watabeast
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Posts posted by watabeast
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wait.....what...the...fuck? interesting...
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DLS x-program WB 12's
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Don't even bother until you have a proper box. It makes all the difference and you wouldn't want to go through the same thing twice would you?
God no lol. Ok building a box it is then. Wonder how the SXX 12's are gonna like 6 cu. ft each though O.o
6 cf to each? kinda much isnt it? specs say about 2 cf per is optimal
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usually if you are going for strength then as MrSkippyJ said, Both, but if you are just making sure it is sealed up, then just resin. I personally would do both if you are not sure on the structural integrity of your box.
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depends on what your definition of ruin is. It takes a hell of a lot to even crack a windshield
EDIT: its in this thread somewhere
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i feel like you can't overdue electricals...
this^^^
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At best no more than 25 percent over the idle amperage of current draw of the amps. that is what I was taught. so like say for example, you have an alt that idles at 200, your current draw from all of your amps and factory things like ac or other electronics should not be more than 250 amps. This is a general guideline, assuming that your amps eat up that much power, not taking in to account box rise and other factors.
my setup isn't like that because there is no dual alt bracket, and I don't want to remove my ac just yet to fit a 2nd alt. that is why I loaded up on the batteries, and I should actually have 1 more lifeline batt
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I would go with an alt and extra batteries...Dc power has been legit imo. Do you plan on upgrading and adding more amps? I would just go with the 270xp or dual brackets if you plan on upgrading
For batteries, I use 2 lifeline GPL-8DL agm batteries. huge suckers, but I know a ton of people use the xs power ones too
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I wouldn't go less than spec if at all possible. How much space do you have?
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electrical/wire quality
enclosures/panels
equipment
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pretty much my favorite...goes good as a dessert drink
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i think he's selling 2...just dvc 1 ohm
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the wording it is really general....i call bs because it sounds kind of off...was this texting or email?
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x cannot equal (use the equal sign with a slash) {3,-5}
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facepalm.....come on....
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I know they do make timed relays for 12v applications. I know they are are settable to really short intervals. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NATIONAL-CONTROLS-On-Delay-Relay-5DPZ7 not sure if this would work...kinda pricey too
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You can add all the batteries you want, but without a big enough alternator you will never be able to play that system for long before the voltage drops and needs to recharge.
and when this happens, the alternator will also burn out faster
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got a python 991 coming in any day now, if I can remember correctly, viper, clifford and python are all directed electronics. I suggest a 2 way pager and a piezo siren or two
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I use it on harder to reach areas such as behind bit suv panels where its big enough to fit your hand, but too small to fit deadener properly. IMO it does reduce some rattling, but not as much compared to actual deadener. I use either DAP foam, or Great stuff
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bump, call or text 808-292-2768
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lucky, its still 11pm over here in HI, http://shitmystudentswrite.tumblr.com/ theres some pretty funny stuff on here
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Looking for two 4 channel amps, one for mids and one for tweeters. The tweeter amp should be about 60-80 rms x4 at 4 ohms, and the mids amp approx 300 rms x2 at 4 ohms bridged..if amps are active capable that's a plus, but no need to be as I can run the tweeters passive. PM me a price, and we can talk.
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try burn notice, ive always liked that
tuning help
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
no bracing? or extra baffles?