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POPLERO

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Posts posted by POPLERO

  3. my first real sound deadening purchase, advice?

    in Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!

    Posted

    I do plan on doing most everything but will tackle it one section at a time... since I am re-doing my doors first, they are my priority. So damp pro and llp? Why not alpha damp? Which is better? Since llp would be used, dose that eleminate the purpose of a tweaker foam pad?

    Sorry for all the questions, I would just like to build my own knowledge on the ss products since I would rather use the best possible and get it done once, and done right.

  4. my first real sound deadening purchase, advice?

    in Second Skin Sound Deadening and Automotive Insulation!

    Posted

    Hello all smd'ers. I would like to have a nice build going this year and use better products and no short cuts. In the past i have used mainly only peel and seal, due to its price, and tripple layer my roof and some floorboard.. a good while later i decided to wrap my headliner in suede and when i removed it the peel and seal was just falling apart, we tend to see 110* temperature peak here. I would like to make a smarter purchase than just what is cheap and availible in my budget. I have offically blown 2 door speakers and plan on redoing the doors first, and would like to only do in once and have it done with. So i am sceptical about t holding up on the doors now, but would like to seek advice for what is the best method and product combo to use.. here s some of my knowledge so far..

    *if you want it done right, ss is the lambo of deadener.

    *alpha damp is best for straighter applications since its so thick.

    *you dont need full coverage on panels but the more the better i assume.

    I would like to do a sound deadner, noise barrier, and maybe try a tweaker pad in each door.. just not sure if that is a right combination. Help appreciataed, thank you. ohh and the vehicle is a 2008 trailblazer ss.

  16. Battery Install Question: Can I cut off the factory Wire Ends?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Merged all wires to an aftermarket side terminal. And after removing the end plastic caps I found enough slack and didn't need to replace the wire from the fuse block to (+) terminal.

    Yes, the clap just needs to go around the neg wires to see how much amps your drawing and will adjust voltage on the alt. I was able to snake through my 0 awg neg run throught the clamp but and the disconnect it and work them through..

    I have a really hard trouble uploading photos but can text you some... If needed, I know it was a pain to get it figured when I did it but feel pretty confident its a solid job.

  17. Battery Install Question: Can I cut off the factory Wire Ends?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by POPLERO

    Hey, saw you post this on tbssowners today. I did this on my tbss, the wire was way too short from tha fuse box to (+) side terminal on batt and my red plastic cover was somewhat cut to help get a little more slack, which is how I got it when purchased the truck. So I took off both the plastic end covers and merged all wires accordingly to a side terminal. But very important to keep the negative amp draw clamp, like stated, to have the alternator function properly..

    Also, if doing the big 3 you need to rout the new negative through that negative amp draw clamp, apperantly if you don't your alt will not be charging sufficently..

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