zx10intn
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Posts posted by zx10intn
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Cool, thanks for all the information guys. I run a sundown 3000 as my sub amp so I'll play around with it over the next couple of weeks to see what I can get away with
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Thanks ray, is it only the subwoofer amp or all amps?
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ok, so i have never competed at an event before, although i have attended a few. in about 3 weeks there is an event about 10 miles from me that i think i want to go to(mostly just to see where im at, no hopes of winning anything yet), and im mostly curious about what class ill be put in. i have read through the rulebook and think i know, but looking for some expereinced advice. i have 2 runs of 1/0 to the rear, each having a 300 amp fuse. i have 2 totals batteries, the main kinetik 1800 and a 2400 in the rear. i run 2 dd 3512's in a ported box that fires up through the rear deck. any and all help is appreciated
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anyway you order from though, as i understand it, you will be waiting a few weeks on your item
Is everyone still pretty backed up? Damn, that's kinda why I waited a lil while to get one, oh well. Gotta have it!
yea, demand exceeded their expectations. but orders are going out in order they are received, so better go ahead and get in line
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there are a couple places i know of, wccaraudio.com and ray from audio innovations i believe takes orders but im sure there are more. anyway you order from though, as i understand it, you will be waiting a few weeks on your item
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did you read the instructions?
by saying hes trying to rca method now, that would be a no haha
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I have like 4 salvage yards within 30mins drive so I'm gonna start hitting them up asap.March was also the cheapest I found but 350 compared to 50 doesnt seem so cheap after all.
exactly. the yards will have dozens and dozens of them, vans, trucks, cars, they all had them so it will be no challenge finding them
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Actually I have two cars with a v-belt setup my 69 elco and my 84 cutlass. I always thought my only option was to go aftermarket so you know Im freaking happy you posted this bro.
Thanks again!
both are easy swaps, just make sure to get pulleys off a small block for a small block and a big block for a big block, they are slightly different from each other. the cheapest system i found for swapping out all the pulleys and belts was a march performance kit, came with crank, water pump, alternator and power steering pulley, $349, a little steep considering the v-belt system works fine for power steering, its just turning these high output alts that it cant keep up with.
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Great write up man! I had thought the most you could do on a v was like 140-160 so didn't someone there say something about it before you bought it (they know this)? I've known should I ever want to move the system in my old 61 Deville (390) I would have to swap the pulley, but that isn't something that comes in a manual.
On a side note, now that you have the charging system sorted where in the FAWK are the bass videos?
the bass videos are about to be taken, like 10 minutes haha. and yes, they told me 180 was really the max, but hey, im stubborn LOL and thought i could have a buddy make up an idler pulley tensioner and blah blah, didnt work out. plus, for under $50, its all gm parts and the best and most cost effective way to DIY. thats why i say plan ahead, if you have a v-belt system on a pre 84 gm, order your alt with the 5 groove pulley and save the cost of buying the additional pulley as well
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if you are planning on running a big alt and have an older style all v-belt chevy motor like mine, its a must bro, too effective and easy an upgrade to pass up.
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I AM NOT A MECHANIC, SO IF I CAN DO IT, SO CAN YOU IF YOU THINK IT WOULD BE BENEFICIAL TO YOU
A little background before I get into the write up. I have a 69 chevelle with a sbc 400 that I put a system in. I realized before I started the build that the stock 42 amp alternator was not going to cut it, so I gave Mechman a call to see what we could come up with. After a few discussions with Eric and Matt as well as some internet research on what could be done, I wound up ordering a 250 amp large case CS-144 alternator from Mechman. Initially I thought all was well, until I began putting a load onto the alternator at 2000 rpms and realized that the v-belt setup that my alternator ran on slipped like crazy under load and was not going to cut it for this high of an amperage alternator. After doing some research, I realized that I had relatively few options... 1) do a full serpentine swap off a similar motor(time consuming and can be very expensive), 2)order pullies from a company like march performance or similar that convert your v-belt style over to a flat, ribbed style belt(cheapest I found was $350), or 3)find a hybrid v-belt/flat belt pulley system on an existing car that fit my needs.
