SS4Luck

its a 2011 dodge ram crew cab. The subs for now are 2 12" L7s on a DX1000.1 whos birth sheet says 1180 A 14.4V. The subs are dual 4ohm wired to 1ohm. Ive been having a hell of a time with these because 1) theyre kickers 2) their stupid L7s but I got both and amp for less than $300 BNIB 3) Im dealing with a shitty enclosure location for the next 6-12 months until my fiance gets an SUV and has space to cart around both our little siblings to and from school and doesnt have to use the truck to do it. Then im going to wall with DCs but thats a different convo

I built the box I have my kickers in right now like total shit because I was in a hurry. Its subs up port side and now that Ive gotten over having bass again sounds like shit. Ive got RamDesigns designing me a box for the XL 15s im getting soon, but I think i need to do something with my kickers in the mean time. Right now my box is 22T 22W 34L subs up port to the passanger side behind the drivers seat. Which box would be better to build. a little mini 1/3 wall subs and port forward or leave the layout it is and do subs up port forward?

Haha eat it you phucksticks. I have no problem lifting it, I couldn't get my hands in the box around the battery and used the plastic handle on the top of the battery to lift it out and after about 6" of lifting the plastic snapped. I'm just trying to think of how would you move one of it was in say a battery bank with no way to get your hands down to the sides

How do you guys move your 3100s around?! I went to take my new one out of the box today when it got here and the freaking handle broke!!!! Damn thing almost went through my kitchen table lol How are people supposed to move these around?!

Ya I have seen those and they do look sick, especially cuz Ive already cut a hole in my door skin for my kicker tweeters. Problem Is I cant find shit about physical specs on them and I dont want to play the too shallow of a mounting depth game with them

Ive heard em amp'ed and they suck lol. I got them for free from my friend who was talking them out of his car. They were better than stock... but not much Clean has everything to do with the signal you're gonna be sending them. If the signal from the deck to the amp, to the components is clean, the final product should sound clean. What do you want out of the tweet and drivers? Do you like bright and crisp, or smooth and clear? The Fosgate T series stuff gets pretty damn loud and are VERY bright. If you like smoother, a silk dome setup might be more up your alley, like some of the Rainbows or RE's. See thats my problem, I dont exactly understand the difference in what you "hear". I know with subs, but not so much with comps? I listen to a lot of dubstep and a lot of rock, like slipknot and killswitch types. The JLAudio 6x9s I had in my corvette were closer to what im looking for, but Im not paying that kind of money again for them knowing what i know now

Yes, im waiting to buy the amp for my comps till i pick some out and can match them better

Im looking to finally upgrade my front stage. Currently running Kicker KS6.5 w/ their 1" tweeter of the deck and they dont cut it now with my kickers I know they arent going to cut it with my DC build. Problem is i only have about 3" mounting depth. So im looking for something that has good power handling and will be loud and clean enough to keep up with a pair of DC XLs

Alrite how about this one then. I think this is right, or at least close to it haha. One of my friends dad runs/works in a CNC shop so I could have him machine my bars to whatever I need. Is thereany certain way to run the leeds in/out? Like do they have to be in a certain order? Im figuring have 6 holes machined into it for runs and then 2 to connect to the terminals. I would proably use set screws in the 6 holes and eliminate the O ring and solder connection. As long as it doesnt matter where they are connected I think that will work. If the runs have to come into the bar pass over the batts then go to the amp Ill have to redo my thought process. The little black boxes across the wires are fuses btw

So where exactly would you put the bussbar, just between the rear batteries? If so how many rns would you put to the bar itself? Ill be running a little north of 5K RMS so it would have to be decently thick aluminum correct? Then as far as making a bussbar for the grounds I am 100% lost on the. I would need someone to help me with a diagram/detailed list of how the heck to do that lol

