[help w/ possible tranny for my tbss.]

my truck has a 4l60e and its been rebuilt. nothing like dropping that much money on a tranny.

Yeah those have bad issues with reaction sunshells breaking or the one way rollers lets go in them. If you can do your own trans work, there is a ton of money to be saved. 4L60 to 4L80 transmissions are pretty simple to go through. A clean work area, a compotent manual, and good lights I believe most people with good mechanical knowledge could go through one and fix them. Personally I think the worst part is installing and sizing teflon seals if their needed.

[help w/ possible tranny for my tbss.]

The tbss was the first vehicle to get the 4l70e trans from gm which indeed has some significant issues.. the clutchs burn and the bands break. An afftermarket preformance trans would be a better bet but pricer. Some people convert to the 4l80/90 trans itself and that holds up a lot better than the stock 4l70..

what gm tranny doesnt have issues lol

LOL yeah all GM trannys have issues. The 4T65 and 4L80 probably have the least problems from my experiance of what comes into the shop. But then again I work in a Caddy shop where most of the trans issues that come in are 4T80s out of the devilles/seville with TCC lock up solenoid issues with burnt up torque converters.

[help w/ possible tranny for my tbss.]

I would personally convert to a 4l80. Way stronger starting platform, lot less likly to burn clutches, burn bands, break wave plates, destroy planetary gears, or twist input shafts. What kinda mods you have done to your TB SS? Also they have factory trans coolers built into the radiator, if you want an external unit you could alway just pull the lines, cut and flare and just run rubber hose up to a universal cooler. Just mount it in front of your condensor with a bracket or some radiator zip ties.

[New Goodies for the Lexus ISF - Figs Control arms / NOS]

Yeah from the factory the IS line alway have issues with the rear camber; and the customers always complain about it especially when you tell them you can't adjsut the rear camber to fix their tire wear. But be careful on the spray. Make sure you run one step richer pill on the fuel side if your not going to have is tuned (which is what I would suggest). Also run 1 step colder spark plug per 50hp shot of nitrous you run. This will help prevent detonation/pre-ignition. Those engines are pretty high compression from the factory (around 11:1 if memory serves me right) so I would suggest not going over 100hp shot of spray with out tuning. Also I would suggest installing a wideband O2 sensor so you can make sure you engine doesn't go lean; your fuel trims are probably already pretty high in the computers fueling corrections if you have a cold air intake and exhaust, but the computer won't be able to comp for any split second lean conditions spray can cause. I would hate to see you burn one of those nice expessive titanium exhaust valves lol or grenade a 10k - 15k engine.