2007TBSS

Holy shit.

Had you asked me a week ago they were meh. Now, I'm impressed. I wish the video could convey how much louder it is. I'm shocked,.

Did some upgrades last night. The difference is unreal.

Can I stray from the 2^3ft per sub rule for the sake of tuning? Or does that number need to stay pretty close?

I'll probably end up with a HiFonics 5 channel for saving room sake. It says it'll do 1ohm mono bu with my 2ohm DVC's I can only run it 2 or .5. So unless those amps are ballsyer than I think they are, it'll be 750 x 1.

The RE site recommends 2^3ft per sub. Is that semi negotiable based on port tuning? I was actually incorrect on the original post, I can only go 20" high instead of 25".

Dammit. I always have this trouble with ported boxes. Whenever I get the port area right, my tune is at like 50hz unless the port is like 3 feet long. The subs RE SEX 12's.

I wanna do a smaller ported side fire box so I have some cargo area left. I have some 4" Aeroports that I wanna run. Does the port area per Square foot matter so much when not doing slotted ports? This seems to be the right size and tuned right. Is there anything I am missing or does this look good?

Anyone got a link to the vids? They don't seem to be showing up anymore.

If you want a nice one with more than 3 axis, fast rapid and rigid spindle, they can crawl much higher than that. Much higher. Go to YouTube and search 5axis milling. The technology is astounding. You can probably step up into one of these for $300,000 $500,000 or so. Maybe more.

If you want a nice one with more than 3 axis, fast rapid and rigid spindle, they can crawl much higher than that. Much higher. Go to YouTube and search 5axis milling. The technology is astounding.

New? $75-125k. Used you can get them fairly cheap but they are expensive to ship, set and house, plus maintenance and replacement parts are outrageous. And thats if you can do the actual troubleshooting and replacement without calling in a tech for $400/hr. Most of them have a 3ft thick slab poured under them to keep the vibration to a minimum. Plus they run on 220v or 440v so the electricity will be a bit pricey too. I called one time thinking about renting a shithole down in the bottoms of KC and the guys at a local sales place here in town suggested a lease for $1500/mo for 5 years and then you buy the machine for $1. Tooling, another $2-3k plus vises are $300-500 each and fixturing...... So unless you have a lead on some contracts, they'll start to add up pretty fast.

Yeah, but the rest of the week, they have the balls to ask you to make their shit.

I don't wanna turn this into a sales thread but feel free to send me an offer on the extra set. Need some good 1/0 to go from front to back now.

I made 2 sets in case I messed up on the program and jacked one. I didn't want to start over. But alas, I made no mistakes so I have an extra set.

I wanted a Kinetik 1800 under the hood of the SS but it wouldn't fit standing up. Got some measurements and decided to lay it on it's side and custom fab a billet battery tray and custom terminals. This is just terminals so far. I'll make the tray and put together an install vid when it's done. Threw it all together in a video. Enjoy.

Bassman vid?

This. I have a Kinetik 1800 under the hood. What can happen mixing batts? I need a backup for the rear before I switch out to my new amps.

Can I get a quote on 2 LVL3 18's, a 2.0k and a 175.4? Thanks.

Always been relatively slow for me. I just click a link and change tabs anymore. Come back later.

Yeah, not many TBSS' on here so I thought I'd ask both. What do you mean "and merged all wires accordingly to a side terminal?" Did you remove the factory ring or just the plastic covering? Did you end up replacing that fuse block to + terminal wire? I saw how short it was and think I may need to completely replace it. If I lay my battery on it's side, the + terminal will be farthest from the block so I'm sure it'll be too short. Is the draw clamp the ring that goes around all the ground wires? Is the ring itself the sensor or is there another part that needs to be in contact? I know jack shit about these fancy new charging systems and I don't really have the cash on hand to be replacing shit. Especially expensive GM sensors or worse. And I looked today, I think a run of 1/0 will fit through that draw clamp. Got any pics of yours by chance? And yeah, I looked at at the XS battery but damn it's pricey.

The right hand one powers the block and the left hand side goes to the back for hitch/towing lights?

So I can whack off the ends and put them into a terminal block? What about replacing the ones I can reach with good 4ga? Like the one from the fuse block to the + terminal? I'm not sure what's gonna cause problems if anything and whats not. I don't wanna get it all done and have a check engine light or some such silliness.

I have no idea. I long for the days when you could just cut the shit out and leave the stuff you wanted and the vehicle didn't bitch about it. I'm afraid to touch damn near anything these days. There's sensors and modules connected to everything. And BTW, I found this when I was yanking the battery and tray.