Wicks
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Posts posted by Wicks
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I could clamp mine if youre really curious, but like Kyle mentioned, it's tiny.
Well << 1amp.
It's just a couple measurement ICs and the LEDs which draw very little current.
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Pioneer 4300 dvd Focal k2 comps on rockerfosgate power 400.4
2 ssa gcon 10s on dc2k on 3 batteries. Shit sounds like someone talking threw a megaphone with loud off. Like no tweets an bass weak. Hit loud button then ir will sound great i check with dd1 an no distortion
I think there may be an underlying problem man. There is no way with the list you're giving should the loudness make the system sound better. Hmmmm.
^^Agreed.
Your list of equipment should sound great with no Loud button or other boosting/tweaking.
Have you started at the HU only with the DD-1 and worked your way down the system?
Are the settings truly flat? Any other processing modes or features turned on?
Do you have another HU to try instead of the 4300?
Maybe even an iPod, just to utilize a clean signal.
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In a nutshell, you want to make sure that you are not driving your input signal past clipping.
The DD-1 is a great tool to find your clipping point but its limited to only two frequency's.
Therefore if you boost outside of those two frequency's, you run the risk of accidentally clipping.
The best tools to absolutely guarantee that you're not clipping would be a frequency generator and an O-scope.
With those, you could sweep the entire frequency band and monitor your output signal live and tell if your boosted settings are causing clipping.
BUT that is rather expensive to do.
distortion happens BEFORE clipping so ill take the DD-1 over an O-scope any day....even if my name wasn't on it.
don't confuse people here. The DD-1 "works on two frequencies" only because those are the frequencies we reference on our disc. That has absolutely NOTHING to do with the other frequencies that are played during actual use.
you make it sound like "you are good to go at 40hz and 1000hz but fucked if you play anything else"....which is totally bogus. Other people seem to think that too, i have no idea why.
Confusion not intended, sorry Sir.
I am in no way implying that an O-scope is better then a DD-1. I have a DD-1 and love it. I also have access to a very nice O-scope as well and I always use the DD-1.
The point I was trying to make was that it would be difficult to tell if you had distortion if your DD-1 was looking at 40Hz and you were boosting at another frequency at the same time or afterwards.
There are a lot of people who suggest to tune the system with the EQ already set. I was just trying to explain how that could be troublesome.
I absolutely agree to tune with the settings flat and go from there, cutting and not boosting.
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The DD-1 can only look for distortion at 40Hz and 1kHz.
Therefore you need to set all the levels flat so that you are adjusting your entire frequency band to the point of 1% distortion (clipping).
If you boost, then that frequency range could easily start clipping while the other frequency's are OK.
If you knew that your boosted frequency was directly at 40Hz then you could use the DD-1 to monitor it.
"Loudness" is a volume dependent boosting feature. You get more boost at lower volumes. As you turn up the volume, the amount of boost decreases as its not needed anymore.
As long as you knew that at your max usable volume, the Loudness boost was no longer preset then you should be fine, but all Loudness features are probably different and I haven't really looked at a response curve for one to know for sure.
In a nutshell, you want to make sure that you are not driving your input signal past clipping.
The DD-1 is a great tool to find your clipping point but its limited to only two frequency's.
Therefore if you boost outside of those two frequency's, you run the risk of accidentally clipping.
The best tools to absolutely guarantee that you're not clipping would be a frequency generator and an O-scope.
With those, you could sweep the entire frequency band and monitor your output signal live and tell if your boosted settings are causing clipping.
BUT that is rather expensive to do.
If you're that concerned about it, you could check your local audio shop and see if they could perform such a service?
I would hope that a quality shop would contain a frequency generator, o-scope, RTA, etc...
