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Loslam

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Posts posted by Loslam

  1. Another option is to use a 12v amp (if you have a spare or extra) and get a 12v power supply or converter for in the house

    I do have another amp.. hmm. Link meh Caleb!?

    I'm having a harder time than I thought finding a cheap converter, but there are many options for finding 12v. Any old computer desktops laying around you don't use have a 12v power supply, usually 10-15 amps. You could also bring in a car battery just keep it charged up lol.

    Pricey, but Stinger makes 40, 60 and 70 amp 12v power supplies that are good:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SPS40-40-AMP-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-CAR-STEREO-POWER-SUPPLY-CHARGER-/330768509336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0356e998

  2. i would look into a mid length or full length header,the biggest issue with these trucks is the 1 7/8" down pipes off the manifolds.

    i tried shorties on mine and noticied a little better performance. i now have doug thorely tri-y's,with 2.5" downpipes into a universal y-pipe(2.5" in/3" single out)

    into a highflow cat with a 14" magnaflow muffler with it dumped right after the cab. the performance now is quite noticable down low(torque).

    Thanks for the advice. I would agree with you on long tubes but money is kinda tight these days, and I have to start saving up for my college meals come this fall lol.

    Still deciding at this point, but if there are any issues in terms of fitting just about anything will be fixed with a welder.

    I already have true duals but there are so many leaks it sounds pretty bad at idle. Just gonna redo 2.5 duals all the way back and new hi-flow cats

    Any knowledge on cams and how much lift I can have with the vortec?

  3. At some point this summer I'm gonna do a cam, shorty headers, another tune, and redo exhaust with new cats and h pipe. I'm trying to not sink a lot of money into it.

    I know the 'you get what you pay for' rule of thumb but sometimes it has its grey areas. Name brand headers are pretty expensive over knock offs, so I was wondering if these from ebay are decent or not?

    Minor fitting or issues I think wouldn't cause a problem since I'll be redoing the exhaust header-back anyway.

    Stainless steel

    http://www.ebay.com/...7cda397&vxp=mtr

    or

    http://www.ebay.com/...629308327663346

  4. Also rather then start a new thread when the time comes, roughly how big should my box for the 15" be when i come to make it? Torres is saying the current cubic foot is either 1.61 or 1.39 not sure which one it is, what should an average 15" be happy with?

    Around 3.5-4.5 cubes net depending on power and the woofer

  5. I'm at the end of my sophomore year of mechanical engineering at UNC Charlotte and we were given basically a month to build a robot to do a certain task.

    The task here is to transport 1 lb fuel rods from point A to point B and back to point A.

    We machined a lot of the car from aluminum and the rest was rapid prototype.

    Everything is powered by 2 AA batteries on the car (the 2 AA batteries in remote simply activate relays)

    The track is at a 23 degree slope

    It ain't much but we designed and built it, it works, and we're proud enough to share it lol

    I'm the driver :D

  6. You can

    1. Take off alternator and the bracket holding it, and clean off the metal contacts to engine block

    2. Moar wire

    3. Moar grounds to engine block or alternator/bracket

    Edit:

    When I put a new crate motor in my truck I took off the alt bracket and painted it black and it covered the metal where the bracket connects to engine block.

    I removed it again and cleaned the paint off and got a nice clean metal finish and just that along with my current wiring jumped me from 14.6 to 14.9v

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