Jump to content

KenC210

Members
  • Posts

    1227
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by KenC210

  1. If the man is having fun then let him... Obviously he don't give a fuck what anyone else is thinking of him as he drives through salt water... He just cares that it's fun... Alot people say that having an extreme aftermarket stereo is stupid... but do ya'll care? I know i don't cause i have fun running wires and listening to my music...

    AMEN to this ^^^ i know i catch a lot of slack for my stuff i hook up... also thought this short vid was pretty cool and seemed fun

  2. I've read all of your posts, and youre really overthinking a lot of this. What are the impedances of the tweeters you're choosing, and the mid drivers(8")? That will determine what power you are getting from the amp. And just a little FYI, that amp CAN actually put out more than 400WRMS. Fosgate amps do more than rated.

    *Edit-You want to run your soundstage in STEREO because mono won't have any left to right differences. It won't give you the true sound in the way it was intended to be heard.

    Yes i know your right i am over thinking this i just want to get it right cause im not sure. All sppeakers are at an 8 ohm load

    This. Your best bet is to get a 2 channel amp that does close to 200 watts RMS each channel. If im reading it right, you will have 2 speakers per channel. all speakers are 8 ohms and running the two speakers in parallel cuts the ohm load in half, 4 ohms. look in to Soundigitals new 250.2. it does 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms. just my two cents.

    Sounds good so i decided i will go ahead and get a 2 channel... i will look into that sound digital

    want my advice? ditch the "bass blockers" and get a real passive x-over.

    you see those "bass blockers" are a simple 6db per octave passive crossover that 1. can handle very little power (as they were designed for HU power) and 2. do very little in the way of protecting your tweeters

    say your tweet can play down to 3k hz at a 24db per octave id feel safe putting my high pass right at 3k

    for a 6db per octave id want it set more at 6k and even then it may be a little iffy

    i like 18 db and up x-overs

    as for your other questions good luck

    Ok so i will go ahead and ditch the bass blockers... and on the passive cross over would something like this>>> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33608_Audiobahn-ASX02J.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle or do you mean something like this>> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23146_Power-Acoustik-C-3184.html Just references not the real products im looking at

  3. so the amp i most likely will consider is http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_675FRP4001/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P400-1.html?ssi=0&tp=13643&nvpair=AG_Number_of_Channels%7cFFMono_Subwoofer&tab=detailed_info its factory refurbished and i have a 75 discount card. but however what i plan on running are 2 selenium tweeters rated 100wrms and 2 selenium 8" rated 150wrms. so if there are any options on amps you guys would like to refer im open to all options.

  4. From experience, those little built in crossover s can blow up if too much low frequency power is sent to them.

    About how much low frequency have you put to some of them?

    ALSO, do you lose STEREO option with a mono amp?

    Not sure, but how much of an importance is it to be in the stereo option be?

    Also, does anyone know if the rms is added together cuz im getting mixed info. And if the amp is rated 500wrms would it be divided through out the speakers? EX. 5 100wrms speaker plugged into a 500wrms mono amp would then each speaker get around the same power of 100wrms.

    I think generally speaking if each speaker is in the same sqft box and wired all the same then each speaker would get about the same amount of power, then again im not sure

  5. never go by what the amp says its MAX power is, RMS is your true power thats going to your speakers, subs etc. and tell my what that picture was so I can get a sense ofwhat yourtalking about.. the computer at my work wont let me see it.

    I know that i only go by the rms i am just wondering if more than 1 speaker is wired together does the rms get added together. and my picture posted is of a 2channel amp with 2 svc 8ohm tweeters on each channel a total of 4 tweeters (wired at 4ohm load) 70wrms each tweeter and 2 8" midbass svc 8 ohm (wired to 4ohm load)bridged between the 2 channels 150wrms each midbass speaker. Or my first picture posted is of 2 svc 8ohm tweeters 100wrms each tweeter and 2 svc 8ohm midbass speakers 150wrms each midbass all wired down to a 2ohm load in a mono amp that could have a frequency response of 20-20000hz

    also, wiring like that will change the crossover points if you are using a passive crossover. raise the impedance, lower the crossover point, lower the impedance, raise the crossover point.