I chose option 3, mostly because of the cost and the fact that my power steering running off a v-belt was fine and not a problem, and after some more internet research and asking a few knowledgeable mechanic friends, I determined that I needed the pulleys from an 84-86 small block(or big block if thats what you have), so I set out to my local pull-a-part junk yard on a hunt. I found what I needed on an 86 c/k series chevy truck with a 305, but if you have a big block look for a suburban with a 454 or a heavy duty 2500 series or higher truck and you will find what you need, take both the water pump and crank pulleys. Took all of 10 minutes to take both pulleys off, and cost me $11, a far cry from the $350 kit I found.
old v-belt pulleys on most pre 84 general motors engines
after going to the junk yard and find the correct pulleys for either your bbc or sbc, they should resemble these... notice the combination system vs the old style v-belt system
Crank pulley
water pump pulley
start off by removing the fan and pulley from the water pump, there are (4) 1/2" bolts holding it on, simply take them off and the fan(if mechanical like mine) and pulley will come right off
next, take the old crank pulley off. i didnt get a picture but there are (3) 9/16" bolts holding it in around the sides and (1) 5/8" bolts in the center. after taking them off the pulley will come right off.
reverse this process to install the pulleys, and you will see the flat style belt grooves now line up perfectly
if you did like I did and orignally ordered your alt with a v-belt pulley, this will need to be switch to a 5 groove style. I told Eric what I was doing and they rushed my out a billet aluminum 5 groove pulley. If you have a v-belt and have not ordered yet, I highly recommend you go with the 5 groove initially and take the time to do this simple swap, its well worth your time.
Now, depending what style power steering(if equipped) pump you have, your belts may not be the exact same as these, but when pulling my pulleys off at the junk yard, i took the old belts also as I knew they would fit and I took them to O'Reilly and got two new belts, $37.
All in all, if you have a bbc or sbc, its well worth the 2 hours of work and appx $50 for this swap. My alternator now runs on the 5 groove belt, has no slipping issues at all and puts out more at idle thanks to the overdrive billet pulley.
Feel free to ask any questions if you want to know more information, this is my first write up and im certain I left a few things out, but all in all, very affordable solution for us in the v-belt chevy world.
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got it on! huge difference in idle charging, thanks again.
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HUGE shout out to Eric for the ridiculous fast shipping on this. 48mm billet aluminum pulley and shes beautiful! just another reason im a mechman customer forever. off to my buddies shop for him to rattle-gun it on
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Just wire + from the front batt to + on the rear batt with 1/0, then ground the second batt in the rear. Fuseholders on both ends of the wire and you'll be good to go
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I voted for her even before seeing this thread because she is a cool chick that likes audio.
I would rather vote for her than an asshole with a better system than her, ppl have a different criteria for picking their favorite.
This is exactly why this is my last SOTM ever. Anyone that has paid any attention to SOTM knows I don't mind losing, I have been losing for over a year now (and usually by a lot). But a statement like this is a fucking slap in the face to those of us who bust our asses building our systems and participating in SOTM just to have someone vote for her because she is a girl that likes car audio.
I haven't competed yet in SOTM, but I completely agree with this statement. The contest is titled system of the month, although it seems like that is lost on most voters.
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if they make it in your size, i love my zooper zeon LTZ's
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here we go again, lol, comes down tp budget and preference really. most prefer mdf due to its cheaper and performs well, but birch gains about 30% in weight savings and usually about 40% more expensive.
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when while looking at a new vehicle, space for system in your top 3 considerations
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i think my chevelle would be a good candidate for this... ill get a vid done over the weekend and send it your way!
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For the mesh type cover i'm sure they used lol
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greatest guys in the world to work with right here, called them up and told them about the faulty pulley, immediately sent one out to me no questions asked.
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Use a router and route out an area the size of the rod so it's countersunk into the wood, then predrill and screw it through the bottom and you will be good to go
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so i was running the car at idle in my garage to charge my batts since i was about to hook up the HU and finally be able to play it. suddenly, i heard a clanking noise(something hitting the ground) so i immediately cut the motor off and went to see what was the issue. this is what i found...
looks like the pulley either broke straight off in a clean manner or separated at the point that its pressed together(not sure how they are made)
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I know i'm in the minority, but i only use my router for the same things you mentioned, and I just bought a cheap ryobi at hd. 20+ boxes and still going strong.
gota love youtube kids
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
lmao thats right, go straight to the momma jokes