One Way
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Posts posted by One Way
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This is my attempt.. not sure if it can get much better with the images I gave.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Hahaha it looks like a Hoover car
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Coming from a trunk car to my kool eclipse (better than the newbies eclipse) I don't want to ever go bak to a trunk car...,
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Is that the t line u did a while back?
nope 4th order bandpass sealed chamber below
I can't see sigs in mobile. Looks good tho
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Is that the t line u did a while back?
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I think we could have talked techy geek for hours. Lol
for some reason i picture you giggling like a little high school girl haha. good shit tho.
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Take a pic of how it currently looks like to see if there's any other possibility.
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So you would rather endanger your life vs. Making it look nice??
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I'm pretty sure if you just drill anywhere to move the seatbealts the integrity of the new location won't be strong enough to withstand the impact of a crash. If one were to occur. Also I think they specifically choose the strongest spot on the car to mount seatbealts, plus they have a lot of bracing to support any type of crash so it won't break.
Why don't you just notch the baffle around the seatbelt post, istead of trying to move it.
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if your only running one 15 and its a dual 2, you can either wire it to stay at 2 ohm or take it to 1 ohm. but if you do multiple subs, youll normally buy a dual 4
No dude, if you're only running a single d2 woofer you can only bring it down to 1 ohm in parrallel, or higher it to 4 ohms in series. You can't leave it at 2 ohms.
You can run an amp to each voicecoil or run the sub off a 2 channel amp and the load will be 2ohms
That's not a good I dea either, because if you do run an amp to each coil that means you would have to gain match the amps with the cc1. Which I assume the op doesn't have. It would work though.
On the other hand, running each coil on a 2ch amp wont be good either, because you are sending a stereo signal to each coil and the output won't be the same.
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i think hes just asking if there is a problem grounding his back battery to chasis instead of grounding it to front battery, since he doesnt have enough wire to do another run to the front.
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only way to find out is to set ur gains with a dd1. when you do the bigger build that all depends on the amp youre gona get.
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in that case you will want the d2 coils for ur sub.
they say the skars are underrated, so if you do put the whole 800 watts to the 600 watt sub be carefull its not a dirty signal, or else its bye bye sub.
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There is no difference between series and parrallel, or d4 and d2. It's only there to let you adjust the type of amp you can run to the subs.
Actually yes there is.
i understand there is differences between them all, but i think for his sake it doesnt matter as much. besides being able to keep up the electrical by running smaller ohm loads, and the thermal rise as the ohm load drops.
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I just noticed my previous statement was off, so il make it simpler. Say you have a 1000 watt d2 sub and you are looking to power it. You would either look for an amp that can do 1000 watts at 1 ohm, or and amp that can do 1000 watts at 4 ohms (generally those are more expensive)
Hope that makes sense.
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There is no difference between series and parrallel, or d4 and d2. It's only there to let you adjust the type of amp you can run to the subs.
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if your only running one 15 and its a dual 2, you can either wire it to stay at 2 ohm or take it to 1 ohm. but if you do multiple subs, youll normally buy a dual 4
No dude, if you're only running a single d2 woofer you can only bring it down to 1 ohm in parrallel, or higher it to 4 ohms in series. You can't leave it at 2 ohms.
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Yeah I know about the mirror, it moves a lot right now with my blown 12. I can hear it vibrate and hit against the windshield, matter of time till it starts cracking.
Can't seem to find a way to get it off, but il do it eventually.
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Ok, thank you ray I appreciate the help. Even after I looked dumb attempting to design the 4th order.
I will do a ported box to your recommendations.
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Was hoping it wouldn't come to building a ported. Main reason why I bought the 10s to try out a 4th, but oh well I guess.
So what would be an ideal ported box for a low musical box?
**Side note ray I asked a question on your help thread.
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Dang that big? I was hoping to get away with a smaller box because the eclipses don't have that much room.
Is there a certain point you start with, when designing a 4th order??
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I understand that but I'm just using winisd as a guide, I kno it will act different in the car.
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I recently bought some type Rs from a member on here. I always wanted to try a 4th order and this seemed like the perfect time. Im having a little trouble with the frequency bandwidth for the bandpass. I need more help on designing one and need to know what i should shoot for when i plot the curves on the graph. I would like to have a flat response, but typically the db gain is lower, so as flat as possible.
would like to play lows pretty good and still be loud.
i know Winisd does not take cabin gain into account.
car its goin into is a 01 eclipse
two 10" type Rs
YELLOW curve is 1:1 ratio 44 hertz. 1.25/1.25 cubes
AQUA curve is ~ 2:1 ratio 42 hertz. 2/1.25 cubes
PINK curve is ~ 2:1 ratio 44 hertz. .78/1.73 cubes (this is the flatest response i could get it but yields small output)
any help please enlighten me as i dont know anything...
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u need to lower that bish now ryan.