HarrisonGrayLetchworth
-
Posts
51 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by HarrisonGrayLetchworth
-
-
Should I send it in now or wait till it fries?
To be honest, I'd love to do it myself and I'm pretty sure I could do it myself but the clips holding the mosfets to the heatsink are the only thing stopping me. But then what Kranny said has me thinking too, I'd hate to do it myself and some other part fails.
-
DB-r said it didnt look to bad and would cost 100$ for just cap replacement. He suggested to wait till they go bad since it would only cost around 140 to rebuild the amp.
-
See: Capacitor whine. Give them the amp and tell them you need the main capacitor bank "the big ones" replaced with ones of the exact same specification. Advise them to cautiously remove the MOSFETs from the heatsink individually and carefully when disassembling the amp.
EDIT: Anywhere you seek repair get an estimate, show them the amp, tell them what you want done.
TV repair store said they didnt have any in stock (Duh) and they wern't 100% sure how to take the board off the heat sink.. They said all 4 needed to be replaced. I told them to call me if they found some cap's that would work. Needless to say they wouldnt give me a quote so I took my amp home.
some amps emit a high pitched buzz at the point where they start to clip.
that amp doesnt look to be in the best shape, plus those torrid wires are real sloppy. i've never seen an amp have such snaky wiring like that.
Thats the whole reason I posted pictures. Seems like it could have been repaired at some time. Right on with the buzz, tuning with a DMM it is right at the voltage number you tune at.
So, where online is worth contacting?
-
Any suggestions or anyone to stay away from? We have a TV repair shop that has been around forever in town that I was going to see what they said.
-
I think the market would be for broken amps. Not looking to fancy up a good one. I mean if you can get fried amps for cheap, fix them up and then add a special touch you could have a good selling point.
-
A couple of caps look like their bulging on top. If they is, that is most likely the source of your high pitched sound. Get it fixed now before it breaks and save a lot of money.
Look around locally for TV/electronics repair shops and see if they can replace them for you.
Thought they were bulging some. The buzzing seems to be coming from the top left of the amp. But not sure, hope i can get it fixed.
-
Well, I bought this amp from a guy off the forum. It has been a great amp, besides it will go into protect on fast pace bass music, like rock, from lack of battery power and my car HOGs up insane voltage. It can drop my D3100 to 13v with my radio off. And It runs a little warm.
When it is hooked upto a DMM( like you are tuning it) while turning up the gain with a 40 hz test tone the amp will start buzzing inside once the output voltage hits 49ish. No clue what it is, i'd make a video but the camera would pick up my exhaust over the buzzing.
More importantly I opened my amp today to see if it was dusty inside or anything and found some crazy looking wiring inside that looks like its been repaired, comments ? Or is this just how Exile builds their amps.
Also the third cap over had a little bit of corrosion on the top of it, or thats what it seemed like. Does it look like the 3rd and 4th are poking out on top?
Here is a full board picture.
-
you're going to be spending the same amount in batteries if you want to even think about running 2-3k on a stock alt. so why the hell not get an alt?
you still havent contacted dc power or singer.
Great point. I'll give them each a call tommrow.
Got a new DMM without the big 3 my voltage hit 11.5 but bounced back fast. With just the ground to frame hooked up It stayed in the 11's.
I got fustrated with bad lighting and came in before I finished reconnecting everything so it's not as bad as I thought it was.
-
I guess what I'm looking for is someone who has been down this road. Someone pushing around 2-3k on a relitivly small alternator.
Ill be honest, a new alt is the last thing I want to do. I goto basic training in september anything over 500-700$ just isnt going to be worth it.
-
for a start fit the biggest thing you can under the hood
min. xs d1200 (and if not fit, try a d925 or d975)
with an upgraded ele, but if you have no success,
do an off line ele system (separate from car)
get a gm 180+amp(220 prefered) alt and fab some brackets and fit that with a xs d3100 or 2 in the rear
I checked and a d3100 will squeeze under the hood. And I would love to run a sperate system but there is no chance under my hood.
with a DMM check the voltage under the hood. It's funny, the amp will kill itself in order to protect itself lol. Definitely check the voltage to make sure you have enough to sustain an amplifier
I gotta get a new DMM my last one suffered a painful death installing the box. But full tilt, were the gain is sposed to be, I dont have enough voltage. And when it gets low enough it will goto protect mode. The gain is set right now were it doesn't get close.
