Jesseland

34229. DC lvl 4 12"

1000 watts, you think it would sound better/louder than an FI SSD? I have no experience with the ssd so I couldn't say, but a SA 12 imo is the best you can get for under 200 brand new. It should get plenty loud on 1000 watts, but I would suggest running a slightly smaller box around 2 cubic feet. Alright thanks for the input, you think it'd still sound good at 33/34hz? cause ive read they like lower tuning around 27 or 28

1000 watts, you think it would sound better/louder than an FI SSD?

whoops dp lol

First is this a good deal? Not familiar with SA products but i hear theyre good http://www.ebay.com/itm/SA-12D2-SUNDOWN-AUDIO-12-DVC-2-OHM-SA-SUBWOOFER-SUB-/130420415089?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item1e5da99a71#ht_4905wt_1037 What is the RMS? Cause theyre website doesnt say and these people say 600 but im not sure its correct. How would it sound in a 2.5cf box (after displacements) tuned to 34hz? and also how would it compare to an FI SSD 12? Im looking for SQ with some spl. Thanks

Got my answer, mods please delete, Thanks.

I wanted to but i wasnt too sure how to go about it so i didnt bother. I was in a big rush to get the box done, i thought it would look fine as it was, apparently not haha.

2nd Battery in, amp (Kicker ZX1000.1) mounted up top: Bare box 3.6cf @ 34hz. Primed: At this point i wish i would have 45'd the top face plate: Sub in, with direct connect leads: Where it will be chained thru (on both sides): Inside was fiberglass'd also: All In: Box is only 3.6cf (3.4 after displacement of sub) Wish i could have made it bigger but it still sounds clean and i like it alot. Lemme know what you guys think

Hahah same here man.

Wow that helped alot, thanks man! I didnt think about the A/c. I live in florida so i usually have the A/c blasting, but the past few days ive had the windows down a/c off cause its getting cooler out.

Nope, just ran 4AWG from the 1st batt's + post to the back. Is there anyways to bypass it? Would big 3 help at all?(Im assuming not tho)

I dont think so, i checked it out and it seems fine. Got 22k miles on the belt. Not sure when i need to replace those tho haha

Hey im having the same exact issue in my 2010 Civic. Just posted a thread right before i saw this one. Im getting random drops from 14.3ish to 12.2ish for no reason, stereo on or off.

Hey guys, i know im new but i never post here cause whenever i need to know something i just search these forums and find an answer, but i cant find one for this issue. So i have all stock electrical (Minus a 2nd batt in the trunk) In a 2010 Civic. And for my newest system i finally got a digital voltmeter in the dash. And i didn't notice it the first few days, mainly cause i wasnt looking at it i assume. But lately when driving it will drop from 14.3ish to 12.3ish for no reason, music on or off. Like today and yesterday i was idling testing my new box/sub and everything. It was all running fine at 14v, i turned the stereo off and drove away, and as soon as i accelerated a little it dropped from 14v to 12v for no reason. I pull over again it stays at 12v, i accelerate and sometimes it jumps right back to 14, and others it stays at 12 till i stop again. Weird Then later ill start my car, starts at 14, drive (with no music) and drops down to low 12's again. Driving around town it decides what it wants to do, at 12 or 14, jumps back and forth ( again with no music) but on highway it seems to like 14v i noticed. Im not sure if some of the diodes are burnt up in my stock alt (70 or 80 amp btw) or 1 of the 2 batterys are having probs. But i did do some research and found something called ELD circuit, which hondas have to regulate the voltage. Not sure what this is, if i have to bypass it or what. Any and all input would be appreciated! Thanks guys.