IKnowImLost224
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Posts posted by IKnowImLost224
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no prob...will sign all - thanks guys!
Damn, wish I woulda gotten mine signed and got the stickers lol. I use the DD-1 quite often cause I change stuff around so much
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Steve, when I bought the DD-1 I never got the stickers. I always like to rep what I use!
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Okay I did not know that about not being able to test current with a multimeter. Is the load tester the free check that like autozone or o reileys has?
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I was under my hood and noticed some stuff coming out of the + terminal that I suspected to be acid. So I tested the voltage and got 12.6 volts. Then I tested the amperage with the car running and got no amps from + to -. Yet when I disconnected the kinetik and tried starting the car it still started. Without amperage wouldn't the car not start?
Reason I ask is because I lost quite a bit of power in the past month or so and I'm wondering if that's why.
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Well I have all the wood cut to the dimensions listed in the pic above. Gonna build the box tomorrow, can't wait!
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I can go wider, but it makes it an extremely close fit. I would rather not build it then it not fit. My trunk is shaped stupid.
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This is what I came up with...
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Okay I'll try to see if I can get something figured out
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WEll I made it wider and kept it in the port area range on Torres until I got the tuning where I wanted. Should I try to do something with both firing back?
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Anybody??? Just wanna know if just facing the port back is gonna make that much difference
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I know... I said that in the original post about the port being small and making it bigger
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Help bump
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I just made this box, it sounds like shit. I didnt know about port area before I made it. I wanna make close to the same thing except this time it will have a 3.75" port tuned to about 36 Hz. If I kept the sub firing up and just faced the port back would that be okay? Otherwise I wouldn't have much room for the sub to face forward.
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My only thing with the Kenwood decks is the short range of volume. Never owned one but I know they only go to like 35 volume or something. Would that make the volume jump quite a bit with each +1?
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Whats the difference between the excelon's and non-excelon kenwood decks?
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Decaf where did ya go??? Lol
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Or if someone else knows what Decaf is saying and can clear it up for me I would appreciate it
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Eclipse still makes a HU but it's junk. They have a double din ive seen, but nothing like their stuff used to be. The Kenwood is a great option, and you might as well pull the trigger on it. Pioneer and their PICO fuse issues have always turned me off. The fact that you have to trick your RCAs as soon as you pull the deck out of its new box, doesn't give me confidence to buy one.
What do you mean by you need to trick your RCA's? Because I was recently having a issue after I switched my Pioneer H/U's. Never had a problem with my old one, but my new one sounds like it took my sub and just shat on it. They are both 4v pre-outs and have almost exact same specs as far as power and stuff but it sounds like my sub disappeared unless loudness is on and the sub option is +6 lol
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That's good info to see. I also have a XXX 15 and have been trying to come up with a custom enclosure
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Lmao, I think I understand it. If I knew what all the abbreviations meant
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Decaf, I kind of understand what your saying but not sure I have a complete grasp of it. Can you give me an example? I'm using the RE XXX 15" powered by a sundown SAZ-2500D at just over half gain
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Also, I am going sub/port towards trunk rear
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Whatever you do go front firing or backfiring ports/subs
From the screenshot I would suggest to make a double baffle with this subwoofer, place a "1" on the "# of extra baffles" box, also your net volume is below 4 cubic feet that RE Audio suggests.
To get the port parts you need to look at the physical port length box on the Torres and do some calculations or measure the length of the port along its centerline which in your case is 2" .
I did end up changing the baffle. I won't have the room to make the RE "Optimum" box. So I am trying to stay between the Optimum and Compact.
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When looking for a new sub...
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
What can you learn from the subs specs? Can you tell if it's more of a sq/spl sub? What can help determine a all around sub compared to one thats strictly spl for example? This may be a dumb question or may not even be possible but there are sub specs that I look at and have no idea what they mean.
These are a few I am curious about and are taken from my RE XXX 15".