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paulgroce

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Everything posted by paulgroce

  1. There is nothing for sale here........... User is not following the forsale forum rules and guidelines! You MUST have 150 Posts to place something for sale. You MUST have pictures with your username, the current date you posted item forsale, and pictures of the product. You MUST have the potential product for sale in your procession.
  2. I am running a momphis mojo (rated for 1750 watts rms) on about 1k rms right now for about a month, and I haven't had a problem. Just make sure you set your gains correctly and check from time to time after you have been playing them at high volume to make sure the cone isn't too hot, if it is then your gains are probably not set correctly, or your electrical can't keep up and is causing clipping... Okay awesome! Thanks a lot thats perfect info
  3. lol sooo...... back over here haha Okay.... so as long as I correctly tune the amp then everything will be good? I am asking about this setup because I plan on eventually adding more amps but for now this will have to do.
  4. as long as you set them CORRECTLY, yes. every time you turn the volume down, the amp puts out less power. with every note in a song, power changes. and due to those factors and others, i wont confuse you with, your subs will likely only see 500w each, at most. what amp and subs are you getting? make sure the subs are dual 4ohm or dual 1ohm. The amp is a Massive Audio N4 2000watts at 1 ohm The subs are 2 dc xl's
  5. Ight well I dont completely understand how to make sure to prevent clipping? What is it and what I do?
  6. Okay so as long as I set the gains correctly then this setup will totally work?
  7. Is it okay to underpower subwoofers? It wont damage the speakers but what about the amp? The ohm load is compatible but the amp will only push out 2000 watts rms at one ohm and the speakers are 2 15's that need 1500rms each. Is this okay to run these? can someone explain amplifier clipping to me?
  8. Never mind I am getting help from jeff. Thanks dude!
  9. I tried calling up the number on DC's website which I guess is "thorshammer"s number? And I keep getting no answer so I am sure he is busy as a mo-fo. Is there any dealers that can help me out? I live in Bartow, FL 33830. Also got some questions before I start buying lol. I plan on buying them friday (8/5) -Paul Groce
  10. Even if I am only powering just 1000 watts per sub?
  11. New batt KHC 2000 and big ass 0 gauge wire just came in :]

  12. Ight so purty much if I wanted to keep the rms at the basic stock 1000 watts rms then the only things worth upgrading would be the carbon fiber dustcap and direct leads.
  13. Lvl 5 upgrades consist of what? like VC and spider? And if I get the lvl 5 upgrades what will that effect? RMS?
  14. Are there any worth-while upgrades or options to add when buying these speakers?
  15. Okay awesome thanks a whole bunch! This friday imma call them up and make the order
  16. Oh okay lol so 6.5 net cubes tuned to 34 hertz and that will make some chest poundin bass right?
  17. Okay cool so the DC lvl 4 15's and a net 9 cubic foot box tuned to 34 hz. Also I have read that the direction the port or the subs are facing can effect the bass?
  18. Yep. Subs in the right size box will preform better than subs in a box thats to small or to big. 9 cubes net for 2 18's is to small. Okay cool so 2 15's in a 9 cube box tuned to like 35? I want to make sure I have everything perfect before I buy them lol sorry. Whats the difference between tuning higher and lower? I want something to pound me in the chest and then some.
  19. I wouldnt recommend going below 5 cubes net per 18" sub. I did a quick look at the size available you posted and your around 9 cubes net after port.and sub displacement. Thats single baffled box with a 36hz tune. If you want to tune lower your going to have even less space. You cant include the port area in the available space. The space you need is the net volume. The area you have left after accounting for the port displacement, sub displacement and and any displacements for bracing, 45's or extra baffles. You could tune anywhere around 34hz and have a pretty good daily box. So if I got the 15's then i could optimize the box more and it would probly sound better since they have the amount of room they would need?
  20. For what your doing and the amount of power your running a stock Level 4 would be just fine. They sound awesome without and changes. Direct leads is more of a personal preference. Not necessary at all. Okay cool and last question you don't think I could fit two 18's in there? They each would be getting about 4-5 cubic feet including the port? I was thinking I could fit them cuz the cutout diameter for the subs was only like 16 inches. What should I tune the box to?
  21. Why wouldnt you put any upgrades on th dc lvl 4's? I don't know very much about voice coils and spiders and such but wouldnt it be good to upgrade those or atleast get direct leads? lol sorry that I dont know much about what I am talking about.
  22. Alright I have been looking into getting a car audio system for awhile and its come down to the point where I am just picking which subwoofer would be best for my setup. Vehicle: 2002 mercury mountaineer Alternator: 250 amp excessive amperage Big 3 upgrade Battery in the back: KHC2000 Max box dimensions: 44width x 23height x 23 depth Amplifier: Massive audio N4 Wires: all power and ground wires are 0 gauge Goals: Chest pounding bass when I want to impress and tight accurate sound quality when I want to really hear every beat. My original goal was to create a spl setup but now I realize imma want a lot of SQ also. Any experienced audiophiles out there that can share some experience with either subwoofer and help me choose the best setup? I have talked to Thilo from TC sounds and he says that 2 15" axis can be wired down to 1 ohm so thats not a worry. But I do want 2 of either one I am getting so if its dc then imma get 2 18" dc lvl 4's with some upgrades, and if I get the TC sounds then imma get 2 15" Axis. Anyone help me out?
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