CleanSierra
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Posts posted by CleanSierra
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With quality 1/0 or 2/0, you'll only likely need one run if it's OFC. You didn't mention how big of an alt you're going with , but if you can only supply 200-250A of current, a single run of quality OFC should be sufficient.
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Hope you get this straightened out. It looks like your drill hopped and you went through the surround. I've done it on mids in driver doors before, never a sub, but plenty of mids are currently resting in peace.
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Thanks Sierra! im still bouncing back and forth between 10s and 12s. I can give you my max internal dimensions, if that helps!
PM them to me. I can put the design in this main post if you'd like, but specifics would be good in PM.
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Zv4s will soak up a lot more power and have more authority I think. It's an 8 layer aluminum coil vs the 4 layer copper coil. The Zv4 also has the shorting ring for inductance which is a plus.
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I'll get you something later.
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I gotcha, sounds like you're wired perfectly from your description. If you checked impedance at the amp and got 1 ohm, that sounds good. Do you have pictures of your box?
And I'm sorry, I sort of read your original post wrong. You had mentioned that it was louder when you wired just one sub up at 2 ohms. That makes total sense, sorry I missed that.
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Out of phase would be my guess. What voice coils do you have, D2 or D4. You can only wire down to 1 ohm final at the amp if you have D4 coils. If you have D2s, you can wire at 2 ohms final or .5 ohms final load.
My guess is you have one sub wired in reverse when you swap wiring, causing it to sound weird, quiet, or different. You need to check a site like the12volt.com for the proper way to wire your subs.
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Touch the leads of the DMM together to find out the resistance between the leads.
Are you measuring the resistance of the coils with the sub magnet down, cone up, on a level surface?
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I thought it was a newly created FB profile. It seems to me the intentions must have always been to scam, looking at the situation.
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I saw the FB thread on this. It seemed premature at the point that I saw it to call scam. After reading this though, Jesus. Did he create a fake account on FB as well? I remember reading that the account was new and only a couple of days old. He az only charging $500 got the amp or something? Are we referring to the same situation?
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We'll add in the text descriptions some time during the next round of updates.
I think that will be really helpful. Keep up the good work.
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^^^I've pulled them all up in sketch to check everything and always have fun dissecting them.
I noticed the Zv4 12" compared to the X has more port and airspace than the same size sub. I thought that was cool to see.
Are you guys every going to post in a format that isn't Sketchup? That way someone unfamiliar or that doesn't have sketch can pull up the suggested enclosures to see suggested space, tuning, port, etc?
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I see your:
And I raise you a:
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Do you have ANY idea what it will take to do a 160, let alone a 165, let alone on music?
Do you have any pics of a the build that hit the 153? I'm assuming this was on a burp right? Which vehicle was the did you own when you did the 153?
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DB-r repairs the Sundowns.
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You may have an amp that's got a problem then.
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Bad ground would be where I point the first finger. Check ALL connections. Are any able to wiggle? Is the ground to a frame? Seat bolt? Sanded to bare metal?
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It's listed at 2.35" on their site. That should be damn accurate....
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75-100" of port, 4 cubes minimum(I'd do about 5-6 on rated power) and tuning to around 30 Hz is what is recommended for that sub. Tuning is preference, tune where you want.
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I feel bad for you Martydmb, you've had a bad experience. You have a damaged amp in your possession, it sucks. You can fix this easily with the company you purchased it from. If you've lost confidence, then you have. I don't see the point in throwing Sundown on blast if they are perfectly willing to correct the situation. They corrected your other issue with the amp that didn't have quite the output you expected. It may not have been on the timetable you were happy with, but they did do it.
There are plenty other options to acquire new Sundown equipment, not only SSA. If anything, maybe you should stop doing business with that specific merchant due to customer service you find unacceptable. As far as the product not working the first time I have a question:
How did you set your gains with the SAZ3500D when you got the first one. You are referring to gain pot position and give no hint that you set the gain properly. You only say something like " I know that surely the gain pot shouldn't need to be blah blah blah". This doesn't indicate that you set the gain properly with a DD-1 or O-scope, which are the ONLY ways to properly match your HU voltage and amp signal voltage.
Again, I'm sorry for your bad experience, I wouldn't be happy either. What was your main purpose in creating the thread? If it was just to vent, I understand.
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What was wrong with getting htem from the DC site? Its right there. Holy shit.
The internet is a big, scary place N8
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Is there going to be a 2 or 4 channel for mids and highs? If so, most don't like high voltage like that and will burn up. So you'd almost need to have a 12V system, and a 16V stand alone system.
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What's the loudest you've hit to date? That would be a good starting point.
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I'll tune in for the MLK build.
sae 50.4 crossover for tweeters
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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Is it like the 100.4? My 100.4 had a button that you press down for 10X. Which effectively would multiply your crossover point from 400 to 4000 Hz. I'd have to check the manual, but I feel like your amp had this feature just like the big brother 100.4