them here for ya in a second. Actually no the HF1415s I don't have yet. I'll have all those in 2 weeks -
Here's a little sketch of what's going in my van sometime during the next few weeks, after it warms up some. I over compensated a little for the bracing I might add. Which will take anywhere from .5 - 1.5 cubic feet. So my enclosure volume may go up and tuning frequency may drop but its going to be between 35-36 Hz and 24.11-25.xx cubic feet net. [box] Outer Dimensions Height: 41" Width: 52.75" Depth: 35" [Port] Inner Dimensions Height: 39.5" Width: 14" Length: 20" Equipment Subs: (4) Digital Designs 3500 series 18s Dual 2 Amps: (2) Hifonics XX Maxximus 10,000 rms @ 14.4v
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Ok now it all makes sense to me. My last ported box was tuned to 45Hz and my car peaked at 57Hz. So basically I needed to tune my box to about 55Hz to get the full benefit of using a vented enclosure(in an SPL sense). So if I were to tune to 25Hz with the exact same box I would have the same score as the 45Hz box because of the fact that my car liked 57Hz anyway. Please correct me where I'm wrong.
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this here is exactly what i'm asking to be explained. The science behind the port says that at frequencies around the tuning frequency of the box the subwoofer will have less excursion resulting in more subwoofer control. But it doesn't explain why tuning to 40hz will give you a higher score than 30Hz
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I understand most of it. but I've never tested it for myself. They generally say if you're going for SQ and tuning around 30Hz it will decrease your overall score. I know a guy who raised his tuning from low 30 something to maybe mid-high 40 (judging by the port) and dropped. So I'm just trying to understand the science
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I'm looking to do nothing more but put up godly numbers without being in an extreme class. Based on my research and prior experience I've concluded that I need a small box with a huge port and a high tuning frequency. So I'm planning to make a wall 17.56 ft3 @ 65Hz with 543 in2 of port area Suggestions?
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Just saying in general. DB drag rules say you can't play lower than 20 Hz or higher than 80Hz. which score higher on Term Lab? Higher frequencies or lower frequencies?
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40 Hz and below or 41 and up?
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I have a DMM. I know it wasn't smart but I hooked it up the over the weekend and played with it for an hour or so. Using 4 gauge power cable from my old RF Amp kit, the Kinetik HC2000 and a Duralast 1000 CA battery I borrowed. The Maxximus has 4 hots and 4 grounds I kept each connection no longer than 8 inches in length directly to the battery. No alternator just those 2 batteries in the trunk played the whole time without dropping below 12.2v
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its a new AC mic lol. I know whats comming next ITS NOT A TERMLAB lol but its what we use in alaska. I was told the new AC were equall to the TL's. AC is usualy 3-5db higher than TL numbers from my testing. But hey if its what you use up there than good job Not even close I did a 149.5 on the AC sealed. Then did 143.4 from the headrest at MECA the next weekend. Headrest scores higher with the door open I believe. So I'm thinking it would have been something like 139 on TL. But good score bro, you'll be maxing out that meter in no time. Ask Questions!!!
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Wish I could have stayed to chat but I had to go to work. otherwise i have no money to dump into this. I'm not a complete noob nor do I have 20+ years of experience. I'm going on 21 in about a month I started competing in 2008. I do my research and I just try to learn as much as I can because I love the sport. I'm not the type of guy to pay someone to do everything for me I do my own installs and take pride in my work. My first competition I did 139.9 in MECA's M4 class, last month same class I did 143.4. My highest official score at a show is 147.3 @ 57hz legal. I had the 2 3518s in the same box mentioned with 2 Power Acoustik OV1-5500D amps strapped. Now I've upgraded to the XX Maxximus, which brings me to this topic.
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No I was just going to run the batteries together in the trunk. 6 or 7 batteries directly to the amp Do us all a favor, and stick with 12V... If you get 16V batteries, and don't get some sort of external regulator, you'll fuck them up. If you do run an external regulator, and think your car will be fine, you'll fuck it up... Best advice I can give you is to READ... Read lots of stuff... Its all right here... Learn and then make your decision... thanks. I just wanted some opinions. the previous owner said it would take 16v all day long in those exact words. But mike from maxxsonics said its not 16v stable. what about the 14v batteries? still too risky?
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well I have been doing demos when I had my crappy Power Acoustik 5500. I had a kinetik 2000 wired to my starting battery and a 20 fared cap. But I paid all this money on a amp and I just want to get all of what i paid for. I really want to put up some numbers so I was looking to try 14v or 16v batteries