osixfrontier

nah they suck sell them to me...........please pm price shipped to 96782 hawaii......all 4 thaks....

if your looking for ore than 1 18 then ssd line is the only line i recomend....personally with that amp id get a fi q and stick it in 6 cubes after all displacement tune it to 28hz go with 84 square inches of port and have anice day...

you say you drained the old fuel.....how did you drain it by dropping the tank? did you put enuff gass in theirfor the pump to be picking any fuel up....id cylce the key 10-15 times then try to start it.... inbetween the pump and the throttle body only has the filter.....

why would he check for fuel pressure if the starter just clicks...now if the car cranked and didnt start yes fuel pressure but it doesnt even crank..that leads to and electrical problem sisnce it clicks the selonid engages 1 of 3 things 1 seized motor....2 seized starter and 3 dead battery...first id try to turn the motor by hand....then if it turns id check battery voltage....if both are good and you still got a click give the starter a good tap while someone holds the key....

your going to go for spl and only use 2200 watts......your really not going to get everything outa those subs.....but whatever...

i would actually suggest the aq3500 over the 2200......and some battery and alt...

thi vid is a single 10 inch fi bl runnin off of a dd z1 at .7 ohms and 1 kinetik 2400 and 1 kinetik 1400...meter a 139.8 legal in the dash and i ran it like this for about 6 months every day before i put the sub in my girls car off of 1500 watts...trust me a bl will take the power...before that the sub was ran off of a t20001 bd for almost a year... then it was reconed to the newer version due to tinsle breaking... http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=38881320

personally id run 1 per.... my bl took my z1 perty good....so i think the 2200 which actually does about 2500 is perfection for one...

no its who has the most valueable pile of shit...

i got an 800 dollar pile of shit ass car...and a big expensive system.....i d guess about 4g's msrp...it does really close to 150 sealed at the dash...but it gets 34miles to the gallon with about 500 pounds of sounds...but i work on base and i park my car in the back of house next to my dog and my room...so im not worried too much only when i go to like walmart and shit liike that...

if you like kicker get rid of those crap ass l7's and grab some crap ass solox's.....

actually its the iac thanks for your concern....but im gonna replace that motor with a better one after the up coming comps....one this weekend and another in novenber..

yeah they are sx's.......i had 2 12's before sx's as well and my side window poped out and broke....so i got a nother one but it was from an 88 so the screws didnt line up...so i used caulking but forgot to check if it was clear before i applied it....then my windshiled started to leak water....so again i caulke it...i dont care though its my work car...still gets 30mpg....

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=42988873 http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoID=42988448 before i go the alt in it did a 147.2 at 38 hz with voltage drop to low 12's so ill meter again this weekend with 1 more batt and the ho alt....that is sealed at the dash.....

well we came out with internal specs of 8.0x cubes after port nd woofer displacement ad bracing double baffled with 16 sq in of port per.....gonna go to home depot on sunday and pick up some supllies ad wal mart and get some el cheapo truck liner for the finish.....whowee then on to the kia build while my alt gets builted...

no my box is tuned to 35 hz for the 10 but my car peaks at 43 hz..... i really want it to play music.....how do i make a slot ported box subs forward port back...?...im gonna do 34hz as recomended by RE fo the 15's......but i dot like useing aero ports i ve seen the braks in big applications...