    yes i am using passive crossovers i think they are called that anyways. Im talking about the little cylinder capacitors with the 2 wire points on the ends, or some of the stinger products. So if i wire the tweeters as shown in pic 2 i would use the crossover points at the wire connection where it meets pos to pos then wires to amp? And i would use the proper crossover to block frequency points from a 4ohm load? EX. 0-600hz@ 4ohm. And what about if use the first option where i got all speaker wired at the 2ohm load on a mono block, where would i put the crossover on the tweeters and what ohm load would i use to calculate the crossover point?

  6. IIRC, if you wire two speakers in parallel, you dont increase the RMS of the speaker, the ohm load to the amp increases the wattage that goes to the said speakers.. If i missed that some one already said that, my bad.. just trying to lend some helpful advice.

    Thats some of what i wanted to know... so the RMS will not change with the speakers just the max power?

    edit: just wondering cuz everything i have looked up states the max power.

  7. i have been looking around and i have seen some amps to allow the frequency response to be 20-20000hz http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Mono-Car-Amplifier/Rockford-Fosgate-P400-1-Punch-Series-400-Watt-RMS-Mono-Block-Amplifier-Car-Amp/P400-1.aspx just as an example. This is why i was wondering. also if i was to use a 2 channel amp and get 4 tweeters that are capable of handling 70wrms and i get 4 of them and each one is 8ohm load and wired together for a 4ohm load and they are in each channel and i have the midbass bridged how would that work?

    edit: also what about the little capacitors on the tweeters how would they work in this situation? Also if i use a bass blocker that blocks 0-400hz @ 4ohm's would i see it to block 0-200hz @ 8ohm's or 0-800hz @ 2ohm's?

  8. Speakerset.jpg

    This is more of an example of what i am trying to do. So now i know there is a total of 500wrms. Would i be able to wire it something like this? Could i do the 500wrms or should i do 400wrms? Any suggestions? Also if i use a bass blocker that blocks 0-400hz @ 4ohm's would i see it to block 0-200hz @ 8ohm's or 0-800hz @ 2ohm's? I may be making this more difficult than it really is but i just want to get this right.

  9. Ok so i answered my own question with some other research...

    http://www.usspeaker.com/speaker%20wiring-1.htm Parallel Wiring - Speakers of equal impedances you divide the impedance value by the number of speakers. To determine the wattage you add the wattage of the speakers together.

    If you wire (4) 16 ohm speakers in parallel you'd have a 4 ohm cabinet. (2) 16 ohm speakers in parallel would give you an 8 ohm cabinet. If you were using (4) 100 watts speakers you'd have 400 watts power handling. If you were using (2) 100 watt speakers you'd have 200 watts power handling.

    So know what i need help with is if i have 4 speakers and 2 are 150wrms and the other 2 are 100wrms would i be able to run 500wrms if they were all the same ohm load and wired in parallel to have a 2ohm load then wired into a mono amp? sorry if its confusing i just would like to do things right.

  10. I plan on running it with the car off sometimes (like when waiting for someone w/ the volume down). Isnt it also possible to just ground the 2nd battery and run the power wire to the monoblock?

    In parallel as everyone is suggesting is a better idea. No need for the isolator anyway especially if the 4 channel is going to still be connected to the starting battery. You will still end up draining both batteries if the car is off. I had this same question before also and totally went against using the isolator.

  11. So when i put the second battery in the cargo should i have a run from the alt to each battery or just to the front one?

    alt to front batt (in 1/0 gauge) then a run of 1/0 from front batt to back batt. for grounding, you can run another 1/0 run from front batt - to back batt -, OR you can just take a short piece of 1/0 from back batt - to frame (paint sanded off so its nice shiny metal)

    edit: i hope to god you have the big 3 done also

    big 3 as been done before i put audio in it... was just curious cuz i seen it both ways just wasnt sure if one ways better than the other

    edit: yes 1/0 is all would use... bigger is better i have always seen

×
×
  • Create New...