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Posts posted by Dezzy FN Baybee
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i think you have a touch too much power for 3500s.
No such thing I ran 2 3518s and 1 Maxximus in my Hyundai. All I did was double it up. DD makes a lovely speaker
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here are my amps
And the install in my sig is actually my avatar
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Nice, you have all the equipment already?
And do you have pics of the install already in your Sig?
yes and yes I'll post them here for ya in a second. Actually no the HF1415s I don't have yet. I'll have all those in 2 weeks
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Here's a little sketch of what's going in my van sometime during the next few weeks, after it warms up some. I over compensated a little for the bracing I might add. Which will take anywhere from .5 - 1.5 cubic feet. So my enclosure volume may go up and tuning frequency may drop but its going to be between 35-36 Hz and 24.11-25.xx cubic feet net.
[box] Outer Dimensions
Height: 41"
Width: 52.75"
Depth: 35"
[Port] Inner Dimensions
Height: 39.5"
Width: 14"
Length: 20"
Equipment
Subs: (4) Digital Designs 3500 series 18s Dual 2
Amps: (2) Hifonics XX Maxximus 10,000 rms @ 14.4v
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A ported box is a HP filter, 12dB/oct. Notice how ported boxes roll-off at around 24 dB/oct instead of the average 12 for sealed boxes. Imagine the cone of the speaker as a weight, imagine the suspension as a spring, and now hang the weight from the spring and you have a resonant system. Compliance, resonance, it's all there. The port is essentially a smaller spring and a smaller weight attached to the first one. The port itself is similar to a helmholtz resonator. At a certain frequency, depending on tuning, the port will resonate. The energy providing this continued resonance is the backwave of the speaker. At port resonance, the speaker motion is resisted and the cone barely moves. At tuning, I think the port is 90 degrees out of phase with the sub, no biggie. As you go down in frequency, the sub unloads and it might as be free-air. Above that, the port and speaker are close enough in phase so that the response adds.
So, a vented enclosure extends the response of a speaker by adding another lower resonance powerred by the speaker.
This is one level of understanding of vented boxes. It can get more complex and does.
Ok now it all makes sense to me. My last ported box was tuned to 45Hz and my car peaked at 57Hz. So basically I needed to tune my box to about 55Hz to get the full benefit of using a vented enclosure(in an SPL sense). So if I were to tune to 25Hz with the exact same box I would have the same score as the 45Hz box because of the fact that my car liked 57Hz anyway. Please correct me where I'm wrong.
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29 hz would take away because the higher the frequency the easier it is to get loud. Your box will work better with your vehicle at a higher fq assuming it would be closer to the resonant frequency of the vehicle
idk if that whats ur lookin for either?
this here is exactly what i'm asking to be explained. The science behind the port says that at frequencies around the tuning frequency of the box the subwoofer will have less excursion resulting in more subwoofer control. But it doesn't explain why tuning to 40hz will give you a higher score than 30Hz
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I understand most of it. but I've never tested it for myself. They generally say if you're going for SQ and tuning around 30Hz it will decrease your overall score. I know a guy who raised his tuning from low 30 something to maybe mid-high 40 (judging by the port) and dropped. So I'm just trying to understand the science
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please and thank you
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I'm looking to do nothing more but put up godly numbers without being in an extreme class. Based on my research and prior experience I've concluded that I need a small box with a huge port and a high tuning frequency. So I'm planning to make a wall 17.56 ft3 @ 65Hz with 543 in2 of port area
Suggestions?
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Just saying in general. DB drag rules say you can't play lower than 20 Hz or higher than 80Hz. which score higher on Term Lab? Higher frequencies or lower frequencies?
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40 Hz and below or 41 and up?
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Oh I see what your saying now, one inside the car to read.
edit: where can I get a 300-350 amp alt that I can drive with? thats actually true to the spec?
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I would invest in a good alternator of atleast 300-350amps.(bigger=better)
i think those amps didn't like voltage below 11.5-12v or above 16.
SO if you don't have a voltmeter yet in your car, get one for 20-25 dollar.
