TheGreatJuice
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Posts posted by TheGreatJuice
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dont use a isolator, just run your batterys in parallel, and since you already got a XS under the hood why not get XS in the back?
Moneys tight but I really am contemplating putting an XS D3400 in the trunk because the 3100 would really strain my alternator
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Either way. I just need to know which Size isolator I need if I do wire it in parallel but I was planning on just in the vehicle hooked to the amp.
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just run them in parallel, unless you plan on using your system with the car off. And for 2500rms all you need is a little battery, like a hc800 or a similar XS power. I personally wouldnt use yellow tops due to the fact i have seen too many go bad quick, but i have not used one personally.
I plan on running it with the car off sometimes (like when waiting for someone w/ the volume down). Isnt it also possible to just ground the 2nd battery and run the power wire to the monoblock?
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i have an isolator and what you do is wire the positive sides of the batteries to the posts marked "batt A, batt B" (one terminal to one post, the other terminal to the other post) then you run a wire usually off the center post labeled ign (or similar) to a switched 12+ like your ignition wire. thats what i did oh! and make sure that wherever you mount the isolator is ground down to bare metal because thats how it grounds itself.
hope this helps!
jarrid
Thanks for the tip. What size isolator would you use?
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How would you wire the isolator?
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I currently have an XS D1200 under the hood and a stock 150 amp alternator. I plan on adding a 2nd battery to power ONLY the 2500w monoblock and leave the first battery to run the 4 channel. I plan on adding an Optima yellow top 31T or XS D3100 (very little difference). What would be the best way to wire the battery?
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It's not cheap but I found it cheaper. RE Audio (US Amps) IMO has a lot of clarity in they're amps. Both amps arenormally $300 but I found it for $88 on eBay new so it's fitting my budget more lol. I'm running Kicker KS65.2 components
with those speakers you won't notice a difference between classes
I figured as much. I'll stay with the A/B for the better specs and damping factor anD lower price. Thanks for the info
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It's not cheap but I found it cheaper. RE Audio (US Amps) IMO has a lot of clarity in they're amps. Both amps arenormally $300 but I found it for $88 on eBay new so it's fitting my budget more lol. I'm running Kicker KS65.2 components
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Kranny, you and I normally agree on stuff...yes, for solid SQ AB wins. but modern class D full range amps sound very good, and most people won't notice a difference...MOST people. As far as efficiency goes...AB amps are most efficient at 80-95% power...running as high as 70%. usually they will be about 40% efficient. For the average joe I'd recommend the full range D just because he can get more power with a smaller footprint and will be just as happy with it.
You just answered my question considering I'm a huge audiophile haha. The A/B is alot cheaper anyway so that makes a huge difference.
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They're both made by the same company, RE Audio. I just didn't know if there was a difference in the quality. The specs are a little bit better on the Class A/B but the Digital Class D is more compact, as it can fit under a car seat.
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Im looking either at a full range digital class D amplifier with 80% efficiency or a class A/B with a 70% efficiency. Neither have much of a current draw towards my electrical but I just wanted to know how much of an actual difference in current draw there was.
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But I will say one thing about re sx 18s while it lasted it sounded awsome it was one of the.cleanest deepest bass I've herd while it lasted.
The SX's are amazing sounding subs but the XXX honestly sold me. The SX's do have some issues with staying together which is why I didn't buy 2 SX 12s. I do like that whether it's dirty or clean, they take it clean all day.
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Hit up amicustoms
Aren't they just custom pillars and gauges?
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Looking to get a XS d3100 for my trunk setup. Willing to pay for shipping as well. Will accept as long as it's in good condition.
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I would go with dc or audioque. Audioques street duty line is awsome on Sq and still gets nasty. Re audio imo sucks now. Ever one I know who's run any of the re subs including sx, mx,an the xxx have caught fire or the tinsel wires burn apart.
You would be the first I have heard say that the XXX subs rip apart at the leads
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I already have an RE XTX5000.1 which runs 2500w RMS @1ohm and I've came down to my final decision on a setup. I want to achieve great sound quality while still getting a respectable SPL level. I have came down to either 2 10" DC XL's or 1 12" RE XXX. I have heard the amazing sound quality from a XXX on 2000w pushing about 132db but personally I've never heard any systems with 2 XL 10's. Anyone have an opinion on which one to go with? I'm going to be throwing this in a Ford Fusion.
damn dude. Didnt have to punch RE in the nuts for that one.
How was I disrespecting RE? haha.
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I already have an RE XTX5000.1 which runs 2500w RMS @1ohm and I've came down to my final decision on a setup. I want to achieve great sound quality while still getting a respectable SPL level. I have came down to either 2 10" DC XL's or 1 12" RE XXX. I have heard the amazing sound quality from a XXX on 2000w pushing about 132db but personally I've never heard any systems with 2 XL 10's. Anyone have an opinion on which one to go with? I'm going to be throwing this in a Ford Fusion.
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I had hifonics brz1200.1d and it fried after 2 months of use. New model btw.
Go with something more reliable.
Right now, it's looking between US Amps xtx5000.1 or the sundown saz2500
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The old RE XXX turned into the MT and the XXX went to a SQ sub.
Nice
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The SPL XXX or the SQ XXX?
I didn't know there were different XXX's lol. I was getting the new model XXX's
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I Have 2 RE Audio XXX 12" And I'm Running 2 Hifonics BRZ 2400.1, 1 To Each Sub.
I was looking at the Hifonics BRZ- 2400 on it but I honestly think the sundown saz2500 would sound better overall.
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I would use a DD m3A thats my
I would use the DD just by looking at it but the problem is my cars PCM controls limit my car from running over 12v. Little ole 2008 Ford Fusion :/
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Looking to run a XXX 12" in the trunk (2000w RMS). I had my eye on the hifonics Brutus, but i have been hearing split opinions. Any suggestions?
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I was gonna run either setup on the DC 3.5k amp. After reading all the comments though I'm gonna side on DC. I'm not big into JL, they sound alright but I've heard better subs, Fi is more boom with no SQ in my opinion.
Adding a 2nd battery
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Most people put a 300A fuse at either the front, back, or both sides but most people pick one or the other. I'll be fusing it closer to the rear battery.