HarrisonGrayLetchworth

Oh well, once I get everything put back together my amp blows some mosfets. FML, time for a new amp or to take all of this mess out of my trunk.

Should I send it in now or wait till it fries? To be honest, I'd love to do it myself and I'm pretty sure I could do it myself but the clips holding the mosfets to the heatsink are the only thing stopping me. But then what Kranny said has me thinking too, I'd hate to do it myself and some other part fails.

DB-r said it didnt look to bad and would cost 100$ for just cap replacement. He suggested to wait till they go bad since it would only cost around 140 to rebuild the amp.

TV repair store said they didnt have any in stock (Duh) and they wern't 100% sure how to take the board off the heat sink.. They said all 4 needed to be replaced. I told them to call me if they found some cap's that would work. Needless to say they wouldnt give me a quote so I took my amp home. Thats the whole reason I posted pictures. Seems like it could have been repaired at some time. Right on with the buzz, tuning with a DMM it is right at the voltage number you tune at. So, where online is worth contacting?

Any suggestions or anyone to stay away from? We have a TV repair shop that has been around forever in town that I was going to see what they said.

I think the market would be for broken amps. Not looking to fancy up a good one. I mean if you can get fried amps for cheap, fix them up and then add a special touch you could have a good selling point.

Thought they were bulging some. The buzzing seems to be coming from the top left of the amp. But not sure, hope i can get it fixed.

Well, I bought this amp from a guy off the forum. It has been a great amp, besides it will go into protect on fast pace bass music, like rock, from lack of battery power and my car HOGs up insane voltage. It can drop my D3100 to 13v with my radio off. And It runs a little warm. When it is hooked upto a DMM( like you are tuning it) while turning up the gain with a 40 hz test tone the amp will start buzzing inside once the output voltage hits 49ish. No clue what it is, i'd make a video but the camera would pick up my exhaust over the buzzing. More importantly I opened my amp today to see if it was dusty inside or anything and found some crazy looking wiring inside that looks like its been repaired, comments ? Or is this just how Exile builds their amps. Also the third cap over had a little bit of corrosion on the top of it, or thats what it seemed like. Does it look like the 3rd and 4th are poking out on top? Here is a full board picture.

Great point. I'll give them each a call tommrow. Got a new DMM without the big 3 my voltage hit 11.5 but bounced back fast. With just the ground to frame hooked up It stayed in the 11's. I got fustrated with bad lighting and came in before I finished reconnecting everything so it's not as bad as I thought it was.

I guess what I'm looking for is someone who has been down this road. Someone pushing around 2-3k on a relitivly small alternator. Ill be honest, a new alt is the last thing I want to do. I goto basic training in september anything over 500-700$ just isnt going to be worth it.

I checked and a d3100 will squeeze under the hood. And I would love to run a sperate system but there is no chance under my hood. I gotta get a new DMM my last one suffered a painful death installing the box. But full tilt, were the gain is sposed to be, I dont have enough voltage. And when it gets low enough it will goto protect mode. The gain is set right now were it doesn't get close.

I contacted mechamn by email, he said there was nothing at this time. Should I call anyways? Grounds up front and back are good, I think my biggest issue is not having enough battery power. I just dont know how much I need and where to look.