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IBleedMusick

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Posts posted by IBleedMusick

  1. Wut up people,

    Here is the deal I am doing my Civic's FLI Audio build and I have reached a point where I need to start adding the trimmings before I complete the main build. As far as trimmings go I am installing a volt meter, trunk lights, lights under each seat and lights on the mids/highs amp. So here are my questions:

    Where do I wire the Volt Meter to get the best reading from my car when it's on with the engine running and when its on without the engine running?

    What wire in the car should I hook the trunk lights up to so that they are on when the car is running and when I just have the key in the ignition listening to music?

    Same question for the lights under the seat?

    The lights for the mids and highs amps will be hooked up to the remote turn on at the amp so I have my answer for those.

    All lights will have toggle switches on them just for my own craziness when ever I need to cut them off I like to know I can turn them off if need be.

    I am going to be doing the same thing soon so what i did was get a relay and junction box post splitter and wire it so you could run everything to the splitter and it will turn on when your radio does.

    Pic for your viewing

    DSCN2646.jpg

    as far as the volt meter i would run it to the battery that you ran your amps to. although i am not to sure on the volt meter

    That's a great idea but where can I get a junction box post splitter from and the relay?

  2. Wut up people,

    Here is the deal I am doing my Civic's FLI Audio build and I have reached a point where I need to start adding the trimmings before I complete the main build. As far as trimmings go I am installing a volt meter, trunk lights, lights under each seat and lights on the mids/highs amp. So here are my questions:

    Where do I wire the Volt Meter to get the best reading from my car when it's on with the engine running and when its on without the engine running?

    What wire in the car should I hook the trunk lights up to so that they are on when the car is running and when I just have the key in the ignition listening to music?

    Same question for the lights under the seat?

    The lights for the mids and highs amps will be hooked up to the remote turn on at the amp so I have my answer for those.

    All lights will have toggle switches on them just for my own craziness when ever I need to cut them off I like to know I can turn them off if need be.

  3. all i want to say tony is a very good person and now because of him i'm sporting my DD-1 sticker and shirt now in Belize City Central America BIG UP TO TONY and STEVE MEADE for the best product and also just put on my sticker as soon as i got off the plane yesterday on one of 3 cars that is tune with the DD-1 the rest of cars well soon have but we have hurricane RINA on our hands but one is one already and to show you how much i love it i just took one in the rain from RINA lol.

    How can I get my hands on one of those D'Amore Stickers? Are they custom made?

  4. I just got mine haven't had a chance to put it to work yet but I have five cars that will be getting it in the next few days I will be including videos of each one being tuned. I'm so damn excited like a kid in a candy store.

    Don't forget to pick up a 9V battery. :)

    LOL Yep picked up a pair last night tuning my first system on Friday then my car once I finish building it, lol. I have quite a few more to do this should be fun.

  5. I don't know if the Zeus would work. Only 2 ways I know how I could wire it up. If I ran each sub off each channel I'd be looking at 400w per ch or if I bridged the amp that would be 800w both of which would be over the 300w rms for each sub. I would browse the for sale section, but most of ya'll use paypal or something. I got burned big time using paypal and lost a lot of money so I no longer use them.

    You can go with the Zeus you don't need the amp to be exactly what the subs are rated in fact a little extra breathing room for the amp is good. If tuned properly using an O-Scope or DD-1 the amp will never send more power to the subwoofers then what they can truly handle.

  6. Back in the day Phoenix Gold used to be one of the heavy hitters, then they fell off for awhile like every other big name they got money hungry and with cheap with their builds they were bought by AAMP of America not to long ago (If you don't know AAMP of America they own JL Audio, Stinger, PAC, SoundQuest and a few others) and they scrapped the old line and reinvented what the product use to mean. Their newer stuff is amazing the SD amps are beautiful, do rated power and their subs are solid they definitely resurrected themselves with their newer stuff. I heard a system recently that had two 12" R3's on a Ti1500.1 and PG mids/highs on a SD500.4 and I was rather impressed.

  7. So I found the culprit for my leaking trunk there is a tear in the rubber surround between the trunk and the lower rear window. I tried duct tape and electrical tape and that didn't stop it so now I bring the question to the forum. Any help would be appreciated I need to get this done because it has not only halted my build but cost me an amp in the process.

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