DefQon

the box is sub front port front. Rectangle port to. ive tried facing the sub box towards the front back and facing up all sounds the same. would a video of how the bass craps out be any use? the sub box is made pretty roughly but its still very close to the dimensions from the book. I narrowed the port aswell to make it 38hz

the lowest the amp can go is 50hz on the lpf. its set at 80 now is that alright or not? head unit can go 60 80 or 100. i dont think the hpf is applying to the sub either. what other possibilities could be wrong? I have just noticed that the recomended box design in the book is about 2.35 ft3 but im readin the subs specifications and it says VAS 3.217 ft3. does that mean the box i made is way to small? also is a really big box better than a big box? if i was to make a new box should i make it as big as my car trunk/boot can fit? where should the sub be placed? right now its directly in the middle of the face of the box.

They box is built to the dimensions that was in the subs manual book i think its tuned to around 38hz. and i built a 32hz box just to try get the low bass to work but no luck with that. would it have anything to do with the gains or anything? or head unit tuning? Head units lpf is tuned to 80 and hpf 125.

its just a earthquake TNT 2000w mono amp. LPF on the amp says 50hz at lowest and 300hz at highest. then next to that there is level and min on one side max on the other. i have it at half way. then the bass boost 0dbmin 10db max i have it at halfway also. there is also a phase switch with 0 on one side and 180 on the other. i have it switched on 0. and a subsonic switch i have it turned off. any help is appreciated its really annoying having bass hit hard then all of a sudden a realy deep note comes and all i can hear is my crappy speakers trying to make bass but no sub pounding.

Im having trouble finding out why my sub isnt hitting some very low notes. I have an earthquake dbxi-15D put into a box made by me. I have made 2 boxes and both cant make it hit the very low notes. My speakers hit the notes but the sub doesnt sound like its trying very hard. I noticed my amp lpf goes from 50hz to 300 or soemthing. does this mean any bass below 50hz is getting cut off? how can i make the low bass work good?

Thanks for them designs. I have just bought a 15" earthquake sub and build the factory slot ported enclosure for it. Ill let my friend who now owns the cvr's about these designs if he wants to try them out.

Sorry for changing the subs topic but does anyone reckon 2 clarion 15" subs would be better than the cvr's? I can get 2 15" clarions for about $400 then just need a box and around 1400 watts to power them. Clarion subs are real cheap over here. Pioneers are cheap to.

Ill try it out. To make a dual slot ported box should i just design 2 single boxes and put them next to each other in the boot? I cant find any premade cvr box designs anywhere. I read somewehre that 36 was a good tuning level for cvr's. A box around the size of the "living loud box would be alright. It can be wider or deeper just not higher or it wont fit in the boot of my car.

Id be interested in making my own box. What materials would i need? Around how much would it cost to build one? If i learn to build my own box's ill be saving around $250 off these prices .

I was told the audiobahn amp wont power the sub by one of the people at the shop. I went on a trip today to 5 different car audio shops and got 2 quotes. first one was this 2 earthquake db12's 1000w mono amp T1000W/2 and a custom built slot proted box $940 2 rockford fosgate p2 12" P300-1 amp cant remember if custom box was included to. $900 I dont know why everywheres saying ill need a new amp though. I thought my amp was just as good as these ones thre recomending. Most places have said 1 single 12" sub wont be able to make more bass than 2 12". Im confused whether its worth the upgrade or not. Everywhere i went said the cvr's are pretty good subs and unless i spend real big i wont get much better than them.

Yeah im gona go look around a bit more today. I live in australia so your $830 setup would cost me about $1200. Online carstereo seems alright not sure how much it will come to if i get it shipped. Can get dual Orion hp12's for $540 that would beat my kickers for sure. except itll probably cost a bit more for shipping. Ill just keep looking round for now.

I just went back today to buy it and a different guy was serving and said $970 for the sub and amp when another said $820. so i gotta go back tomorrow to get the better price. I listened to the sub again though and it didnt sound as good as it first did. What other dual subs do you think could beat my cvr's for around the price im spending?

I think ill just buy the orion sub and amp. Only thing im worried about is that my 2 cvr's might be moving more air because theres two of them and the upgrade will be a waste. The orion looks like it flex's alot more than the cvr's though. im gona be buying a 1800w mono kenwood amp and the orion hp 12" in the slot ported box. The box is pretty big almost the size of the 2 kicker cvr's box. I just wanted some last opinons if you think the single orion will beat the 2 cvr's.

This is what i have at the moment 2 kicker cvr's in kickers ported box. 1 2 channel audiobahn A2150HCT to power the subs and 4 guage wiring My car is a VS Commodore acclaim S2. I live in australia so prices are alot more expencive here. My budget is around $800 to get a new sub and an amp if needed. The shops in my area can supply Kicker, Pioneer, Earthquake, Orion, Kenwood, Cadence, Alpine and Clarion. I just want something that will shake alot more than the cvr's.

Hey i have 2 kicker cvr's in the kicker ported box and want soemthing better. The shops in my area dont have much but i have found a slot ported orion hp 12" sub and it sounded pretty good in the display room. I wasnt sure which would be louder. The orion sub is better but i have 2 cvr's so its hard to decide if its worth the upgrade. what do you think i should do?