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(((Ahh thats the issue. Glue by itself is not quite enough. Even brad nails are better that nothing. But you want something to help hold it. Another option when you cant use screws is those little wood dials that you drill for and insert. That at least gives some support. But if it were me I'd add some steel
)))>>>actually if u properly clamp glued a boxed together it will be much much stronger than nails or screws. my buddy dave built a box for my friend and he did not use a single nail or screws, ill tell u what 3 years later and still 5k and still the same as the first they he got it. actually he builds all his boxes this way and ships them all over the US and not one problem he ever had of it coming apart, just glue and proper techniques.<<<
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Finally some one said it, PROPER glue joint is better then screws or nails or mechanical fasteners..
except some of you guys that do huge steel plates...nothing bettr then that lol.
Wicks I think your on the right track in your build log. Fixing shit is much harder then doing it right the first time...next time I bet you do a nice dado, or dowels or something lol.
Yep, I do agree, a solid glue joint should be much stronger than screws.
Mine should have been pretty solid but maybe I didn't coat that connection point with enough glue.
It could also be that the angle of my baffle contributed to the joint braking loose over time...
Ohhhh yeah, next time I'll definitely be bracing the baffle with much more then a glue joint, that's for sure.
I ended up adding some screws to my front baffle since I couldn't remove the baffle and completely redo the glue joint.
So the screws are there for some extra structural strength to hopefully help keep the baffle from moving.
Not ideal, but fixing stuff never is.
The added fiberglass at that joint should also help as well.
For those interested, check out my build log (in my signature) for the fixes I'm attempting.
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Very nice!!!
Any examples of what's possible with the spoked 12" basket?
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TB3 sucks imo.
I've torn apart boxes with it, doesn't work nearly as good as TB2 imo.
Interesting point.
I may have to try some out instead of the TB3.
Waterproofing shouldn't be an issue inside my trunk.
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Ahh thats the issue. Glue by itself is not quite enough. Even brad nails are better that nothing. But you want something to help hold it. Another option when you cant use screws is those little wood dials that you drill for and insert. That at least gives some support. But if it were me I'd add some steel
Only glue. I had pocket holes drilled, but wasn't getting the screws to bite and grab like I needed them to so I scrapped that idea and just glued.Glue only or did you nail/staple or screw it as well?
Looks like I'll probly be trying to retrofit some screws back into the baffle now.
Plus some other things to strengthen it.
In the future, if I ever have another angled baffle, I'll be designing it with more stability then just a glue joint.
I figured a glued double baffle would be sufficient, but I clearly underestimated what 5000W of DC power can do...
HA! Your Cruiser wall has so much steel that it could be used as a roll cage!
I wish I had the room for some steel, but it wouldn't incorporate well with some of the features I'm trying to add.
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I like to pour some resin on my corners, let it self level/cure to a 45 deg. angle, then do a a couple layers of glass on top of that. Makes the corners strong as fawk
Yep that's a good idea.
I built my box in my trunk though so there's no way I could tilt the box enough to pool resin in a corner.
I may be trying to fiberglass that weak spot in my box. That should help.
My mirrored plate is slightly in the way though.
We'll see what I can come up with.
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Glue only or did you nail/staple or screw it as well?
Only glue. I had pocket holes drilled, but wasn't getting the screws to bite and grab like I needed them to so I scrapped that idea and just glued.
Looks like I'll probly be trying to retrofit some screws back into the baffle now.
Plus some other things to strengthen it.
In the future, if I ever have another angled baffle, I'll be designing it with more stability then just a glue joint.
I figured a glued double baffle would be sufficient, but I clearly underestimated what 5000W of DC power can do...
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What kind of glue did you use?
Good question!
I was meaning on including that, but forgot to add it although it should be buried in a previous page of the build.
Titebond3 and it should have been a liberal amount, but maybe not...
Should be fun trying to re-glue it and get it properly sealed again.
May have to beef it up some more to make sure it doesn't happen again.
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So recently I got my DC5K running my two DC XL12's and they were sounding great.
A week ago I noticed a harsh rattling noise that I figured was my fiberglass trim piece around the subs or maybe the rear deck.....
Boy was I wrong once I started looking closer.
Well check out the bottom edge of my sub baffle (pardon the dirt, I'm still working on the front of the box):
Yep...the whole bottom edge is cracked apart from the bottom plate of the box.