I have a DMM. I know it wasn't smart but I hooked it up the over the weekend and played with it for an hour or so. Using 4 gauge power cable from my old RF Amp kit, the Kinetik HC2000 and a Duralast 1000 CA battery I borrowed. The Maxximus has 4 hots and 4 grounds I kept each connection no longer than 8 inches in length directly to the battery. No alternator just those 2 batteries in the trunk played the whole time without dropping below 12.2v
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what type of meter is that
its a new AC mic lol. I know whats comming next ITS NOT A TERMLAB lol but its what we use in alaska. I was told the new AC were equall to the TL's.
AC is usualy 3-5db higher than TL numbers from my testing. But hey if its what you use up there than good job
Not even close I did a 149.5 on the AC sealed. Then did 143.4 from the headrest at MECA the next weekend. Headrest scores higher with the door open I believe. So I'm thinking it would have been something like 139 on TL. But good score bro, you'll be maxing out that meter in no time. Ask Questions!!!
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Wish I could have stayed to chat but I had to go to work. otherwise i have no money to dump into this. I'm not a complete noob nor do I have 20+ years of experience. I'm going on 21 in about a month I started competing in 2008. I do my research and I just try to learn as much as I can because I love the sport. I'm not the type of guy to pay someone to do everything for me I do my own installs and take pride in my work. My first competition I did 139.9 in MECA's M4 class, last month same class I did 143.4. My highest official score at a show is 147.3 @ 57hz legal. I had the 2 3518s in the same box mentioned with 2 Power Acoustik OV1-5500D amps strapped. Now I've upgraded to the XX Maxximus, which brings me to this topic.
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45HZ?????????
dont you think thats a lil bit high??
why not tune it lower...like 32,34,36hz??
I heard thats what I needed to build it at if i was going for spl
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Just curious, how much DID you pay lol?
$1300 hardly anything, they used to sell for like $10000 so i jumped on it quick
so what did they sell for 10.000 dollars??
XX Maxximus back in 07 used to be $10000 brand new
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he did post that he had 1 220A mechman alternator....think he should be buyin another one??
No I don't have one i was planning on getting one. but i wanted to hear some opinions first. I just have a stock alt and batt plus a kinetik hc2000 at the moment
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Alright, sounds reasonable for 10kw, if it does rated. What subwoofers/ how many do you plan to use with it? You will need a hefty electrical system to support that power as well...
Right now I have 2 DD 3518s Dual 2 in a wall tuned to 45hz
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Just curious, how much DID you pay lol?
$1300 hardly anything, they used to sell for like $10000 so i jumped on it quick
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Are you planning on running a 16 volt alternator and then running a step down module?
No I was just going to run the batteries together in the trunk. 6 or 7 batteries directly to the amp
Do us all a favor, and stick with 12V... If you get 16V batteries, and don't get some sort of external regulator, you'll fuck them up. If you do run an external regulator, and think your car will be fine, you'll fuck it up... Best advice I can give you is to READ... Read lots of stuff... Its all right here... Learn and then make your decision...
thanks. I just wanted some opinions. the previous owner said it would take 16v all day long in those exact words. But mike from maxxsonics said its not 16v stable. what about the 14v batteries? still too risky?
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Some competitors do that and then charge it later. Thats fine if you arent giving long demos. But why not just go with 12 volts and run more batteries and still have a solid electrical?
are you burping only?
well I have been doing demos when I had my crappy Power Acoustik 5500. I had a kinetik 2000 wired to my starting battery and a 20 fared cap. But I paid all this money on a amp and I just want to get all of what i paid for. I really want to put up some numbers so I was looking to try 14v or 16v batteries
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14v batteries charge at 16v and 16v batteries charge at 18v. I'd say stick with the upgraded alt and stick with the 12v XS Power line for your batteries.
for charging purposes I would just use a battery charger. I don't play my system for hours on end I hardly ever play it unless i'm on the meter or someone wants to temporarily deafen themselves.
Another that cant read so well...
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted
I'm sorry Mr SMD Forum All Star Sir. I should have read the rules