Wiring looks correct to me except the amp has 2 inputs and 1 ground? I feel like this is a proper circuit but could be done better. I'd probably ground both rear batts and the amp all together on the frame. And I'd put a single run of cable between the + on the rear batts bussbar style. Also, fuses mofukka! The amp has 2 ground i forgot one lol. Ill look into the bussbar, never thought of that. I didnt forget fuses, Im usign the trackpad on my laptop and no way in phuck i was going through and addint tiny little fuses boxes to each line lol. There will be a 300A fuse in every run Any reason to ground them all at the same place? I could do the batts in one place but the amp would be seperate, its going to be on the other side of the truck and im trying to minimize drilling holes in my floor board

With where the post is I could run 5. They would fan fairly nicely off of the side of the engine and run down to the frame. My battery is tucked inbetween my brake booster, hood prop and fuse boxes. The less I have coming off of it the easier my life will be. When I get the alt on I will look at the arrangement for 5 and double check, but if my math is right it can be done.

Im going to be wiring my truck up soon and I just want to make sure this is right/will work. All wiring is 1/0 XS Power (CCA)

Alrite does this sound right to everyone. Two braces from side wall to side wal @ 20.5" one brace from between the subs to the top of the port roof @ 17.75" (figuring the port to be in the ~5" range one brace from end to end longwise @ 34.5" Giving me a total of 93.25" of 1" dowel assuming my basic design so far is correct. I also need to figure out how much space 45s take up. I know everything will be rounded and there "should" be roughly 6" of box after the port leaving perfect room for a 45 in the bottom corner so it doesnt phuck with port size at the entrance. Can someone help me with the math on this so i can plug it into Torres? 93.25 x 1 of Dowel and what kind of space 4 45* corner pieces will take up. I plan on running a dual front baffle, but Im going to flush mounth the subs so that the extra baffle doesnt affect box displacement

Will do CJ, Ill send you that money today

I don't have room for anything but subs up port to the pass angers side or forward. The rear wall and side next to the door are less than 1/2" away from the walls. I wish I could take the other section of back sear out but I have to pick up/drop 2 kids everyday and need the backseats

2011 Dodge ram 1500 It'll look like this. This box is what I'm currently running 22wx23Tx34L. Picture is before I carpeted the box, just a test fit to make sure it worked/fit

The box is going to be 22x25x36 with subs up port forward. I don't have it sketched up yet waiting and vlbracing displacement. I was thinking of doing a double front baffle to support the subs making the box 25.75 tall. The window line in NY truck is 26"

I know the dowel thing, its more where to put them? Every X amount of inches? I know what there for and why they need to be there I just don't know where there is. I planned over glassing the outside of the box, guess I could do the inside too. Would it take up enough space to ever worry about affecting displaxeent/tuning?

Err .06 each. There really isn't much on the underside of that cone lol

Kickers website says just under .06

I have my 2 12L7s in 6ft after displacement ans they love it. I built 3 different boxes and by far this was the best one. I've got ~80^2" of port area tuned to 35.5HZ and it sounds better than my last one that was tunes to 33HZ.

Okay Ive asked this question twice in the sub/enclosure section and haven't gotten an answer.... What is the rule of thumb about adding bracing? Is there somewhere to read about it or something? I know about the triangles/45s in the corners but that's it. I know that bracing is needed across large faces to keep the panels from rattling though. I'm going to start designing/building the box for my new XLs soon and want to make sure its perfect. I started a pissing contest with my fiancees sisters husband about loudness and want to make sure I whip his ass and show him his shit doesnt bump like he thinks (2 JL 13.5W7s @ 1250 rms ea). he says he did 45s on the dash with the door open in his escalade... Time to make another believer in DC.and show him Jl isn't what everyone thinks

Haha I didn't think that far into it. My head went "umm doesn't he know you can just put a 15" cone on a 12 and make it work like that" My bad guys

Nice trade lol What do you mean by recone TO a 15... that doesnt look like a 15 to me?