1996BLKBauer

How many people got BlackBerry's? Got my trusty BB Curve 8530 with a Otter Box. Love it, and the keyboard. only reason I don't have a Android or iphone is because I cannot deal with touch screens, and touch screens, I do love my track pad though.

If I opt to get a fuse, just in case (I got a AZ replacement alt, so I don't trust it 100%). Does the kit include the fuse holder, and fuse, or do I just buy it myself? If I have to buy it my self, do I just get a fuse rated near or slightly above what my Alternator pumps out at optimal output? I know I have the 130amp alternator. So do I ideally want a 130, or more likely to find a 150 amp fuse? I appreciate all the info, I have learned so much after joining this site, I feel stupid for not joining sooner. I also plan on sending an Email when I know the length, and size I would like. 0 Gauge is a little bit out of my price range. I am uncertian how much doing 4 gauge would reduce the cost though.

I will measure it and see what I need, I have seen a few local guys in my area with there wires going right over there engine block. For me, and just about anybody that is a no go. It is always better to have too much and not enough, but since I don't have a ton of money I want just the right amount.No I have read a lot about putting a fuse inline with the alt connection. But since I have a stock alt I don't think I need it. In your personal opinion, do you think I really need one? @detroitdb I have actually already checked used battery, most shops by me carry AZ, or Advanced battery's that have been turned in. @getlocivic This is good to hear, I am 99% sure I am going to get one @Tebo I will check that out, but still pretty set on the Interstate Megatron Plus.

www.ceautoelectricsupply.com - I also have a forum here in the Partner's section Thanks, I figured since your profile said Partner, that it was your site. I checked it out, and saw that you offer 3 kits, a 3 foot, 4 foot, and 5 foot application. Now I have a 1996 Ford Explorer, and the battery is on the drivers side, and the alternator is on the passenger side. What length do you suggest?

Good to hear, I always enjoy opinions on products I want to buy, I have yet to read a bad one for a Megatron Plus Battery.

I plan on turning my system up only when the truck is running... Also I don't see a Banner in your Sig, Maybe it's the browser I am using?

Thanks for the suggestion 209er, But to be honest, I would not want to deal with shipping just in case something went wrong. But what I did do today, while on my normal runs around town. I was at Ace Hardware and they are a Interstate Battery's Dealer, and they had the Battery I was looking at online. I was shocked to see the price $25 cheaper then online. So instead of going with Duralast and doing battery swapping, I am going to buy this Interstate Mega-Tron Plus Battery. For $125 for a good name brand, and for an upgradedish battery, I cannot go wrong. It has or is rated to have 850CCA. So it should do just fine with my small system.

The size comparison got me, it looks much bigger in the video. Hoping to see the price soon, I was about to order a Stinger Meter next week, but I may hold off. The Stock High/Low Volt Meter on my Explorer annoys me because I want to know exactly how many volts I have.

Factory tint is non Metalized, and is more for privacy, it is not really window tint film, it is just a layer built into the glass. Also 32% sounds odd, I usually deal with 35%.

OK, so doing a little more research I found 3 possible candidates. Two from Autozone, and one from Advanced. One is there Gold Series Duralast Battery, and the second AZ Battery is the Platinum Series battery, the 3rd from Advanced is Also a Gold version Battery, with more CCA. The Gold from AZ has more CCA, and a longer Warrenty, so why is the platinum one so much more? If anybody knows why it is, and if spending the extra money is worth it, let me know. Link to Platinum Battery (http://www.autozone....19465_351722_0_) Link to Gold Battery (http://www.autozone....53433_401309_0_) Link to Advanced Gold Battery (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Battery,-Group-Size-65,-850-CCA-AutoCraft-Gold_2040468-P_2916_R%7CGRPBATTAM2_____)

Thanks for the info, I guess just running one larger gauge and then splitting it in to the two amps never came to mind. It makes a lot of sense. I think most of my problem is that I am over thinking everything, and thinking my system is bigger then it actually is. I get pretty hyped up when I watch Youtube videos with guys with 15's and 18's and have well over 6000 watts of power. I just want my system to be headache free , and sound good. Not buying a HO battery will help me install everything a lot quicker.

The 2 amps I am running are an Alpine MRP-M500, and a much older Sony XM-4045, the Sony I don't think needs 4 Gauge to go to it, I was considering just running 8 gauge.But I am for sure running 4 gauge to the Alpine amp. As for the wire, my local shop has some high strand wire for $1.39 a foot. I figure I should just go with that, that way I don't have to wait, and pay for shipping.

I appreciate the reply. With my battery, it is a Walmart Battery, and I want to replace it anyway, one of the cells is dying, and it is just above 12 volts, so it is going out. I will be sure to check out Knukonceptz for some terminals.

Let me start with what I have, My truck is a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition, which means I have the 130amp Alternator. I am looking for a cheaper, but not a garbage Battery to support the system I am putting in my truck. But after looking online at some battery prices, and seeing most well over $200, I just gave up, There was no way I can afford that. I have set myself a budget of at MAXIMUM of $200, including tax, and shipping(If I need to buy online). My local shop suggested Optima, but it is out of my price range @ $240, or a High Output Interstate Battery, which only costs $150, but I have never had experience with Interstate battery's. I am honestly open to anything. My system is not SPL, I will be running 2 12inch subs, with a 500watt RMS amp, and 4 door speakers with 200watt RMS. I already plan on doing the "Big 3", so I know I can get the most out of my system and alternator. I plan on running some 4 gauge wire, unless somebody can explain why anything bigger would help, considering my system does not draw enough power to need 2, or 0 gauge wire. Plus 2, or 0 gauge is much more expensive, then 4 gauge. My third and final question is about battery terminals. I know it is much cheaper to just hook every thing up with ring terminals, bit im my honest opinion, it looks horrible, and I would like to go for a clean look. so what are some CHEAP, but not junk battery terminals I can use? Any input would be great, much thanks, Harold.

Thanks for the response, I will probably go with the RF one then, they are reasonably priced, and a good brand name. The way I got the subs though, is kinda weird.... I got them in a box, but the box has 2 separate sections for each speaker. so I don't have the same connection for both, each sub has it's own binding posts on the box. Will this affect the load on the amp? I know on my home stereo I have 2 pairs of 8 ohm speakers hooked up running at the same time, thus putting a load of 4 ohms on my amp.

Maybe it would help to post the specs on the speakers in question... I have 2 of these keep in mind, Here are the specs on them. Size: 10 Inch Impedance: 4 ohms Voice coil: Single Voice Coil RMS Power Range (In Watts): 50-250 Peak Power (In Watts): 500 I am considering the Rockford Fosgate Prime R150-2 150, but with a RMS of only 50 Watts, and a peak of 150 watts, I don't think it will be useful considering the speakers can take much more power. Or am I wrong to think this? I am still pretty new to car audio, so any help, even saying a I'm a noob, and tell me to do some research would be a start.

Now I know that my MTX 10" 6000 Series Subs are not TOTL, but I got 2 of them for $50, and they are practically new. So I figure it would be a good step to having a fairly decent system in my 1996 Ford Explorer. But I have hit a road block, I am really not sure what amp to buy to properly power these Subs. I am also on a budget, trying to keep the amp cost under $200, under $150 would be even better, so does anybody have any suggestions? Also, I don't plan on asking this one question, and leaving. I plan on doing a whole build topic for my Truck, I am just doing the research right now.