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Very interesting, would love to see how much truth there is to that, considering the amp I currently run is basically a DD Z1a, could well save me some pennies lol.

I have a similar situation. Setting the gains with the CD means that when I use my 4g iPod nano through the full speed iPod cable connected to my Alpine 9887r the bass is noticeably quieter. If you reset the gains using the DD1 tones on the iPod the gains will go up before showing distortion, for this I downloaded the tones off the D'Amore and put them on my iPod. Link to the test tones as found on the D'Amore site https://files.secureserver.net/1sQHliMu6YbY7V Of course you will only be setting the gains for use with the iPod, there is no guarantee that what you play through the CD player will be "clean" of any distortion.

That said, I have always found it made no difference when tuning my set ups, talking 1.5k-6k monoblocks.

Well Rusty I guess you should be having words with one of your own distributors who dismissed the DD1 by saying: "It's an overpriced fake scope with limited use designed to make mr Meade more money......"

Had these a while now but only just got chance to get pics, big thanks to Nathan for helping these get shipped to us!

How much for international shipping? Wouldn't mind picking up the other Psyph and Doja albums you have on Amazon too!

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php/topic/361097-6-15-xl-m2s-5k/

I had the same problem in my 2004 audi s4. Had no room with the v8. Just send your alternator out and have it built up to spec. The only real way to get a second alt on the V8 is to give up your air con pump

I'd be interested to see some clamp figures from this, beasty amp!

For a daily drive - stealthy. For something not used as much that is generally locked away somewhere secure - flashy fo sho!

Based on 6500 @ 1 ohm 3300 @ 2 ohm 1800 @ 4 ohm You'd be looking at around 5.3kwrms (thats if my maths is still up to scratch lol)

So if I have a D2400 and XP3000... XP3000 is rated at 120Ah and D2400 is rated at 70 aH 120+70= 190aH Would the Ctek 7002 charger not be able to fully charge both batteries at the same time because I am over 150aH? What is the difference between maintaining a charge and charging? Of course it will. From my experience with the ctek range for situations like yours the charger can charge both batteries connected together, but the charging process won't be as quick. I'd give each battery their own charge prior to installation for good measure though.

It's so you're testing how "musical" your install is, aimed more at the streetbassers rather than the one note wonders.

I found no distortion on an Alpine 9887R

Turns out this may be solved anyway, I've been advised to use an external strapping module to save any hassle that using the internal circuit may cause.

Little OT considering the topic was created to get some advice on how to best set up the amps, but I'll entertain your question. My current situation is that I have a fully working Fi BTL 15, the one that was released before the N-series. I have a buyer for it and the box at a very reasonable price. At the same time I can get a dead BTL of the same age that needs reconing. Now I could get this BTL, spend around £150 reconing it with an 18" basket, or I could take a bigger jump up to the SMD. Then I found out the SP4 was released. I'm wanting a boot only set up that can play brutally low, but keep that upper edge. If I was to go towards the BTL N3 it would make financial sense to stick with the current BTL I have. The SMD/SP4 also seems to tick all my boxes, along with the 4" coil for extra thermal capacity, and they also seem to favour a slightly smaller box than the BTL - which you have to consider as its going to be a boot only set up in an estate car. Now I really didn't want to explain the reasoning between why I have shortlisted the subs I have, but hopefully that answers any questions, and now I can get some relevant help

My mistake, by dealer I meant the UK distributor, I understand how the Fi supply chain works, considering I was one of the earliest adopters of the BTL in the UK. Like I said, I'm waiting back on a reply which should help me make my decision. To date I've run a single BTL15 in many different installs with 1500wrms-3000wrms, and ventured on to 2 15s on 5kwrms, all from the boot. It's become apparent that the best approach to my streetbassing needs is to stick with a single sub, and thus after seeing similar installs, an 18" with 4k seems to be the way to go. Previously the decision was between the BTL or SMD, but the SP4 seems to have switched it all up. Nonetheless, thanks for the concern, but the sub choice is all under control - I just wanted some opinions on the best way to run these 2 amps before I buy my second T2000.

Currently a 15" BTL, but hopping up to an 18" BTL or maybe the SMD/SP4, which will be finalised in the next few days, just waiting back on a reply from my local Fi dealer.

It is indeed strappable. I can either use a bridging module like the Ground Zero GZBM1000, or the bdsync2 cable. However I keep reading about issues when strapping, mainly phase related - so wondered which option would be the best, strapping or just gain matching each amp wired up to a coil each.

Basically I currently have 1 RF T20001BD running @ 1ohm. There's a possibility of getting a second T20001BD, so I could run one per coil. What would be the best way to get this wired up? My initial thinking was to run the amps separately, splitting the RCAs and remote wire, then setting the gain so they're both putting out the same distortion free power, wiring each at 1 ohm. This should ensure 2k+ per coil. Or would it be better to go down the strapping route? I've read in a few places this can be troublesome, but thats the point of this topic, to get some advice from you lot. Any help appreciated folks!