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  1. I have a similar situation. Setting the gains with the CD means that when I use my 4g iPod nano through the full speed iPod cable connected to my Alpine 9887r the bass is noticeably quieter. If you reset the gains using the DD1 tones on the iPod the gains will go up before showing distortion, for this I downloaded the tones off the D'Amore and put them on my iPod.

    Link to the test tones as found on the D'Amore site

    https://files.secureserver.net/1sQHliMu6YbY7V

    Of course you will only be setting the gains for use with the iPod, there is no guarantee that what you play through the CD player will be "clean" of any distortion.

  2. Id strongly suggust stepping up to the Ctek 7002 charger, which is good for 14ah to 150ah when charging, and 14ah to 225ah when maintaining a charge. They sell for a little under $100 depending on where you buy it.

    So if I have a D2400 and XP3000...

    XP3000 is rated at 120Ah

    and D2400 is rated at 70 aH

    120+70= 190aH

    Would the Ctek 7002 charger not be able to fully charge both batteries at the same time because I am over 150aH? What is the difference between maintaining a charge and charging?

    Of course it will. From my experience with the ctek range for situations like yours the charger can charge both batteries connected together, but the charging process won't be as quick. I'd give each battery their own charge prior to installation for good measure though.

  3. Why not an N3?

    Little OT considering the topic was created to get some advice on how to best set up the amps, but I'll entertain your question.

    My current situation is that I have a fully working Fi BTL 15, the one that was released before the N-series. I have a buyer for it and the box at a very reasonable price. At the same time I can get a dead BTL of the same age that needs reconing. Now I could get this BTL, spend around £150 reconing it with an 18" basket, or I could take a bigger jump up to the SMD. Then I found out the SP4 was released. I'm wanting a boot only set up that can play brutally low, but keep that upper edge. If I was to go towards the BTL N3 it would make financial sense to stick with the current BTL I have. The SMD/SP4 also seems to tick all my boxes, along with the 4" coil for extra thermal capacity, and they also seem to favour a slightly smaller box than the BTL - which you have to consider as its going to be a boot only set up in an estate car.

    Now I really didn't want to explain the reasoning between why I have shortlisted the subs I have, but hopefully that answers any questions, and now I can get some relevant help 8)

  4. There is no such thing as a local FI dealer. And maybe SMD/SP4? I think you should make sure you even have what want first, no need to put the carriage before the horse.

    And since you don't have the sub yet, you could easily get the optimum voicecoil configuration. Although I would rather do two BTLs on two T2000s strapped.

    My mistake, by dealer I meant the UK distributor, I understand how the Fi supply chain works, considering I was one of the earliest adopters of the BTL in the UK.

    Like I said, I'm waiting back on a reply which should help me make my decision. To date I've run a single BTL15 in many different installs with 1500wrms-3000wrms, and ventured on to 2 15s on 5kwrms, all from the boot. It's become apparent that the best approach to my streetbassing needs is to stick with a single sub, and thus after seeing similar installs, an 18" with 4k seems to be the way to go.

    Previously the decision was between the BTL or SMD, but the SP4 seems to have switched it all up. Nonetheless, thanks for the concern, but the sub choice is all under control - I just wanted some opinions on the best way to run these 2 amps before I buy my second T2000.

  5. Basically I currently have 1 RF T20001BD running @ 1ohm. There's a possibility of getting a second T20001BD, so I could run one per coil. What would be the best way to get this wired up?

    My initial thinking was to run the amps separately, splitting the RCAs and remote wire, then setting the gain so they're both putting out the same distortion free power, wiring each at 1 ohm. This should ensure 2k+ per coil. Or would it be better to go down the strapping route? I've read in a few places this can be troublesome, but thats the point of this topic, to get some advice from you lot.

    Any help appreciated folks!

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