thatkickerguy

Rear battery is not actually a rear battery. Truck is a diesel and both deep cycles are under the hood.

They are 1 ohm stable @ 1000 watts 2 ohm @ 500 watts http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2010%20DX%20Mono%20Amps%20RevD.pdf page 2 dx1000.1 collumn Thanks for the replies. One other question, I was considering (after the 0gauge wire upgrade) changning the distribution block to a non fused one what do you guys think about that? I have a 200amp fuse at battery already.

I have 2 Kicker DX 1000.1 mono amps on 2 deep cycle batteries from a 250 amp altenator. There are no problems with the wiring coating or grounding out. One problem is the wireing is undersized. Two amps should probably have a 1/0 gauge wire. The wire was heating up but never got excesivly warm. Was there not enough power draw, because I thought fuses blow when there was too much power draw? Both amps are 1 ohm stable and are wired to 1 ohm with 2 subs a peice. Wire digram Deep cycle---4 gauge---distribution block-- two four gauge wires split to 2 dx's grounding is 4 gauge and less than 2 feet. The same amp always blows the fuse on the distibution block (at rating 100 amp fuse) the other amp is using an 80 amp fuse on the distibution block and has yet to blow it. The amp that is blowing the fuse has a longer 4 gauge from the distribution block, 3 ft as apposed to 1 ft on the other amp. My question is what would cause repeated fuse blowing? The amperage draw is hard and does pull the truck below the 14 mark (around 12 or 11) Would upgrading to a 0gauge wire from battery to distibution block solve this problem? I unhooked the amp that never blows and just ran the amp that does, and the amp never shut off, or popped a fuse. The problem only persists when both amps are hooked up not when the are running solo.