ghostismyname
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Posts posted by ghostismyname
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lol yea true, and yes i went to his house before and i got a new head unit and i cant get ahold of him now, its the same head unit i had but wanted to see
where this one clipped
so blinking red is fine?
i personally try and stay away from any red light, blinking or non blinking, but thats just cuz im real paranoid i guess, but you cant go wrong if you pick a song with a variety of high and low notes in it and just tune it so its just below where it starts to blink occasionally.
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ok i will do that.
i no some people let it solid red but they said it dont mean anything cuz its not accurate.
Well IMO, those people think they know what they are talking about and don't.
lol this also, and if you interested this weekend ill be getting my dd-1 and ill test out and see if my clip light on either of the remote gain nobs for my 2200's is accurate
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super excited to get my dd-1, could you possibly sign it for me order #100002443
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i dont know if this helps, but im building a wall in my explorer. A 4th order for 2 18's. But im keeping my back seats, only way is i took the backrests off the back seats and the box will be the back rest.
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Inverted is mostly for looks, but also saves on woofer displacement in ur box, since the majority of the woofer is not in the box
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Series each sub to itself... Thats 2 - 2ohm subs
Then parralell
That will give ya 1ohm
Then strap
Thank you that's what I was looking for, probably won't be trying it for awhile for electrical reasons, or may just get 2 more 2200's to stay safe. Thank you all for your help.
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ray is the only oen who is right
the load you see when strapped is divided between your two amps.
if you are strapped at 2 ohms each amp sees 1
if you are strapped at 1 each sees .5
get it?not the opposite.
what you are asking is what you are currently doing if you are presenting a 1 ohm load to your amps.
yea basically im trying to figure out if i can wire my dual 1ohm subs to a one ohm load across the strapped amps(.5 each amp) Because when i wire the subs in parallel i can get either 1 ohm or 4 ohm load, i origanily had them wired to one ohm on a single 2200, and when i got my 2nd 2200 i strapped them togather and then just hooked them up same way. So right now each amp would be seeing 1 ohm right?
Thanks n8... and in no way am I promoting strapping below manufactures recomendations....just cause I do it doesn't mean everyone can..like I said I have 3 alternators 10 runs of 0g and 6 batteries and numerous other things caps dual inputs adj vm...if its not enough power get 3500.1s
yea i might in the end go with bigger amps, i just dont want to have to get rid of my 2200's lol i may just get another pair and run them strapped and have a strapped pair for each woofer.
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But my subs are dual 1ohm, how can i strap amps to 1 ohm?The amp is going to see whatever load you have it wired to. I have my bc5500 's strapped at 1 ohm. Just make sure you got the electrical for it
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Ok so currently im running 2 aq 2200d's strapped, subs are wired to 1ohm and with that across a pair of strapped amps it means the full load is 2ohms at around 4400 watts correct? Well i want to know if anyone has wired their strapped amps to 1ohm (so .5 ohm each amp basically) if so how can you do this and would i be able to? I could wire each amp to a sub at .5 ohm, but if im correct running them strapped saves on my current and will help with keeping subs cooler and also i like keeping only one bass nob. Heres my setup, 2 aq 2200d's strapped, and 2 aq hdc4 18's.
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Remove old regular 3 and measure out lengths of new 1/0 wire and add a few extra inches, makes it easier to work with.
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but for bass, its something you get used to. thats why you take steps to getting louder. start small
Lol i skipped a few steps....and it surprised the hell out of me, used to it now tho.
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Now its time to build and either blow something up, or have a good system.
Lol'd, well learning is half the fun sometimes.
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I always thought a good general rule was "apply as needed" Try and coat the areas where the most flex will occur, thoroughly and minor areas a little less. You can always buy more later if you dont like the results.
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here's the build log, there's a video in the last post on the first page, and another on the second page.
http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1
what part of the box is flexing?
it really doesn't come across as being very loud in the video, are you sure the woofers are all in phase?
Yeah, I'm sure, trust me, I'm not a complete idiot. All I asked for was what material is stronger than MDF, and got my answer. Don't sit here and criticize why my box is flexing, I know why, and I'd rather just learn on my own. Got my answer, that's all I need. Kthanks.
no one said you were a complete idiot man, they are all just trying to help you out man. Like they said if you used 3/4 mdf and brace it properly there should be no flex, i used 3/4 mdf on my box for my 2 18 aq hdc4 and right now there only seeing 4000 watts but theres no box flex going on. Its just comes down to where your brace points were and 1x1 braces wont do you much good, the brace itself would flex, a quick solution i did was a 3/4" bolt and washer and nuts, keeps them walls tighter than all hell.
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No nothing confusing so in other words it doesn't matter which pos terminal i use with dd-1 to set gains
correct
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i have that same amp. Yes each sub can get its own set of terminals , the terminals are interconnected inside the amp so you will still achieve the ohm load you are after
Alright thanks... how you like the amp? and what you have it pushing
Even though he said it ill say it also. Ive got two aq2200's and i love them so far, gonna wire them each down to .5 ohm, they should take it like champs. If your question relates to what pos and neg terminals on the amp you should wire your subs to, just wire your subs togather in the correct impedence and then just run your negatives to either negative on the amp, and your positive to either positive on the amp. Its a mono block amp, so its only got one channel, it has the 4 terminals just for easier wiring, basically the 2 negative terminals come together inside the amp, and the 2 positive terminals do the same. Sorry if i worded this in a confusing way.
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Alright thanks guys, i figured id ask before i bought the rest.
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hey guys i was just wondering if it was safe to have a bank of yellowtops inside my vehicle. It says they are agm, so i would assume i could. But id like to know if anyone here does this.
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Think i may have a solution, my buddy drag races and uses this stuff on his windows and for gaskets. http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm I will post results after i try it when i wake.
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you could possibly try the rope caulk some people use between subs/box. Not sure if it would be think enough, though.
Ok ill look into that option also, thank you.
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Still no other advice? How do most of you guys reduce the rear window flex on suv's with back hatch windows? I dont have any deadner yet installed but i dont see how it would help much with my issue.
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weld it..if there 2 bits steel near touch, just get out the old mig welder..may have repaint tho lol
Not sure if there's a difference from generations, but the only metal contact is the handle of the window.
Yea not enough metal to weld. My original thoughts where a type of silicone, or like you said a packing or weather stripping, but the weather stripping would have to be very thick and dense to hold up and make a seal. I just have no idea what would be best to use.....
Would you brace this sub box?
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Posted · Edited by ghostismyname
This is what i did, have to make sure you seal it up nice around the threaded rods hole. I used a 3/4" threaded rod, probably excessive but it worked great!