daniel1204
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Posts posted by daniel1204
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Hope you didnt pay a lot for them.
They'll work fine, just not worth what you paid (if retail) probably.
Nah i know that they retail for $200USD each which is crazy in my opinion according to a review, these cost me $50 AUD each so im not dissapointed i will be upgrading next year when i have finished school and have a bigger budget
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Hey everyone I have these subs what do you guys think, Theyre 1500w max 500w rms CEA 2031 speaker rating each.
Here are some photos they apparently have Dual strontium ferrite magnets i dont even know what that would affect
S.E.T. (Spider Exhaust Technology) cooling
Rear vented pole piece
Aluminium die-cast frame and cooling spacer for higher power handling
Kevlar/paper composite cone design
Reinforced FRP / Paper cone design
Nitrile butadiene rubber high excursion surround
Linear poly-cotton spider with integrated tinsel leads
None of this really means much to me but maybe some of you will know what it is haha.
Here are the photos
Cheers
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Anyone this a good amp??
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I don't know how much new zealand dollars compare to American dollars but I think $8o for a true 1000w amp is an awesome deal. It does take 4g wire so that's a good sign. What is the fuse rating on it? I think it should be like 8o amps. Too lazy to do the math.
Yeah roughly lol
My bad but I meant I was gonna run 2 Amps at 300wrms each 1 for each sub but my mate diddent want this so I will sell the other 2 but yeah I have the required voltage so all good I was just making sure it's not really bad but yeah with the current dollar the American and Australian dollar it's about the same so I think it's a good deal. And I can't see any fuses which is weird is this bad? Cause the other Amps have 2 30amp fuses and they're low power dunno why this one wouldn't have one it has 3 way protection but that is no reason for it to not have external fuses I'm a bit confused
So you wanna wire 2 amps to 1 sub? And you have 2 subs?
Still a lil confused lol
Sorry but i meant i have 2 DVC subs 500w Rms I Have 2 amps to run them cause they are only stable at 2 ohms 1 sub per amp. But now i will use this amp for both cause it is stable at 1 ohm and is 1000w rms @1ohm so all is good i just wasent sure about the amp never heard of them before but oh well give it a shot
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My bad but I meant I was gonna run 2 Amps at 300wrms each 1 for each sub but my mate diddent want this so I will sell the other 2 but yeah I have the required voltage so all good I was just making sure it's not really bad but yeah with the current dollar the American and Australian dollar it's about the same so I think it's a good deal. And I can't see any fuses which is weird is this bad? Cause the other Amps have 2 30amp fuses and they're low power dunno why this one wouldn't have one it has 3 way protection but that is no reason for it to not have external fuses I'm a bit confused
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http://www.voltelectronics.co.nz/response-1000wrms-linkable-car-monoblock-amplifier.html forgot to add the link sorry
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I was going to run 2 cheap Amos for 2 subs that are 500w Rms dvc 4 ohm coils so on this amp it will be at 1 ohm the 2 Amps are 300w Rms at 2 ohm so this will be good but it has some weird adjustments can you tell me what they do ??
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wait, you grounded your amp to the headunit?
your in melb, hit up lunchbox im sure he could teach you what to do
No no no i fully understand how to do a legit install my mates car is so badly done it amuses me that it even works i am yet to get my car i will very soon so i wanted to test one of my amps and one of my subs for fun and it got hot but it sounds like in my car that wont be an issue. Just his cause its really badly done.
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Yeah well i had one to test in my mates system i wired in my amp his install is very bad and i refuse to fix it for him cause he wants me to sell him all my wiring that i have ready for mine cheap as and he thinks he knows everything. And the ground is soldiered onto some black wire on the headunit which is earth but is the size of a headphone wire. And is car has a very bad power supply but this is mabye why, so low volts is a bad thing i never knew that. I Will do mine properly and this should help i hope its not a big deal i was just curious and there are some very good answers that come off this site. Cheers
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I Have 2 clarion DVC subs and 2 amps that are stable at 2 ohms the subs have 2 4 ohm voice coils, My amp get reasonably hot when running it has a thermal protection circuit it never turns off. Is it normal for amps to get hot?? and is it possible for subs to be actually lower than the rated impedance, Other than that theory what could cause an amp to get hot?
