Loslam

Nice. Yes that one chamber muffler will be loud. And if you're dumping under cab you'll feel the rumble more too, good stuff Just hope you don't drive it every day or the drone will get old

The biggest is the 70 amp, however you can parallel them. Say you need 140 amps, buy two 70 amps and wire together

I do have another amp.. hmm. Link meh Caleb!? I'm having a harder time than I thought finding a cheap converter, but there are many options for finding 12v. Any old computer desktops laying around you don't use have a 12v power supply, usually 10-15 amps. You could also bring in a car battery just keep it charged up lol. Pricey, but Stinger makes 40, 60 and 70 amp 12v power supplies that are good: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STINGER-SPS40-40-AMP-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-CAR-STEREO-POWER-SUPPLY-CHARGER-/330768509336?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d0356e998

Another option is to use a 12v amp (if you have a spare or extra) and get a 12v power supply or converter for in the house

I don't know about the quality, but this would be what you'd need to get instead of the one you currently have: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

From what I see, that's only an AC clamp meter. Your alternator does DC power

You can find good deals, yes, but copper is copper and true rated wire isn't going to be 'cheap'

No, do 4 gauge at least

For the price Hifonics isn't a terrible choice. You can find a brz1200 for around $150 new if you look hard enough

Opinions, which one? http://www.ebay.com/...953a1de&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...=item2ebec3d087 This is the current setup, but paint can only do so much: Also looking for a grill, any choices there anyone?? Or should I attempt to paint the whole thing, this one is looking real nice...

Gonna do this: http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?6544-Writeup-Installing-5-7-TBI-headers-on-5-7-Vortec with these LTs: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-2462HKR/ And have pcmforless tune out my post cat sensors and my egr. Just for anyone wanting to gain knowledge

Worth a shot, looking for a vcm. Used, new, whatever you got as long as it's not too damaged and works properly. Must be the xs vcm for the 4-pin oval type GM plugs, and come with the wiring harness as well. Pretty much this: http://www.jegs.com/...oductId=1503652 Dunno when they'll ever be back in stock. Thanks

True, but not stainless steel.

Wondering if any updates as well, are they back in stock on any sites? Needing one for a GM 4 pin oval plug

Thanks for the advice. I would agree with you on long tubes but money is kinda tight these days, and I have to start saving up for my college meals come this fall lol. Still deciding at this point, but if there are any issues in terms of fitting just about anything will be fixed with a welder. I already have true duals but there are so many leaks it sounds pretty bad at idle. Just gonna redo 2.5 duals all the way back and new hi-flow cats Any knowledge on cams and how much lift I can have with the vortec?

At some point this summer I'm gonna do a cam, shorty headers, another tune, and redo exhaust with new cats and h pipe. I'm trying to not sink a lot of money into it. I know the 'you get what you pay for' rule of thumb but sometimes it has its grey areas. Name brand headers are pretty expensive over knock offs, so I was wondering if these from ebay are decent or not? Minor fitting or issues I think wouldn't cause a problem since I'll be redoing the exhaust header-back anyway. Stainless steel http://www.ebay.com/...7cda397&vxp=mtr or http://www.ebay.com/...629308327663346

That is the same dimension. ^.^

Around 3.5-4.5 cubes net depending on power and the woofer

Imo it's not worth the time, effort, and/or money to fix that box Just take a day and build your own ported. Easy, cheap, experience Good luck $40ish bucks will get it done

I'm at the end of my sophomore year of mechanical engineering at UNC Charlotte and we were given basically a month to build a robot to do a certain task. The task here is to transport 1 lb fuel rods from point A to point B and back to point A. We machined a lot of the car from aluminum and the rest was rapid prototype. Everything is powered by 2 AA batteries on the car (the 2 AA batteries in remote simply activate relays) The track is at a 23 degree slope It ain't much but we designed and built it, it works, and we're proud enough to share it lol I'm the driver

I'd say this topic belongs here Let's say I bought a spray gun to do my painting (rather than rattle cans) that operates say from 30-35 psi. How would I go about regulating my big air compressor/tank to limit the pressure there? I've googled a couple different ways but I'm looking for the simplest or cheapest way Thanks

You can 1. Take off alternator and the bracket holding it, and clean off the metal contacts to engine block 2. Moar wire 3. Moar grounds to engine block or alternator/bracket Edit: When I put a new crate motor in my truck I took off the alt bracket and painted it black and it covered the metal where the bracket connects to engine block. I removed it again and cleaned the paint off and got a nice clean metal finish and just that along with my current wiring jumped me from 14.6 to 14.9v

Ninja

Off subject of thread but is there any big difference in II vs III? Seeing it goes I, II, III and III is most expensive I normally always get III simply because it makes me feel better on the inside lol But everyone is always saying II