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Omega5002

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Posts posted by Omega5002

  1. Before saying anything, please don't laugh, and don't suggest that I just go buy mdf, it's what I have to work with.

    Ok, I bought plywood since my mdf got ruined from liquid damage, so I originally wanted to buy birch, but the guy at lowes said that plywood was the same thing, so I got it, noticed it has holes, so I filled it with wood filler, but now I'm worried about the box sounding bad cause I read plywood is kinda bad, but any advice on what I can do to make it better?

    So far, I'm planning on sanding each piece to make it smooth.

  2. I listen to everything, even a couple country songs here and there.

    Buy Sade's Greatest Hits, I got it about a month ago and I never took it out my car, its there for those times when I just want to relax and listen to something that is SQ (even though I don't have an SQ system lol)

    :DDDDDDDD

    I love Sade, her voice is velvet, though "By you side" has a good bassline

    For relaxing, I either play

    Gorillaz

    Sting

    Sade

    Seal

    Mac Miller

    Liquid Drum & Bass

    Ambient Dubstep (also known as Chillstep)

    Trip-Hop

    and a few more stuff too

  3. You miiight be able to milk 220. That may be a little high, depending on the internal condition. If it tunes great and plays smooth you should have no problem getting at least like 200 out of it. My kicker blew out last year, but that's because I mindlessly cranked that bass all the way.. boom goes a couple hundred $.

    220? A new one sells for around $140, so maybe at most $100 outta it, depending on condition.

    my bad, didn't see the wattage

    Yeah, the only Kicker amp I can think of that would sell for $200 is the ZX 750.1

  4. You miiight be able to milk 220. That may be a little high, depending on the internal condition. If it tunes great and plays smooth you should have no problem getting at least like 200 out of it. My kicker blew out last year, but that's because I mindlessly cranked that bass all the way.. boom goes a couple hundred $.

    220? A new one sells for around $140, so maybe at most $100 outta it, depending on condition.

  5. By the way its for my home, I'm powering it with a powersupply

    If you're gonna use it for home, I wouldn't recommend using a car amp on a power supply cause that usually doesn't work out well(distortion, not enough power cause a 400 watt psu won't do 400 watts on 12 volts, etc). You should save up for a professional amp people use for PA systems, or a plate amp to power that sub.

  6. Even if I had the money, I wouldn't buy JL products, especially since my friends taunts me sometimes with his all JL Audio system installed by "Pros", and even said my Kicker sounded like shit. He spent at least $3k for everything, which is just 2 HD amps, C3 components, and 2 W3 12's which he directly ordered from JL themselves, and had them "professionally" installed, and for me, $250 roughly for the sub,box, amp, and wiring kits, and installing it myself, so very unfair comparison.

    Now he's bragging that he's getting 2 W7 12's, and ZR components, putting an HD 750/1 for each W7 12', and putting them in a SEALED box lol, cause he says it has better sound quality. He was offering me his 2 sets of C3's for $400, and I literally told him "hell no", only 75 watts each, and sound like cheap speakers when pushed with too much power(he was feeding 125 watts), I can do way better for that, and I bet you guys know that too.

    SQ wise, JL products to me don't sound all that great to me, the W3's don't hit all that clean, the C3's mids have too big of a soundstage, and the tweeters are too bright in my opinion, though I am gonna hear the ZR's and W7's, and see how they sound when I turn on my "extremely picky, audiophile ears I developed from being in home audio before car audio" , and see what's all the hype for.

    Now don't get me wrong, it sounds good, but the cost isn't worth it.

    If I had that kind of money, I would go for Rockford Fosgate amps all the way

  7. If you were to run the tweeter and midrange in parallel on each channel, you would be at 2.4 ohms, which would be fine since that 4 channel is 2 ohm stable, and does 100 watts at 2 ohms on each channel.

    Edit: 6 ohms? You using a home audio tweeter or something?, just wondering

  8. You should probably give those Pioneers more power though to avoid clipping but only when you can afford it. Which Kenwood amp?

    Just curious, but how would not giving them enough power would clip his subs?

    _____

    Also to OP, box does make one hell of a difference even if your subs aren't the best. I've got the weakest model that Kicker offers but when I switched from a prefab crappy wood sealed box to a ported 3/4" thick MDF box I noticed a major difference.

    Well, in case he has the gain and/or bass boost a little too high, forcing the subs to play louder off a little power, which is the usual cause of subs breaking, by underpowering them. Now if he's sending a clean 150 watt signal, it shouldn't be a problem, the subs just won't be as loud, but hopefully the Kenwood amp does him better when it comes to power.

  9. Yeah, it's gonna/should be be as loud as your Polks for the MP6 since the Polks has a 93db sensitivty, and the MP6 also has a 93 db sensitivity. Could be even louder since companies sometimes measure their db sensitivity different from one another.

  10. Yeah, the box is extremely important when it comes to spl, and/or sq. Your box should be made of 3/4 mdf (medium density fiber board), not plywood to avoid box flex, and to be sturdy overall.

    Hmmm, take a closer look at the Kenwood amp, to see the model name, or at least the rms wattage which is what matters, because that Kenwood is most likely not gonna do 1200 watt rms, and most kenwood amps are only 2 ohm stable, except for one that is 1 ohm stable but with like >900 watts rms as the number.

    Ported will be louder for you if you're looking to shake things around.

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