hi every one im more of an sql guy but seeing as a comp is coming up i thought id start this for suggestions and feed back..... I plan on entering 2 car in a local comp in hawaii.. we meter doors closed at the windshield 4 inches up 10 inches over sealed. in atest sesion i hit a 139.6 at 43 hz with a fi bl 10 of a z1 at about half its power as i was just testing. this is in a 89 civic hatch with 1400 and 2400 kinetik and i plan to add another 2400 and a ho alt all big three done plus im upgrading to 4/0 when my alt arrives....just cuz i get it for freee... the plan is to throw that sub into my girls car which is a 2008 kia spectra...im going to us a us amps xt4000d and for electricla im gonna use a 1200 upfront and a 1400 next to the amp....for us that is class a i hope to do a 140 because im changing the box to a box that has done a 142 in my friends car with the 10 inch bl so im opeing for a 140 more and im happy that should get me a 3rd place trophy in class a and in my car i have 2 15inch re sx's on the way and i plan to run them off add z1 at 1 ohm but im gonna test with a us amps ax3200de to see if there is a gain and if so i may buy it... but i hear that they are almost the same board so we will see... but along with that im gonna run a 3way active door setup so i can battle doors open if it comes to that .....i plan on sticking 2 re 8's and a set off re 6.5 comnets in the doors running off a xt800.4 and xt800.2 so im hoping it will kinda keep up with the 15's... for the design of the box for hte 15's im thinking pf going subs up port back 8 cubes after sub and port displacement with 16 square inches per... 45'd and doubled up top using 3/4 inch mdf.... that in hawaii is gonna be class d which we average 148+ in that class so i think i have a fighters chance...i have deadend my roof and hatch and have sealed all my windows except the drivers and [passengers with silicone... so it souns really good as far as no rattle.. i hope to hit 148+ so i dont look stupid but i also plan on beiang one of the few that can open my door and subout the venue. any pointers you folks can give....or any feed back on my year of hatch on what works best so far i ve only talked to one person who has owned a car like mines and he did a 154 ac mike with 2 15 inch lightning storms off of 2 jbl1200.1's......it was about 148 termlab so im hoping for atleast that maybe more seing as how i have about 400 more watts....i believe that the z1 in under rated....a direct swap from the saz3000d to the z1 gained me 1full db wiht the exact sae setu same electrical everything......im not looking to change brands of equiptment only may be swapping the fi 10 for 2 re 8's but only after i do some testing with the termlab...but can people tell me thier experiences with the z1 esides the frying....has anyone done reactive load scope testings....is the ax3200de any better? is sub up port back the best possible box as far a loud ? i dont wanna wall it...i want it to be decently loud and decent on the meter.... aloha, gary

ive already had a btl and i had it running off a saz 3000d....i feel that from my experience 3000 is perfect for one fully loaded btl..so off of the z1 wich i beleive to be a bit underated a sigle btl is the most appropriate for the application......or seeing as how my z1 over powers the sx's 3 12's would do also and after this comp i plan on quiting as gas is too expensive to keep my blazer......

what about them............im good electrically i have very little voltage drop at full throttle..(i have big 3.....3 batts and ho alt)..my question is on subs and nothing more......i just torn between 3 12's and 1 18....i would like to be one of the first to have the new btl in hawaii....seeing as how i was the first for the second design btl.....

okay we have a comp a few months away wich will give me ample time to rebuild..........i have a ddz1 amp...and my blazer is an old rust bucket from the rear so the only way i have a chance at a decent nmber is to wall it now i cant decide weather to wall it with 3 12's (re sx's) and the load will be at .7 but after box rise imhoping higher to not damage the amp as they are not the most reliable amps in the world....or sell the re's (i have 2 already) and wall a single new btl.......now im not only walling for a high numer i wanna wall it and still have it sound musical.... im thinking ima tune it to 38.....i already have owned the old btl and was happy alsy i have owned the q and was happay again............ plus on a side note i wanna go back to fi..... so 1 18btl walled or 3 12 re sx's walled............either way still tuned to 38 and gonna run off of the z1....... thanks for any input......and i dont care for the sound of dd so those are out of the picture...

okay im just getting into comepeting and have had a box built for me that didnt work it looken fine but it had low out put it was tuned to 33 hz but was very low on the level of output.....me and my friend came to the conclusion that the sound wasnt bouncing around inside and was just coming rite outa the port...well now i have a box that works but i was wondering generally how far from the port should the sub be? can i make the port run under the sub? how much port is too much port? i have a loaded btl and a saz 3000d i hit 142 db sealed at the dash at 37hz my box is tuned to 32hz......what can i do with what i have to get higher numbers? it is in a frontier king cab 2006......sub up port up.... will i get better numbers sub up port to the driver side....can some one help me out?