ryne19

Thanks for the advice. What is the triple joint?

Believe me i'm not trying to be an ass and tell people they are wrong. I'm just trying to let people know that it might not be that simple as adjusting my gain. If the subs coils both read 1.2 does this mean its a d1 or 1.4? If its a 1.4 the amps i tried to hook it up to could be seeing an ohm load it doesn't like perhaps? I have it wired as if its a d1 down to 2 ohms. I do appreciate all the input and my hu is one of the cheaper jvc ones so it probably has a lower preout on it. My amp also has two gain settings,one goes from .5 to 2 and the other is like 2 to 6 or something. I had it on the .5 to 2. As for pics and videos, i don't have it hooked up atm since i got tired of it not working after trying so many things.

Ok then what exactly does the input sensitivity or gain do? I'll turn it down and see if i get some better results. I did notice the amp running really hot though so i don't doubt that it was clipping.

So clipping could make a sub have its max excursion regardless of power? I just don't see how the gain all the way up could make it do what its doing. I've had the gain all the way up before and it sounded totally normal with good output when i installed my stuff in a friends car a couple weeks ago. The problem started when i installed it in my car. The settings on the amp were the same from when i took it out of my friends car and put it in mine. However, when i try and hook it up in his car again it does the same thing as it did in my car. Hopefully i can get this all figured out before my xls which i've been waiting 3 months for come in next friday Looking around on the forum i came across this. Clipping is the worst thing you can send to your subwoofers. Running a pure square wave (which is damn near MAX clipping) can potentially destroy a subwoofer on 1/4 RMS. When a clipped signal is applied, the coil loses linear travel and much more heat is released. Due to the lack of cone travel and excess heat build up, the woofer can easily blow on low power. It says lack of cone travel which is not something that is occurring, the damn thing moves too much especially on the low notes.

Bass boost is all the way down and the gain was up. I have 2 kinetik 1400s and a 145 amp alt so i don't think im clipping it. I should be looking at 1700 watts when the sub is wired to 2 ohms.

Anyone please?

Ok so i recently purchased a couple new things for my system including a ss rub1.2500, some knukonceptz 1/0 gauge, and a dc xl 10. The problem first started when i hooked up the rubicon and decided to hook up my friends sub in my car. The sub was already wired to 2 ohms so it should have worked fine on the rubicon but no. Once everything is hooked up i turn it on and the amp comes on and everything and the sub is working. However, the output is horrible and the excursion is rediculous and in short terms i ended up detaching the tinsels. So after that happens i get my xl 10 in and put it in a a 1 cube box tuned to 36 hz and it did the same thing as my friends sub. I found out that my xl i bought was actually a dual 1.4 or 1(both coils read 1.2 on mm) so i looked up and diagram for a dual 1 to achieve a 2 ohm load and hooked it up as pictured with positive from one coil to negative on the other and the negative and positive back to the amp. This however did not work and the excursion and output did not change. I tried hooking the sub on another amp and it did the same thing so i know its not the amp and it was a different car so it couldnt be the headunit. I really am stumped here and really agitated so please i hope someone knows whats wrong!