Wicks
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Posts posted by Wicks
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Hmm, none that I can think of offhand.
There are solutions though.
Fosgate makes a Line Driver module that will output differential signals.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/rf-bld
Or you can get an external processor (360.3) that does the same.
Not that many people like buying extra equipment but there are options.
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You won't be able to tell from the specs unless they specifically mention differential inputs.
Some companies advertise it, some don't.
They are generally used in higher end amps since there is more circuitry involved which filters out common mode noise and gives you a larger/cleaner input signal.
Any reputable company should have a technical support team that can tell you if their product supports a differential signal.
If they can't or won't...walk away.
Also keep in mind that your device (HU) sending the signal MUST output a differential signal for the noise cancellation to work.
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Love it when companies who make quality products aren't afraid to show off the guts!
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DAMN Cody, you guys are tearing it up.
Quickly becoming THE one stop shop for everything quality that a car audio enthusiast could want.
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It's not like he would listen to reason, debate properly, or have an objective goal. He already said he was done in this thread and it probably had a lot to do with swimming in deep waters without the intelligence or experience to back up his idiotic remarks.
^^^This
So apparently I got under his skin more than I've ever seen before.
In the early AM, after my post about him in this thread, he started a thread on one of the Colorado Facebook groups asking who this "Wicks" guy was that talked bad about him...
Then he performed a creepy internet search for me and found my real name. O_o
So we've spent the past 2 days going back and forth with no resolution whatsoever...
You're right, there is no possibility of reasoning or debating him.
He says a couple sentences and then insults you like a teenager.
I can appreciate and respect somebody with a different viewpoint if they can debate you like an adult, but this guy is something else..... SMH
Sorry for off tracking this thread a bit but I wanted to put that out there.
I'm done with this guy, there's no point...
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so I can buy all those tools and a concrete bucket or 1 single tool?
geez, tough choice. but I do see that guys point, this isn't the only tool that works. But, I will let him use the concrete bucket...
I understand what he is saying as well, just giving him a hard time. Jokes aside, even if that setup worked, you would then know how many VA your amplifier can put out into a bucket of concrete. Still wouldn't tell you how many Watts your amplifier puts into your SPEAKERS
say what? That's exactly what your dyno does. Uses a purely resistive load to measure power output in watts....
Last time I checked a coil of wire is an Inductor, not a resistor. I think you are confusing it with this http://www.rexresearch.com/davis/davis.htm
Oh snap Tony doesn't know what bifilar winding is. rofl. it's as close as you can get to a completely resistive load with magnet wire.
Well of course Ben, most everyday car audio guys know what a bifilar coil is and can just whip one up or run down to the local audio shop to get one, right...........? SMH
If somebody wanted their own Dyno then I wold envision them buying some power resistors like this:
Sure they'll be a bit inductive but for a DIY'er its fine.
Or they could step up to these which are used in the AD-1:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231032379691?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Or get an AD-1 if you're able to. Or find one locally. CJ18 has gladly taken requests to Dyno peoples amps and he doesn't insult people because they don't have "bifilar coils" in their garages.....
You throwing around these obscure terms doesn't make you look more intelligent, and the constant insults to everyone around your definitely doesn't help you image either.
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You won't find one N8. If you search his history on CACO or character in general he's the epitome of read, hear, and repeat but no first hand knowledge or experience. Not to mention an incredible disdain for SMD, the forum and person, and Damore. I don't say this to stir the pot, I say it because once you realize the true nature you can remove the facade of objectivity. He even made a thread asking why people used getting loud as a rebuttal in debates and why doesn't someone who doesn't compete or get loud get taken seriously.
I'm honestly surprised he's here at all.
I can see the point being made and know Cody will step up yo the plate. I know people who test things in their own like myself or Taylor can sympathize how much effort goes into helping and people can seem ungrateful. I love the AMM 1 as I didn't have to pay more money since I no longer work in a custom shop.
Just found something that I thought everybody would be interested in.
Yesterday while Ben (SINTORMAN) was in this thread trolling, check out what he wrote on a Colorado Car Audio Facebook Group:
This is a thread about clamping power at a competition....
Interesting that on an SMD forum he's going through every effort to push a complicated clamping solution that involves everything except an SMD product.
On the same night, on a FB group, he appears to be OK with suggesting the AMM1.
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you guys realise the answer you get when u just multiply voltage X current is a peak number right. If you multiply for rms which means taking the peak figure and then multiply by .707 you will get 651. also.
therefore the clamp isnt incorrect at all.
at the end of the day how can the clamp and multimeter be wrong ohms law has never changed. even if the dmm and clamp is crap the figure wont be off by a mile.
just my 2 bits i can be wrong. this is just my opinion.
Most handheld meters already measure RMS, not peak. So there's no need to multiply by 0.707 unless you're looking at peak numbers from an o-scope.
Ohms Law is fine.......for DC. Doesn't directly apply for AC (amplifier output).
