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Posts posted by 2007TBSS
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Had you asked me a week ago they were meh. Now, I'm impressed.
I wish the video could convey how much louder it is. I'm shocked,.
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Did some upgrades last night. The difference is unreal.
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Can I stray from the 2^3ft per sub rule for the sake of tuning? Or does that number need to stay pretty close?
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I'll probably end up with a HiFonics 5 channel for saving room sake.
It says it'll do 1ohm mono bu with my 2ohm DVC's I can only run it 2 or .5. So unless those amps are ballsyer than I think they are, it'll be 750 x 1.
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4 4" aero 21 in length...... tuned to about 36
you can also try shrinking your box down a bit
The RE site recommends 2^3ft per sub. Is that semi negotiable based on port tuning?
I was actually incorrect on the original post, I can only go 20" high instead of 25".
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Dammit. I always have this trouble with ported boxes.
Whenever I get the port area right, my tune is at like 50hz unless the port is like 3 feet long.
The subs RE SEX 12's.
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I wanna do a smaller ported side fire box so I have some cargo area left. I have some 4" Aeroports that I wanna run. Does the port area per Square foot matter so much when not doing slotted ports? This seems to be the right size and tuned right. Is there anything I am missing or does this look good?
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Anyone got a link to the vids? They don't seem to be showing up anymore.
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Hoooooooooollly effin junk......not gettin one of those any time soon.. Haha most I though was $50K but then I was like naaaa can't b. so I thought $12k and then I was just literally gasped and blown away when u said $75-125k..DAYUM!
If you want a nice one with more than 3 axis, fast rapid and rigid spindle, they can crawl much higher than that. Much higher. Go to YouTube and search 5axis milling. The technology is astounding.
You can probably step up into one of these for $300,000 $500,000 or so. Maybe more.
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Hoooooooooollly effin junk......not gettin one of those any time soon.. Haha most I though was $50K but then I was like naaaa can't b. so I thought $12k and then I was just literally gasped and blown away when u said $75-125k..DAYUM!
If you want a nice one with more than 3 axis, fast rapid and rigid spindle, they can crawl much higher than that. Much higher. Go to YouTube and search 5axis milling. The technology is astounding.
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Real nice man! I know these machines costs thousands. How much exactly??
New? $75-125k. Used you can get them fairly cheap but they are expensive to ship, set and house, plus maintenance and replacement parts are outrageous. And thats if you can do the actual troubleshooting and replacement without calling in a tech for $400/hr.
Most of them have a 3ft thick slab poured under them to keep the vibration to a minimum. Plus they run on 220v or 440v so the electricity will be a bit pricey too. I called one time thinking about renting a shithole down in the bottoms of KC and the guys at a local sales place here in town suggested a lease for $1500/mo for 5 years and then you buy the machine for $1.
Tooling, another $2-3k plus vises are $300-500 each and fixturing......
So unless you have a lead on some contracts, they'll start to add up pretty fast.
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Thats some good shit man. I wish i had a cnc to do stuff like that on.
Yeah, but the rest of the week, they have the balls to ask you to make their shit.
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how much for a set?
I don't wanna turn this into a sales thread but feel free to send me an offer on the extra set.
Need some good 1/0 to go from front to back now.
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Want to make me a few pairs
I made 2 sets in case I messed up on the program and jacked one. I didn't want to start over.
But alas, I made no mistakes so I have an extra set.
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I wanted a Kinetik 1800 under the hood of the SS but it wouldn't fit standing up. Got some measurements and decided to lay it on it's side and custom fab a billet battery tray and custom terminals. This is just terminals so far. I'll make the tray and put together an install vid when it's done.
Threw it all together in a video.
Enjoy.
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Hmmmm my OCD is getting the better of me with mix/matching, otherwise I'd be all over this!
This. I have a Kinetik 1800 under the hood. What can happen mixing batts? I need a backup for the rear before I switch out to my new amps.
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Can I get a quote on 2 LVL3 18's, a 2.0k and a 175.4?
Thanks.
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Always been relatively slow for me. I just click a link and change tabs anymore. Come back later.
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Hey, saw you post this on tbssowners today. I did this on my tbss, the wire was way too short from tha fuse box to (+) side terminal on batt and my red plastic cover was somewhat cut to help get a little more slack, which is how I got it when purchased the truck. So I took off both the plastic end covers and merged all wires accordingly to a side terminal. But very important to keep the negative amp draw clamp, like stated, to have the alternator function properly..
Also, if doing the big 3 you need to rout the new negative through that negative amp draw clamp, apperantly if you don't your alt will not be charging sufficently..
Yeah, not many TBSS' on here so I thought I'd ask both.
What do you mean "and merged all wires accordingly to a side terminal?" Did you remove the factory ring or just the plastic covering? Did you end up replacing that fuse block to + terminal wire? I saw how short it was and think I may need to completely replace it. If I lay my battery on it's side, the + terminal will be farthest from the block so I'm sure it'll be too short.
Is the draw clamp the ring that goes around all the ground wires? Is the ring itself the sensor or is there another part that needs to be in contact?
I know jack shit about these fancy new charging systems and I don't really have the cash on hand to be replacing shit. Especially expensive GM sensors or worse.
And I looked today, I think a run of 1/0 will fit through that draw clamp. Got any pics of yours by chance?
And yeah, I looked at at the XS battery but damn it's pricey.
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Yea its fine and that other fuse is for your hitch (last picture posted).
The right hand one powers the block and the left hand side goes to the back for hitch/towing lights?
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So I can whack off the ends and put them into a terminal block? What about replacing the ones I can reach with good 4ga? Like the one from the fuse block to the + terminal?
I'm not sure what's gonna cause problems if anything and whats not.
I don't wanna get it all done and have a check engine light or some such silliness.
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how would you go about the power mangement system ? if you installed a h/o alt?
I have no idea. I long for the days when you could just cut the shit out and leave the stuff you wanted and the vehicle didn't bitch about it. I'm afraid to touch damn near anything these days. There's sensors and modules connected to everything.
And BTW, I found this when I was yanking the battery and tray.
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as for your second question, i haven;t messed with the fatory locations only added more. But yes to the first question.
I know that ring that goes around the ground wires is a power management system that senses current draw and adjusts current from the alternator to the battery accordingly. But I wonder if there is anything that senses off those factory ring terminals. Kinda like how they say not to replace the factory wires in the big 3, only piggy back them for a similar reason I think.
WINDOW FLEX SSA Crescendo Blazer
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Holy shit.