[Need help asap!!!! Wats my box tuned to?]

It gives 24Hz maybe 25Hz with bracing?

Damn that's low , he lied and said it was 35hz. Can you tell me how cubes each sub gets and wat to cut the port down to tune it to 33 hz.

There are too many errors to easily fix it. I'd suggest making your own box and getting some experience along the way bro

(too many cubes, not enough port area, port is too long into box)

[2 xp3000 for 5k]

First go with OFC 1/0 and do at least two runs of both pos and neg. or at least 2 grounds from rear batteries to frame not chassis.

[Hifonics BXi 1210D how much is this really putting out?]

just wondering if this will push my l7 pretty good

Yes it will do you fine

[Caps..]

You're drawing power from power you already have.

There is no addition of power there.

Vs another battery/alternator now there is a change in energy/power

[Infinity Kappas and DD-1 Issue]

Is the hum only with your car on?

Could be engine noise, which would only be when car is on and the hum changes via gas pedal

That is caused by a ground in the wrong place or RCAs being too close to power/ground wires

[what alt to buy and who from]

If the time it takes to get your alt isn't a big factor, DC Power makes good quality alts

Typically a few pennies more but worth it

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

[BOX Help for beginner]

Just get a tape measure out and find some dimensions to fit where you want, and here is a great box tuning calculator.

Pretty simple to figure out and use

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator/

[need help truck not running]

By bogging out and not starting, do you think it feels or sounds like it's getting too much gas to the point it's flooding?

If so then that could be something as simple as a bad sensor somewhere, notorious on these vehicles...check your coolant temp sensor, O2 sensors and MAF sensor

If they're bad it's telling the computer to richen or lean the hell out of your fuel which would explain your problems

ex: bad coolant temp sensor saying it's -40 degrees -> tells pcm MOAR FUEL -> dies at idle

[4th Order Bandpass for 2 18s]

Don't question ray. Just build it and be happy.

That's what I plan on lol

[4th Order Bandpass for 2 18s]

5 sealed total

And 14 ported

With 11 sqin per.

Tune to 37

So like this for the ported?

[4th Order Bandpass for 2 18s]

5 sealed total

And 14 ported

With 11 sqin per.

Tune to 37

Thanks for the help,

Wouldn't tuning to 37 be overkill almost for a 4th order on the lows?

Not doubting just questioning.

And 5 sealed total, so 2.5ish per 18 or 5 in common chamber?

So if this is braced well would this rough design work? Sorry for so many questions lol. many questions -> making the best from one build

[4th Order Bandpass for 2 18s]

Hey guys, I currently have a ported box for two HDC3 18s tuned to 34 hz and it pounds, but we all know you're never done and we all have to be in the middle of a build....

So I decided I want to try my luck at a 4th order bandpass for the first time and see how the box does.

I've heard nothing but great things from 4th orders along with the low end response and efficiency.

I want it to be a low monster, and it will be going in the back of my extended cab 97 silverado.

Here are some pictures just roughly making an idea of IF I have enough room and IF this box looks fine

Let me know if this idea of a box would work, or any other ideas for me....

Thanks!

Currently around 3ish cubes each sealed and a 12.5ish common chamber ported, 200 sq inches of port and 45 hz

Sealed view:

Full view:

Full view 2:

[anybody know of any brand new 5.7 vortecs... $1000 budget]

edit:

I'm a noob and didn't see you've already went your route

Sorry for the post bump

[glass pack or what kind of muffler]

what size does the jeep have already? 2.5ish?. for right now all i can really afford to do is the muffler. it already has a few small holes in it so i wanna try and get it replaced before it rusts out more

If not 2.5 it will be at least around there, if it is just the stock single pipe. Go measure it or just buy a 2.5 in/out muffler. If you have a little experience welding you can pretty easily weld 2.25 to 2.5, or just buy an adapter pipe from local autozone/advanced and then weld

And I agree with the flowmaster 44 series. Anything that is meant to be close to straight pipes(glasspack, 1 chamber mufflers, etc) won't sound all that mean with anything except a V8, it'll be a little ricey sounding imo.

Good luck with whichever muffler

[what are some good places to ground?]

im only going to be running a 600 watt 6 channel for a while. i haven't done the big three yet but i hope i can in about a month or two. i don't think i will have enough to go to my frame seeing as i only have 3 feet of wire to work with.

now the challenge will be finding a spot that isnt directly above my gas tank

Well a 600 watt 6 channel sounds to me like 100-200 rms. Which isn't pulling much at all. So just find a place on the chassis, sand it off and tap a bolt/nut or screw.

With that much power you don't really need to do big 3, but it's always there for future builds/upgrades.

[what are some good places to ground?]

i need some advice on what to ground to in my 2000 jeep cherokee. my seat dosent have brackets, it just has two hinges and im not sure how they attach. i dont have enough wire to reach my spare tire holder, and i dont think there is really anything else besides the sheet metal on the body. would it be a good enough to ground to the body?

How much power is your system pulling? I'd try to get enough wire to make it to a good clean frame ground, but if not a sanded off body/chassis ground would work.

Then just make sure your big 3 is done and a body/chassis ground is to the engine block under the hood.