Jump to content

Jesseland

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Jesseland

  1. Yes they are rated 600 watts, how much power do you plan on running?

    1000 watts, you think it would sound better/louder than an FI SSD?

    I have no experience with the ssd so I couldn't say, but a SA 12 imo is the best you can get for under 200 brand new. It should get plenty loud on 1000 watts, but I would suggest running a slightly smaller box around 2 cubic feet.

    Alright thanks for the input, you think it'd still sound good at 33/34hz? cause ive read they like lower tuning around 27 or 28

  2. First is this a good deal? Not familiar with SA products but i hear theyre good

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/SA-12D2-SUNDOWN-AUDIO-12-DVC-2-OHM-SA-SUBWOOFER-SUB-/130420415089?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item1e5da99a71#ht_4905wt_1037

    What is the RMS? Cause theyre website doesnt say and these people say 600 but im not sure its correct.

    How would it sound in a 2.5cf box (after displacements) tuned to 34hz?

    and also how would it compare to an FI SSD 12? Im looking for SQ with some spl. Thanks

  3. 2nd Battery in, amp (Kicker ZX1000.1) mounted up top:

    IMG_20110929_120326.jpg

    Bare box 3.6cf @ 34hz.

    IMG_20110929_121151.jpg

    Primed:

    IMG_20110929_155855.jpg

    At this point i wish i would have 45'd the top face plate:

    IMG_20110929_192240.jpg

    Sub in, with direct connect leads:

    IMG_20110929_232343.jpg

    IMG_20110929_232359.jpg

    Where it will be chained thru (on both sides):

    IMG_20110929_232406.jpg

    Inside was fiberglass'd also:

    IMG_20110929_232413.jpg

    All In:

    IMG_20110930_121106.jpg

    Box is only 3.6cf (3.4 after displacement of sub) Wish i could have made it bigger but it still sounds clean and i like it alot.

    Lemme know what you guys think :)

  4. The computer instructs the alternator to drop from 14.5 volts to 12.5 (ie. not charging the battery) when all of the following are true:

    - Load below 10A

    - Speed below 40 MPH

    - Engine speed below 3600 RPM

    - Coolant temp above 140 F

    - A/C off

    - Intake air temp above 65 F

    - Brake switch off

    - Fuel cut-off not active

    turn your AC on

    Wow that helped alot, thanks man! I didnt think about the A/c.

    I live in florida so i usually have the A/c blasting, but the past few days ive had the windows down a/c off cause its getting cooler out.

  5. Hey guys, i know im new but i never post here cause whenever i need to know something i just search these forums and find an answer, but i cant find one for this issue.

    So i have all stock electrical (Minus a 2nd batt in the trunk) In a 2010 Civic.

    And for my newest system i finally got a digital voltmeter in the dash.

    And i didn't notice it the first few days, mainly cause i wasnt looking at it i assume.

    But lately when driving it will drop from 14.3ish to 12.3ish for no reason, music on or off.

    Like today and yesterday i was idling testing my new box/sub and everything. It was all running fine at 14v, i turned the stereo off and drove away, and as soon as i accelerated a little it dropped from 14v to 12v for no reason. I pull over again it stays at 12v, i accelerate and sometimes it jumps right back to 14, and others it stays at 12 till i stop again. Weird

    Then later ill start my car, starts at 14, drive (with no music) and drops down to low 12's again. Driving around town it decides what it wants to do, at 12 or 14, jumps back and forth ( again with no music) but on highway it seems to like 14v i noticed.

    Im not sure if some of the diodes are burnt up in my stock alt (70 or 80 amp btw) or 1 of the 2 batterys are having probs.

    But i did do some research and found something called ELD circuit, which hondas have to regulate the voltage. Not sure what this is, if i have to bypass it or what.

    Any and all input would be appreciated! Thanks guys.

×
×
  • Create New...