This is a double baffle of 3/4" MDF which is also cut on an angle so there's >1.5" of contact area which broke loose....
Here's a video which shows the issue better:
I was hoping it wasn't something serious like a damaged sub or something, but I was quite surprised that it turned out to be this.
My first reaction was to be pissed, but I have to say I'm not mad at all, in fact I'm quite impressed.
It's not like I have a wall either with long sides that could flex. This should have been pretty solid.
Hmmm, maybe I didn't use enough glue, who knows...?
Anyway just wanted to share.
Rusty, thank you, I think
for definitely making some bad ass equipment. -
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off topic video uploaded one of my days up at hatchers pass on accident instead of my system haha.
NICE Vid!!!
That snow looks DEEEEP...
That really makes me wanna get a sled. I live right next to the Rockies so its stupid that I don't go up there more...
Lovin' those 12's.
Especially inverted which is the only way to go with Level 6's.
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As long as the voltmeter displays your minimum allowable voltage and then has some room below that then you're fine.
The VM-1 is fast enough that you shouldn't need higher resolution as long as you can see the minimum that your voltage is dropping.
You'd also want the HV to see what you're charging at with a little room above that.
With the normal VM-1 you can't see of your overcharging which is important too.
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Do you need that finer resolution if your voltage is more stable with those monster caps?
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Hell yeah!
Great to see the Caddy again.
More pics!!!
Any chance at putting one of those T15K's on an AD-1 pull?
Would love to see what they are actually capable of!
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Everything unpowered and disconnected.
Resistance between the RCA outside conductor and the amps ground terminal.
General procedure:
<1ohm = single ended
~1000-ish ohms = balanced
No connection = your HU probly blew its pico fuse
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Use a DMM and measure the resistance from the RCA outside conductors to the device's chassis or ground terminal.
If you see basically a direct short, it's single ended (unbalanced).
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How's this for old school:
Texas Instruments Ti-99
http://oldcomputers.net/ti994a.html
Don't remember the exact year but we're talkin' mid to late 80's.
Traded a neighbor a Tonka dump truck for it (the real all-metal versions)
Used to spend HOURS programming BASIC just make some colored squares flash on the screen.
Would usually stay up all night messing with it cuz if I turned it off all the code would disappear..
I must not have had a ROM cartridge or something.
The computer just plugged into the family's living room TV through an RF modulator.
As in an OLD ~25" tube console TV.....No flatscreens back then.
Then I think I had an Apple IIe and then my folks finally got a Gateway2000 PC in 1992.
I think it had a 25MHz processor and something like a 40MB HDD.
Those old school games always bring back the best memories...
Of course Oregon Trail.
Eamon (and a few other text based adventure games)
Deja vu
Moraff's World
Leasure-suit Larry
Many many others.
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I checked the stats on on DD's website but they don't have much other than what you stated (24dB/octave).
More than likely its Linkwitz-Riley, but for your question about before the cutoff frequency, it probably doesn't matter.
Here's a plot of a 24dB/oct slope (LR filters are -6dB at fc):
The fc is 80Hz. At an octave before (40Hz) you can see the slope just starts to drop.
I've seen the same effect on other filters (Butterworth).
At a full octave before the cutoff frequency, I wouldn't worry about any attenuation.
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D series = very fast current release.
XP series = extended current draw.
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How do you know it's clipping?
More detail on your complaint of "clipping"?
Enclosures can't cause clipping.
You can't harmfully underpower a speaker either.
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Alright so I have a Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD for a head unit and some audioque amps. I'm pretty sure I should run single ended(coaxial) rca's. I have some twisted kicker rca's now. Does running the wrong rca have any effect on distortion?
Most aftermarket equipment is single-ended, check your manuals. Balanced outputs/inputs are a unique feature, if your equipment supports it then it will tell you.
If you don't have any noise to deal with then twisted pair will work fine in a single-ended system. You just won't get the full noise reducing capability of the cable.
Your question about RCA type and distortion is a loaded question.
Its more then just type. A poor quality cable can also greatly affect your signal as well.
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