CleanSierra
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Posts posted by CleanSierra
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If a blowthrough happens in the GMC, these will be my drivers of choice.
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I'm overkilling the piss out of my electrical. I'll be running 6 135aH batts on 3.5K for now to later upgrade to 7K down the line. Reserve is a good thing if you plan on running demos.
Cap bank if you want stiff voltage. Look up BlackNasty or SnowDrifter on here and check out their banks. Autocorrect almost changed banks to balls. That would have had quite a different meaning....
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I thought the 31s were rated at 110aH each? I think they are all needed for that amp.
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Do you like holding voltage? If so, then 3 Group 31s is not top much at all. That amp is a beast, and it's going to suck voltage. I'd do 2 runs of 1/0 OFC. Each line should be good for around 350A depending on length.
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I would also want more reserve. Add 2 more Group 31s.That box is big, tuning is high, and id want more electrical.
The general idea and choice in equipment sounds fierce though.
Where did you decide to run the cubic feet that you listed?
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8 cubes per 18 seems like a bunch for a Sundown driver. I'm not at all familiar with the very custom Nightshade V3 thought.
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Thank you. Now I need to stop slacking and get the other one shipped out to Florida tomorrow. I'll get you that box design tomorrow as well.
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If the terminal setup isn't an issue for you, get an S3400. Same battery, terminals are just different.
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I'll give $6 and a computer running Windows 98....
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Your problem is in your enclosure , go remove the subs and search for it in the box. Report results.
I'm just kidding, kinda. Your problem IS with your enclosure probably. You need one designed for your needs I believe. That's where the biggest gain likely to be noticed by you and give you what you're looking for.
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Shit's about to get real.
Great video and great tool.
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Run it at 2 ohms. If you want to overpower a driver, buy a driver that will handle more power. Don't start shrinking box size to compensate for overpowering, unless you like losing some low end output. Give rated power and proper airspace and port area for the driver. If it's not is loud enough, step up to a driver that handles more power.
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Lots of headunits have to be turned up a bit too get a detect signal light. I think you're fine and don't need to worry at all.
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Hey OP, quick question. I know you said you're having a hard time getting a signal at all from the HU. Are you running a ground loop isolator? If you are, that could be your problem and why you're not getting a signal.
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Say no to back seat boxes, yikes!.
I doubt you'll get any real design advice for this, as it is completely NOT ideal and will likely not sound very good at all. Get 2 12s, put them in the trunk where they belong. Orrr, buy two more XLs and wall the car.
Walling is not my honest suggestion, putting the subs in the proper location is. Back seat boxes are no good, and I'll just about guarantee you'd be louder out of the trunk(assuming seats fold down) with 2 12s of the same brand and model, vs 2 15s in an "on the seat" enclosure.
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I don't know if I ever left Feedback for my purchase from FOREVER ago. I bought a Fosgate T400-4 and it was packaged well, arrived perfectly and quickly. Would not hesitate to do business with again
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Which 4K amp do you have?
I say go with rated or up to 1500W per, if you're asking the question.
Welcome to the forum, nice subs btw.
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^^^ They're just not funny. I guess maybe because I don't eat cucumber sandwiches and drink Earl Grey......
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It looks like a Tundra to me.
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Except for the fact that there is a poi t of diminishing return from being so thick. It's happened more than once that someone does a super thick baffle and has issues keeping woofers together. That doesn't look like it's all a full baffle anyways. More like 3or 4 layers around the baffle in a trim
Yeah N8 is correct. It was 4 layers of 1" MDF. I'm not sure who decided that was needed for 4 DC Level 4s but that's what it got. The fiberglass around the baffle was done really well.
Thats the back of my head you see peaking into the port. The part that bothered me was that there was that monster port firing right at the tailgate(it's a mid 70s K5 Blazer), and there is literally 1-2" of clearance between the port and the gate. It surprisingly still sounded good, but tuning was unknown.
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Crap, I forgot to get you the port extension measurements. I just ran the numbers really quick and the piece going parallel with that box sides should 10" by the height listed. The extension that runs parallel with the back of the box is 18" by the internal box height as well which is 14.5". The total port length is 34" and is measured from the center of the port line.
I'M not sure if you got this built yet or not but let me know if you need anymore help.
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I guess I'll add the same comment to this one as I did the previous two:
WAIT TO BUY A SUB OR SUBS UNTIL YOU HAVE A CAR THAT'S YOURS IN THE DRIVEWAY.
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Id choose the two 6" port option for(usually) ease of tuning and not needing such a damn long port.
I actually just looked it up. For the 9" port, in 5 cubes net, tuned to 32 Hz, you'd need it to be just at 27"
That's actually pretty comparable to the length on the two 6" options. If the 9"er is easier for this specific build, let er rip man. Should be really cool looking and since its metal, paint is easy
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Need help comin up with a CC name
in Team Discussion
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'Merica Badarses