mattc3366
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Posts posted by mattc3366
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Ok thanks man. I appreciate all the help. My voltage gets at a low of 13 when slowing down at red lights and stuff and slowly goes back up to 13.8 while stopped. So my voltage isn't crazy bad.
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So I would have no problem stressing my alternator by hooking up the trunk battery and leaving it?
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Yea. I wont be playing it with the car off. Only when driving. And just wanna make sure the voltage won't drop crazy low while parked overnight. Im not sure how these batteries work compared to normal ones.
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Would the voltage drop low overnight with them both hooked up?
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alright thanks guys. ill have to look into what cadence is rated for and for a daily driver and only listening to my system while driving the batts wouldnt drop crazy low right? and would the smaller kinetik battery in the back work fine or should i go with the xs power?
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alright guys im running an aq1200 and a pheonix gold zx450. sub amp is 1200 rms and 4 channel is 75x4. my under hood battery is small and i also have a 1 farad cap in the back with both amps hooked to it. my buddy wants to buy a cap so i was thinking of selling him mine and getting a kinectic or xs power battery for the back ( or front ) so here are my questions.
1. will adding a battery in the trunk cause additional stress to the alt?
2. how would i wire the battery in the back? front + to the rear + and just ground the back battery in the trunk?
3. should i use this under the hood? http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Battery-and-Power-Cells/XS-Power-D680-1000-Amp-AGM-Power-Cell-Car-Audio-Battery--Terminal-Hardware/D680.aspx
or do something smaller in the trunk like this and keep my stock battery? http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Battery-and-Power-Cells/Kinetik-KHC600B-Power-Cell-Car-Audio-Battery-System,-High-Current,-600w-HC600B/HC600B.aspx
4. will a 200 amp fuse be good for my big 3 upgrade? i have a stock alt and ill be using cadence 1/0 gauge for my big 3 wires
i think thats all my questions... for now lol. just trying to get everything set up correct and not break the bank if possible. thanks in advance for any answers !
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Yea that saw you are talking about is not accurate for finish work. My lowes has a sign on it saying it will not be accurate to 1/16 of an inch or something like that. Then it also comes down to if the guy cutting it cares about getting it perfect for you or not.
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My only advice is to have lowes cut your pieces about an inch bigger and trim to final measurements on your own. I wish I had done that lol
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O ok! So the port in there now you would pull out as far as possible and then turn it to get the bend of the port out?
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Dam that's looking really good. Nice box! How does the interchangeable port work?
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Another way I was thinking is what if you faded all to the rear and unplugged the rear speakers because those are the easiest to access? Would this work too?
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I would make a new sealed box so each sub has its own chamber and im not sure if the way you wired it is correct. I've never heard of anyone doing that. Make a new box and do like everyone said and put two subs on one amp and one on the other. Best bet is to get matching subs and one amp to run them
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Looking good for your first system! Looks clean. Maybe in the future build a ported box for them if your looking for output. I just built my first ported box and I love it
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Get a distribution block and get a 4 channel amp and keep the mono.
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Everyone I know had trouble connecting and youtube is in the coming soon section. Lets hope it doesn't take forever!
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Just patch it up if you don't care for looks.
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I would go with the fosgate and make your own ported box for it.
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Is the box ported or sealed? If sealed I think there should be a divider. And if there dual 4s you do one set going to the speaker and do positive to positive negative to negative and jump the positive to the other positive and negative to the other negative. And repeat for the 2nd sub.
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Good luck to the winners! I was trying to win one and a swear to god my computer froze on that chicken hill video but I was only like 1:30 in lol
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Just keep playing around with numbers until you get 33hz . That's what I did when I was playing around with it.
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Yea man I like em. Only problem is I don't think I can fit a ported box for them in my trunk and I think my box is wayyyy to small right now so it chokes up on the low end. It makes a weird noise.
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in the video you can hear my trunk rattling pretty bad outside the car. so i decided to get some sound deadener. i went with 25sq ft of audio technix 80 mil sound deadener
i could tell a huge difference inside my car with this stuff in there, it works great. it was fairly easy to put on. ill make another video tomorrow with the deadener in.
any advice on my system will be awesome!
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alright guys. thought id show what i have in my car for you guys to check out. this could be considered my first "serious" system. i really wanna upgrade when i get a new car in the summer but this is what i got :
i have three 12' eclipse aluminums (only two installed), jl 500/1, stinger 1/0 gauge wiring, 1 farad cap, and a small stock battery up front.
i bought one of the eclipse subs in a 1.5 cu ft sealed box with the jl amp and all the wiring for 200 bucks to replace my two 12' fosgate p2s and 600 watt fosgate amp.
i then bought the other two subs for 175 in a sealed box and each sub now is only getting a little over 1 cu ft.
12.8 volts because my car wasnt on!
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hey guys. heres a quick vid of my subs in a small ass sealed box. getting about 1 cu ft per sub. feedback is greatly appreciated!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mattc3366V2?blend=1&ob=5#p/a/u/0/hrxV0Ma6vdA
PS. im not sure how to get the actual video in the post so if someone could tell me please let me know and ill edit my post ! thanks !
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lots of electrical noobie ?'s!
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
While driving the lowest I think I've seen is 13.6 and that was at night. So now what battery should I get?