ghostismyname
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Posts posted by ghostismyname
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Alright so i have a Explorer, it has a back hatch with a seperate pane of glass that open and latches in the bottom middle of the pane. Im looking to seal this shut permanetly, but i also want to get my windows tinted and am worried that after i get them tinted and then seal the back window the tint will come off because of the sealant and the flexing from my system( right now that pane of glass flexs a good 2 inchs at the bottom and about 1 inch at the top where the hinges are) So basically i want to know what type of sealant to use and if my tint will come off.
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nice looking so far, i should post up my build i finished last week for my hdc4 18's. AQ4L
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this is what ive come up with so far, i forgot to add it but there will be a double baffle.
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I HATE how the damn back seats are angled
If you have a 2nd/3rd gen you should be able to go 41 wide though, not that that info will help very muchlol yea i can go 41, but i wanted to be able to get her in there
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yea so side note this going in a explorer 2 door, ill be able to get 12 cubes with the seats folded down.
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Yea i figured...... so fold down the seats then...That's about enough air for ONE 18".....
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Alright i need to know if theres any way i can get 2 18"s in a box with dimensions of H=27,W=40,D=25? Sorry this may be a really dumb question but am i right to minus the port area from the total area of the box? If so that leaves me with 7.85 cubes with a port of 5x38.5 and thats definetly not enough space for 2 18"s. So with that all said those are max dimensions without folding down the rear seats, can i make this happen? or do i need to put the seats down?
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alright thanks for your help, getting kinda late here so im gonna nod off. Thanks again and anymore help is appreciated.
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Its your box you can do what ever you want. Your best bet to figuring out what the displacement is, is trying to find the specs for subs that are around the same size and see what its displacement is.
Yes ive already sent a email trying to contact Aq and see if they will tell me the displacement. But in the mean time i guess i could mock up some design with similar size woofers, ty
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your going to have some fun getting a sub that has the free air response of 40hz to play in the low 30s and high 20s daily lol
I never had any problem with my old aq's and playing 30hz and those were twelves? Not trying to give you a negative response, just in my case when i played low song that hit around 28-30 i still got the desired deep bass and solid rumble throughout my vehicle
i may just not have heard enough really good builds to tell the difference. But i mostly plan on playing rap/dubstep/rock i want the lower tuning mostly for show i guess. I figure ill stick with 30hz like my last box, of course i never did displacement when i made it so that probably drasticaly changend my tuning. And thank you for the clarification on what Vas actualy is. -
So ran some numbers, this a port up sub up configuration:
Enclosure Specifications:
Fb = 30.006 Hz
Vb = 9.049 ft^3
External Height = 25 in
External Width = 40 in
External Depth = 25 in
Port Width = 5 1/4 in
Cut List:
* All Dimensions in Inches.
* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.
External Enclosure Parts:
2 x Top & Bottom (3 parts) = 40 x 25
Left & Right Sides = 23 1/2 x 22 3/4
Front & Back = 40 x 22 3/4
L Port Internal Assembly Parts:
Front to Back = 17 1/2 x 23 1/2
Extension = 4 x 23 1/2
Audioque recommends 5 cubic feet minimum per sub, the design above is a cube short, so you need to give up more space to have a working design, also is better to specify the minimum frequency you want to listen to (F3) than tuning itself.
For example a 28 inch depth will let you reach 5 cubes per sub.
Thank you for the input, as for more space i can give up more height, atleast 10" more. And from what ive read after searching the forums apparently port firing to the rear is best in my application?
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honestly when you can't find it, just guesstimate. unless you're chasing tenths on the meter it really doesn't matter as long as you're close. i would estimate the displacement per sub is around .25
if you need help with the design, feel free to PM me anytime.
I will probably message you, any other input from people is stll welcome tho, ive decided ill go with the rear facing port and subs up.
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It's late and i'm getting lost in your words, but from what i understand, V(as) is not displacement. i might reread this in the morning, but if i'm skimming it correctly now, the displacement of two HDC4 18's will not be over 1 cubic foot, i can almost guarantee that
sorry for rambling on, but yes basically i need help getting my box tuned to 28-30hz, link for the hdc4 18 page is here http://www.audioque.com/HDC418-D1-A-_p_137.html incase you can find the displacement.
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Alright so my hdc4s are on their way here, in the meantime ive been figuring out a design for my box, Measurements so far are H=25 W=40 D=25. This is going into a ford explorer 2 door. I dont know what will sound better port facing up(with the subs) or facing the rear hatch? Ive been working on trying to get the port on the top, but i want it tuned to 28-30hz and i cant seem to get it there, atleast on Chris Torres Box Calculator. it works in the calculator on The12volt. Either way i need help with this and on a second note sub displacement, ive never counted it in my builds because ive never had such big woofers before, on their site they list * V(as)= 48.450 liters (1.711 cubic feet) Under the hdc4 18"s specs, I only assume this is the displacement, so with two woofers thats 3.422 cubic feet, this drasticaly effects my tuning
I need some help with this kinda stressfull. Further info depth and width of box cant be increased at all(it will fit snug this way as it is) height on the other hand has some roomi dont know exactly but id say atleast 10".Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. -
well thank you both
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Either way you should upgrade your electrical. So it's done and then you can run what ever power you want. IMO the hdc3s would be louder but if you already have the sdc2.5s then I would just stay with thoes untill they wear out or you get a realy good deal on a better sub/ the sub you want. Hope that gives you what you want.
A question on the electrical, if i was to get something along the lines of a 2200 watt system would a good alt upgrade do the trick or would i need to get a extra bat too?
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I've seen people put a lot of power to the hdc3's, even some people putting double the rms rating. But I couldn't tell you on the 2.5s
Thanks for the info i hope i can get a little more insight on the 2.5's . Ive got awhile before im going to purchase so im just trying to get some opinions. thanks for the input.
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Ok so ive built my box for 2 Audio que sdc2.5 15"s, but i keep wondering if going the extra mile and getting the hdc3 series 15" would be better, box is in trunk of saturn sl1 1999 (had to make my car fit my box) I was just wondering if anyone knew what kind of power they put to their sdc2.5's and their hdc3's. Id like to not have to upgrade my electrical system too much but i could do it. Any insight would be great thank you.
If you have a 2nd/3rd gen you should be able to go 41 wide though, not that that info will help very much.gif){kind=small}
Window Sealing?
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anyone?