Thanks in advance
Daniel
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I am so so so confused about what just happend I understand the car may restrict power but like most systems won't a direct power wire prevent this the ecu can restrict that ?? Plus my subs are 500w Rms each not an insane system yet and 2 500w Rms Amps I was planning on going 4 gauge and then t split that into 2 8 gauge wires for the Amps and 2 separate grounds obviously??? Or will I need a Dedecated system battery ?
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Well if you would like to go all out here is your Info, the old xbox consoles output 12v at like 20amps I have t stacked and soldierd together to get 12v at 40 amps not amazing but it works and I had my spare pioneer monoblock and pioneer sub at 400w Rms 12" In my room and also the xbox 360 power bricks are 12v 16.5 amps I also have one of these running a 4 channel amp with 4 3 way tower speakers at 90w Rms each it's good fun my family hate it
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Yeah I know Holden commodore wagons are a rare thing except the new ones but I am no where near one if those and actually even a ford which is more common to make manuals don't even have many manual wagons around and I found some at like 300,000kms I was like yeh nah so the suby will be good
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you'll always get more loudness out of hatch/wagon style vehicles. From what I understand you'll get more SQ out of them too vs trunks.... Less wave interference period. 9 times out of 10 I'm sure you'll gain in SQ and loudness in a wagon vs trunk. I'm sure if I put my current setup in a hatch it would be close to 150 lol
post pics of what you do! subies!
Yeah i will and i assume many questions in between that point but i like she subarus cause they are easy to get in a manual not to small as a wagon comparted to a hatch and are not too big so im winning
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Hey everyone i am getting a car soon and i am deffinataly putting my 2 12" Subs in it is there a best car shape for sound systems not just Loudness\SPL and SQ, E.g Wagon sedan hatchback..... i Was thinking a subaru impreza rx wagon manual cause this i a small wagon and the box will just fit what you guys think??
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My sub on the ported box specs requests tuning of 33hz im guessing this will be best for my subs like good output and frequency response best of both worlds which is what i want in a ported box, If i am wrong correct me haha
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And what do lower and higher tuning frequencies affect the sound like the difference between 25hz 35hz ad 50hz in a ported box whats the difference???
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My subs are basic Clarion 1500w max 500w rms DVC subs i have 2 it has an exact ported box design with it and i know a professional box maker that get is all cut by computer like the spec sheet has tuning freq and port length with box thickness if i get this built i am assuming it will sound good but sealed seems simple but if i get someone really experienced to build it i am assuming it will be amazing but i am still skeptical cause i have never witnessed it working well but you guys are the experts not me im still learning.
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Yeah i am not sure yet i was only testing them free air but i think there is not a massive difference i am still to decide on what box to get built.
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I have heard some crap ported boxes and that has turned me off them completely, Is it Possible to get sealed SQ While maintaining maximum output from my subs. It seems thats i would rather go sealed to save the hassle. But i may give ported a try but ive never heard a ported box properly designed for that particular sub. The only ones ive heard are prefab Will the custom porperly tuned one be much better? My subs have recommended ported and sealed box specs with a tuning frequency of 33hz i cant remember off the top of my head is 33 hertz a good tuning freq?
Cause i know that SPL Boxes are much higher and i don't like the sound but they are not designed for SQ just output so thats not an issue for them
Cheers
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Btw the link is crappy Everyone use this one it is for the mobile site :/
And thats not bad for 2 8" woofers nice work
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Yeah alright I'll leave it at zero then
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What Causes Amps to get hot ?
in Amplifiers
Posted
Hey everyone my mate got a new amp for his sub because he said his got too hot while he was driving, S i got it of him cheap its 1000wrms at 1 ohm i have 2 subs tht are 4 ohm dvc so this is fine so i tested it out in my house today using a 12v power supply its not equivalent to a car battery but sure enough the amp gt hot never shut down but it was only running one sub at 2 ohm and i assume it will get hotter at 1 ohm?? Does poor amount of power cause amps to overheat or is the amp just like that?? I Used an infared temp gun and got about 42-46c (113f) For USA, is this bad or do amps just run hot the amp has a thermal protection so if this does not engage i assume no damage will be done i am just curious to see what happens at 1 ohm
Cheers