-
call mechman or dc power. the online site is pretty much useless.
I contacted mechamn by email, he said there was nothing at this time. Should I call anyways?
How is your ground? a poor ground might be a cause
Edit: I haven't had this problem so anyone correct me if I'm wrong
Grounds up front and back are good, I think my biggest issue is not having enough battery power. I just dont know how much I need and where to look.
-
Anything? I know it cant stay like it is.
-
Okay, I have a 2011 mazda 3, Fi SSD's, and an Exile 2400.1. 1/0 wire ran to the trunk along with the big 3. Stock electrical, I dont need to be told how bad this is, i can clearly tell. The gain is turned way down around were my aq1200 was pushing out.
So you guys tell me what I need to do. My car has a 100 amp alternator, from what I've seen from searching there isn't an ungrade. So what do I need to do to get it were I can tune my amp where it should be and not have crazy voltage drops. OR is there no hope for that much amp on so small alternator.
So much bass my poor car cant handle it, i hope i can keep it.
-
PM'd anything else?
-
Looking for an amp around 2-3k rms. Not too picky with brand, must be in full working order. Cosmetics can be bad, but the price will refect it.
Price range of under 350, if I spend more then that I'll get a new aq2200.
Thank you and I look foward to your offers.
-
Forgot about flashdrives! I guess I'm stuck to CD's with this stock headunit.
-
So most of y'all use CD's for bass music and all?
-
I was playing some music in the car the other day, and could tell some serious distortion on my ipod touch 3rd gen at full blast.
anyone ever check devices for were they clip? My Blackberry did it at full blast also.
-
Choosing subwoofers is worse then girlfriends, so I made a list(just like for girls) with prices and notes. Its not 100% yet, doubt it ever will. For some reason I'm leaning towards getting two new Fi SDDs with all the upgrades. On my one Aq1200D. Just for the reason I can add an amp when I get the cash or birthday.
Questions;
- Is 1200rms going to be enough power?
- Would I benefit from a line driver? ( no idea on voltage come off of Bose H/U )
- 1 gauge wire enough?
-Normal box( sub facing trunk ) or box with subs and port sealed to the cabin area?
For the wire, would you go ahead and run 0 gauge to be connected to another battery? I know that would be necessary if I put another amp in.
Feel free to talk me out of all of this, add any comments, or just put your 2cents in. It would all be appreciated alot.
-
I think as long as your responsible with the knob this setup would be great. You've shown your more responsible then most just by not running the SSD at .5ohm. lol
Get a second AQ1200 Audio Que 1,200
And get a Fi BTL N2 15" D1 and strap the amps at 2ohm. Fi BTL N2
Do you think stock electrical would be able to handle that? and one 15 move enough air?
ha, I thought about going .5 ohms once or twice. But just wasnt worth it to me.
I'd recommend the Big 3 upgrade with 1/0 and 1/0 to the rear. See how bad voltage drops, if it's low 12's get a secondary battery.
And Yes, a BTL 15" on 2,400+ would be a very large step up.
Big 3 is definitely going to happen.
hah, just a btl is a huge setup. I know it'd probably sound insane, I just dont think my trunk is ready for a btl yet.
Another question, I've read its better to face the subs towards the trunk. but is facing them towards the cabin and sealing that much louder?
-
I think as long as your responsible with the knob this setup would be great. You've shown your more responsible then most just by not running the SSD at .5ohm. lol
Get a second AQ1200 Audio Que 1,200
And get a Fi BTL N2 15" D1 and strap the amps at 2ohm. Fi BTL N2
Do you think stock electrical would be able to handle that? and one 15 move enough air?
ha, I thought about going .5 ohms once or twice. But just wasnt worth it to me.
-
-
I see no way paypal could ever justify that. Something has to be sketched up. Have you actually talked with someone or just email?
-
if u wanna keep a aq1200d might as well get 2 sdc 12s or 10s and build a sick ass box for them.. no subsitute for cone area
So do you think two SDC 2.5 12's will do what I want? As far as box goes; I wouldnt be able to design a crazy good box. Is that something that someone up here does?
What about Skar subs, I saw those on youtube. Anything to them?
Exile 2400.1 Guts; also strange buzzing issue
in Amp Guts
Posted
Oh well, once I get everything put back together my amp blows some mosfets. FML, time for a new amp or to take all of this mess out of my trunk.