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soundcheck11

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Posts posted by soundcheck11

  1. Best input you are gonna get should be from me i´m guessing lol, i´ve seen many people using the C5 but almost no one with the C7, i used a C6 for almost a full year, and i´ve tested the C7 a couple of times on a friend´s car, the specs are on 18v iirc , i clamped 2800 watts @ 3.8 ohms dropping to 12.5v on my old C6 , it´s a beast amp for sure that can take TONSSSS of fucking abuse, mine took lots of vibrations for more than a year until it died, but that´s was the reason and nothing else.

    The C7 CAN TAKE 0.5 ohms daily if you have the electrical to back it up, 0.75 ohms should be safe if you have a nice batts and alt, that amplifier sounds awesome on music and can take tons of abuse, just know this, you ain´t getting 7K from that amplifier wired at 0.75 ohms with a voltage around 13v , 5K is the most you are gonna get from it if you are lucky...

    Thank You for your input! Think i will go for a couple different amps as i dont neccessarily want to go out and spend another few $$$g just for 6volt batteries and regulators and stuff. Thank You Sir!

  2. doesnt say it has to be powered by 18v just says it can handle up to 18 volts. but like most have said i realizse the power will be greater at an 18v input. I did read somewhere on the cadence website that there testing was done at a 14.4v. but i do appreciate the help guys. still looking into amps to get for my set up. even with a this amp it would still put out what id need to 4 w7's at a lower voltage than 18v

  3. currently running 2 220 amp alts, 4 runs of power front to back, of course 0 guauge to alts, the only issue is my batteries, i have 5 yellow top group 34 batts. that my be the only thing that will pull me down alittle.

    I have learn a few things about these subs. They dont like sealed boxes and they can take WAY more power then they say. Had a friend that put 2500 to one sub. It is all down to the box design, luckily i have a friend that is a great box designer. these will be put into a power cube wall design with about 11 cubes after displacment with a port tuning of 32hz as im going for more of a daily system instead of spl. just want the capability to get loud.

    Thank you all for your help i do appreciate your inputs!

  4. AQ3500.1 is definitely a nice option, wire it below 1 ohm should get you a nice power after rise anyway since it´s an underated amp :)

    Really? Even thou theres no ratings for anything below 1 ohm? Just worries me sometimes not knowing if it will actually go that low concidering you put out that much money youd expect to get every rating possible you know...

    Thank You

    Depends on the amplifier, yes that aq3500.1 can play below 1 ohm if you have the electrical to back it up (wich you said you have) , that amplifier should MURDER ;)

    awesome! Thank You!

  5. Im in need of some help with finding the best amplifers for my subs. First off i have 4 12" JL W7's. they will take 2k power easy but looking for something in the ball park of around 1.5-1.6k power to each sub. My predicament comes in the form of that these subs are only a single 3 ohm vc. These are my option, along with some questions.

    First, I try and find 1-2 amps that will power all them at .5-.75 ohm. What amps will do that and be efficient?

    Second, do i go with 4 2 channel brigable amps? The only issue i see here is that most amps are 4ohm brigded. Whats the likly hood of the amps failing with a 3 ohm load?

    Thank You for your time and help!!

    Jordan

  6. 13w7 is 2.375cuft ported for 30hz

    12w7 is 1.75cuft ported for 32hz

    10w7 is 1.5cuft ported for 32hz

    8w7 is 1.0cuft ported for 32hz

    i have 4 12w7's they play good in an 8cuft box tuned to around 30hz. I had 2 before that and it sounded amazing in just under a 4cuft sealed box. So, id suggest getting your box very close to these specs and it will sound pretty damn good.

    Good luck

  7. if your volt meter is hooked to the amp then your getting direct power off the amp. If you want direct current from alternator you need to get a regular volt guage and wire it to your ignition wire and that will give you firect voltage from the alternator. with that stinger volt guage it hooks to the amp so whenever your amp is on it draws power. everything you let off the gas pedal voltage will drop. when your sitting at a light and there is a load on the alternator your voltage will drop. like one other person said your possibly dropping below the level were the alt is actually charging and that is why you are getting voltage drops. check all your charging system wires and make sure they are in good condition. try sitting in your driveway with a voltmeter and turn everything one on the car and check and see if the alternator is actually charging the battery. if you dont see the voltage drop and come back quickly. if it comes back slowly it could be that the diodes are abit worn out.

  8. If you can fit a 7.5cuft box in there that would suit you very nicely. These subs are power hungry. Got a friend that has 2 fully loaded and hes running 4.5krms to 2 of them and hes well over 50+ db. His how ever is walled but after port displacement and sub displacement hes at around 7.5. if you cant do 7.5 then build it to as big as your trunk will allow. Would def make it ported! You can get this very loud. Try for a bigger amp then youd be set! I myself am looking at 4 fully loaded btl n2's in either a clamshell or a tunnel.

    Good Luck hope this helps alittle

  9. I know a guy that has dropped a 33hz tone at 148 with 1 18 on roughly 2k of power. was in a bmw estate car. Very similar to a passat. 48 are not that hard but it does come down to the acoustics of the car. Got any sound deadner in the car? try to eliminate as many rattles as possible. Do a sub up and port firing back. Upgrade wiring if you havent done yet. theres alot of minor stuff you can do to get a 48 with 3.3krms. it will be tedious but worth it in the end.

    Good luck!!

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