stuntstere

Yeah the situation is the op has a giant hole in his subwoofer. LOL I don't see anything wrong with my subwoofer. That hole is actually there for extra coil cooling. LOL

Also if I recone one with extra spiders I may as well do the other. One question though. Say I switch to a 2ohm coil to get a final load of .5 on my crescendo 3500 would these be able to survive that? Even with the extra spiders and cutting down on port area?

I'm assuming the lower port area would help per say add resistance to the sub to keep it from over excusion?

Yeah I built it myself with just the help of the torres calculator and some mathematical equations to figure in the extra displacement from the braces and what not.

The one with the red X is the one that let go. Is there anything you guys see wrong with the box besides maybe too big or too much port for the power level?

I would assume there was some kinda clipping. With decaf it should of been tuned no lower than a -5dB tone. O well lol. also the subsonic cut was at 27hz. Too low maybe? I never heard the subs bottom out. Only time was when I forgot to set the subsonic and hit a 23hz note in a song and I instantly turned it down. That was about 5 months ago though.

Well the subs where parallel in the box but series on the out side to get a final load of 1ohm. Also I never payed to much attention to see if one was moving more than the other.

Yeah its a home setup. The last thing I painted was my bike. These are pics before I wet sanded and buffed. BTW this is after I screwed up. LOL I ended up having to sand and reclear because I didn't wait long enough to wet sand so I wrinkled the clear. To the OP I would wait about a week. Try wet sanding with 2000. Clean. Cut and buff in the normal sequence and apply wax at the end. If all else fails the only thing you can do is take it down and reclear maybe taking note what you do different from before and after to maybe isolate the possible issue that caused it.

Yeah thats what I was thinking, plus I was playing decaf which is boosted, so I'm sure there was some clipping involved.

Yeah I don't use anything lower grade than dupont clear. I'll use nason paint or etc, but I always use a quality clear. I also spray out of a Binks MG1 with no less than a 60 gallon comp with a 3 stage decicant dryer, filter, regulator with 2 more disposible inline filters on the bottom of my gun. Can never have enough filtration while spraying. lol

The meter reads OL. There is an open in the coil on one side of the sub. The other coil reads fine at 1ohm. So would loosing a coil cause this to happen?

Also if you wait too long between coats on clear it will mess it up. You want to wait until the coat you laid is tacky to apply the next. If it beyond that I wait until its fully cure, wet sand the clear with 600 and basically start again laying clear.

If looking at that picture it would be the one on the left next to port wall.

thats my second guess behind him not allowing enough of a dry time between base and clear. chemicals could rise through the base into the clear during curing True. I didn't even think about that. Too short of a base cure time will mess up how the clear goes on.

Hmmm. If the clear that you laid is dull and the other side is fine after cutting and buffing, I would suspect something to do with the clear itself. What brand clear did you use? Also, could of been off on the ratio while mixing. Should of gotten a slow activator if you where in a hot climate.

Here is a picture of the box that they where in. It's a picture of me test fitting everything before the top went on.

Well I just got done pulling it out of the box. One side is open and the other reads 1.0 ohm.

So, I was cruising down the road today with the tunes cranked; then out of nowhere I hear this horrible noise. I turn the radio down, and when I arrive home and inspected I found this: It is a sad sight. I had two m2 lvl 4 12" subs off a crescendo 3500 at 1ohm. Box is at 3ft3 after displacement for the pair with about 17in of port per cube tuned to 33hz . The amp was tuned with a DD-1 on a -10dB tone. The death was probably my fault though. I was playing some decaf which I assume is boosted. Sad day today was...

Also the setup will be out of a trunk; if this helps any for 2 12's or 1 18. Also have room for about 5ft3 and + - .5ft3 if I tweak on things with aero ports and obviously smaller ft3 if I go with a sqaure port. Port tuning will most likely be between 28Hz to 34Hz; just depends on the subs I get and the parameters they have.

Ah yes; can't forget about DC too. Thanks for that.

Looking to run around 1500 - 3000 RMS, just depends on the subs. What ever subs I get will determine the amp/power I choose, but will most likely end up with a sundown, audioque, cresendo, cadence in that range. Thanks for the replys guys.

Hey guys, I've haven't had subs in about a couple years now and looking to get some more. Was looking for some opinions on what to get. My old set up consisted of 2 12" RE audio SX subs (old version) and loved them on a clif designs cd860HC (super power hungry amp), plus electrical for it. Looked at getting another set, but have read that the new RE audio sub quality have went down. Looking at something for daily music (smooth and low) and once in a while comp use. Would like something with a 140db + potential (super happy if able to go above 145) and I know amp, electrical, and box/setup is also important factors. Looking for a budget around 600, but can stretch to 1000 if quality is there for it. Thanks for any opinions you guys give.

Man a K24 in a crx is going to be a tight fit. Oil pan clearance and shimmed hood and etc. But on the engine it depends on your power goal. If staying 350hp or below I would stay OE internals. K series engines are pretty strong if tuned correctly. If going 350 and up I would suggest at minimum JE pistons and eagle rods. If looking into 450hp or above I would look into sleeving, IB spec rods, IB spec pistons, IB spec head work from bluepringracing.com , plus a twin disc and scatter sheild with drive shaft shop axles. Also I would recommend Injector ID injectors from xenocron.com. They have way better atomization patterns compared to RC, Precision, or Accel injectors. Also I would either use Kpro or AEM computers.

You should see no poor effects from idling your engine. Most engine wear actually comes from the start up where there is no oil pressure to keep the metal to metal parts from contacting. Also if your using dino oil change it every 3k miles. If using synthetic like mobile 1 or amsoil I would go up to 10K. I change mine every 10K on mobile 1. Engine currently has 228,xxx miles on it. Only use .5 quarts between oil change and I think most of that is the slight leak I have at my front crank seal. Car manufactures like BMW and Lexus change theirs around 10K miles. And Lexus is using 5w-20 synthetic blend on their 10k oil change models. They just started this so their hasn't been any cars with a ton of miles on them to see any nill effects, if any on them.

Yeah I would suggest a 700R4 if going full out race. Buddy has one on a built LS3 02 camaro spraying a progressive 2 stage 500 shot on it. Handles everything he throws at it. And personal opinion I believe the turbo 350 is no better than the 4L60 in comparision to power handling and strucural design, but are cost effetive transmissions to use though in