Tony has a whole string of vids to teach people the basics:
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so.... clamp testing is no good? highly think that's not true. bin there for years and smd stuff not made to long ago not saying smd is crap but highly doubt in my head that people that do this for a job to check there electricity and all around industrial areas going to say its not going to read you the right rms coming from one thing... just saying for people who don't use it for car audio I highly would think there readings are wrong.
Soooooooo you're saying that a lead designer from Rockford Fosgate doesn't know how to measure the output from an amplifier correctly....?
I would suggest some research before you make accusations...
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Vodka/mountain dew's right now. I'm gonna check out what you did. I may hit you up for more info
Cool! No problem.
Damn...I love Mt Dew but would never mix it with booze.
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Sounds like you need an o-scope in your dash........
Hey, tony keeps coming out with cool stuff all the time. I have no idea it it's something that would be hard to detect or display. And for all I know it would be something the deck would have to detect.
I hear what you're saying, same reason why I put an o-scope in my dash to look for the same thing.
Make it affordable and show me how, I'd do it.
Check my build log.
My o-scope was only about ~$50 or so, plus it needs a resistor divider network to reduce the voltage from the amp.
Tapping into the RCA's might be easier.
Tapping RCA's was what I was thinking might be possible
People on this forum keep making me wanna try stuff cause they put the knowledge out there. I will look at your build log and look for this. I just looked at your build, I have no idea how I didn't go through the whole build. I will check it all out tomorrow when the sun is up. to much vodka to read right now
HAHA, I'm a few vodkas deep myself. Gotta get that tolerance up for tomorrow night
My o-scope is connected to my DC5K so I can see directly what the subs see.
Monitoring the RCAs would be easier but there's always that possibility that the amp(s) are also clipping the signal (for whatever reason) so you might miss something.
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Sounds like you need an o-scope in your dash........
Hey, tony keeps coming out with cool stuff all the time. I have no idea it it's something that would be hard to detect or display. And for all I know it would be something the deck would have to detect.
I hear what you're saying, same reason why I put an o-scope in my dash to look for the same thing.
Make it affordable and show me how, I'd do it.
Check my build log.
My o-scope was only about ~$50 or so, plus it needs a resistor divider network to reduce the voltage from the amp.
Tapping into the RCA's might be easier.
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Sounds like you need an o-scope in your dash........
Hey, tony keeps coming out with cool stuff all the time. I have no idea it it's something that would be hard to detect or display. And for all I know it would be something the deck would have to detect.
I hear what you're saying, same reason why I put an o-scope in my dash to look for the same thing.
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Wire it to the RCA outputs on your head unit. Would only work at "full tilt" though
Ya, that sounds like a pain. I was hoping for a cool digital read out with -db on the screen would be badass. Like it could be detected no matter what the volume is.
Sounds like the OM-1.
Digital display won't work as music is too dynamic but the analog display on the OM-1 should work for this.
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Sounds like you need an o-scope in your dash........
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Misconceptions and the arguments that follow from the "experts".....
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Sweet!
Crank it higher!!!!!!!!!!!!
lol... thanks chief.
Actually, i had a failure. My push buttons on the display, failed.
Im hearing they had a "bad batch" get through.
I got one. I was lucky enought to get it adjusted some what to where i wanted, before the push buttons took
a shit.
So, i am locked in at 14.7-14.8
But, the display is stuck on ADJ (adjust). But, it is still keeping the alt at the setting i entered.
I have a RGA number from XS, and Mike is suppose to be sending me a new display unit.
I would rather have the display reading the voltage.. LOL.
So, yes, a bad "something" about the unit. Sorry, but, i had to say something?!?!!? Had to be fair.
BUMMER.........
At least it didn't crap out on you while you were "trying" a higher voltage which you'd be stuck at.
14.7 is a cozy voltage to be stuck with.
I know I accidentally cranked my adjustable regulator up to 16V once....
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Sweet!
Crank it higher!!!!!!!!!!!!
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0dB is your full output with no attenuation.
3dB is double/half power.
-5dB is 5dB lower then full output.
So well less then half the power.
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Nice pics!
Love to see a vendor who's not afraid and proud to show their guts!
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Love the idea of an SMD - DC collaboration!
Tuned for sure!
Those color matched dust caps are SWEET.
Can't wait to see more.
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...Changing the game. Love it!
Very cool new product.
There's going to be a LOT of mad "clampers" out there.
I agree, having it connect to a computer to log the data would be nice.
How about something more simple. A USB port on the AMM-1 that logs the data and stores it to a CSV file on the attached flash stick?
You could then take the flash stick to your computer later and plot the data in Excel.
I would assume that writing all that data would slow down the measurements so it might have to be implemented differently, but it'd be a nice feature anyway.
Am I the only one who's curious about the green circuit board with the many RCA connections in the video?
BTW, awesome that you incorporated Tesla in the video and your products.
Weird dude, but a genius nonetheless!
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Differential Signal Amplifiers.
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
Posted
If you have noise that you need to get rid of then they could definitely be worth it.
If your (unbalanced) signals are clean and you you're happy with it then no its probably not worth it, unless you want some of the other features of the device.