Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Jeep727

  1. Hey, I dont know if this box build warrants a thread here, but I thought someone may be interested in seeing my system's progress. Unfortunately, this is probably the last of my additions to the system for a few years because I will be away starting a Biomedical Engineering degree this fall.

    All cuts were done with a circular saw. Sorry for the lack of pictures but at any rate, here they are:








    What my garage turned into:


    That's it for now. Vids later.

  2. People generally run 12-16 square inches per cube for a slot port and 9-13 inches per cube for flared ports. However, I am running one 10" sub in a box with 19.5 inches per cube and it sounds good. If you choose to run a large port are like I am, mount the sub far away from the internal port opening to prevent any unloading possibilities.

  3. Thiele/Small (t/s) commonly refers to a set of electromechanical parameters that define the specified low frequency performance of a loudspeaker driver. These parameters are published in specification sheets by driver manufacturers so that designers have a guide in selecting off-the-shelf drivers for loudspeaker designs. Many of the parameters are strictly defined only at the resonant frequency, but the approach is generally applicable in the frequency range where the diaphragm motion is largely pistonic, i.e. when the entire cone moves in and out as a unit without cone breakup.

  4. I'm not sure how familiar you are with car audio, but it is important to realize that as you upgrade to high powered amps and subs, your charging system must also be properly upgraded. Before you spend all your money on expensive subs and amps, you need to factor in the cost of electrical upgrades. On another note, you said that you "at least" want to do a hairtrick. Countless factors go into producing acoustic levitation (which allows hairtricks to occur) and producing this levitation is far from easy.

  5. Go download a program called WinIsd and input the t/s parameter of your sub. The program will suggest a box size as well as tuning frequency. The program will also provide a frequency response graph to give you an idea of what the sub will sound like in that box. However, the program does not accurately predict cabin gain as this would be nearly impossible because all vehicle have different acoustic properties. After you have an idea of what size enclosure you want and the tuning frequency, download Torres box calculator on this site and input various dimensions until you are satisfied with a design.

    If this sounds too complicated, get in contact with RAM Designs and he can hook you up with a nice design.


  6. I would say it depends on your application. I dont think you said whether you were focusing on loudness or moderate loudness with decent sound quality. From what I've read, people gripe that the AQ subs have a "hollow" sound, which has kept me away from AQ. I have never personally owned a BL, but I do own an Fi Q currently and am satisfied with the sound quality in my low power application. I would model both subs with WinIsd with your box size and see which response curve you like based upon your listening tastes.

    My $.02.

  7. Sounds possible but so many factors go into producing acoustic levitation (what allows people to do hair tricks). I read somewhere that you need to have 1/4 of the surface area of the cabin in cone area and appropriate power to do produce acoustic levitation (please chime in if I'm wrong). However, there is a video on this site of a guy doing a pretty nice hairtrick with 1 12" and ~2000rms so I guess that's not always true. lol. Good luck with your hairtrickin :good:

  8. I know this whole idea sounds unorthodox and ridiculous, but I plan to use 4" pvc and fittings to make it fit in the vehicle. This isn't build isn't meant to be permanent be any means. I will be driving a new vehicle soon and will building a more 'attractive' box. Gally, I have never experienced mdf burning from a woofer being to close to the back of an enclosure. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that the distance to the back of an enclosure doesn't need to be terribly long for proper cooling.

  • Create New...