2007TBSS
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Posts posted by 2007TBSS
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This may or may not be a retarded question, but I'll ask anyways. Can I cut the factory ends off the wires coming to the battery and strip them back and insert them into a custom terminal block?
I'm gonna whip up a program and make my own terminals out of billet. I can do whatever hole pattern I want and the cleaner it looks the better as far as I'm concerned. Can I cut off the power and ground ends, loop the ground wires through the power management sensor and insert the wires into their own hole in the terminals or is there some sort of sensors that will get messed up if I do?
Worst case scenario, I can cut the plastic covering back to where the wires merge and leave the rest so it will mount flat on top of the block right?
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I checked out this dude on eBay CopperCableMan and he sounds legit. I'm gonna check him out when I do mine. In all honesty I know jack shit about 1/0 but this is what he said to me. I'm gonna order next week I think.
Dear Buyer,We sell all of our cable at a "by the foot" price. #1/0 Cable is $2.69/ft and we have no minimum to purchase. The cable comes in Red, Black, DK. Blue, Lt. Blue, Yellow, Dk. Green and Lt. Green and we will custom print on your cable free of charge.
50ft is required for free shipping, please feel free to contact me direct @ 507-331-4363 if you would like a quote or you can always send me an email and I can send you a Paypal request.
Thanks for the opportunity to quote!
Jeff
- coppercableman
Dear coppercableman,Is the wire CCA or OFC?
Our cables are made from 99.999% pure copper conductor, Class K Strand (extremely flexible), the copper itself is electrolytic copper. We would fall under the category of OFC copper, but our cable is actually a much higher grade than the two that you mentioned.Regards,
- coppercableman
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Give ya $100 shipped for those BTLS.
lol there worth more then that
They're only worth what someone will pay for them.
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Give ya $100 shipped for those BTLS.
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Crazy.
Wonder what the TV's at CES will look like 10 years from now.
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Trystar. Coppercableman on ebay. Best stuff for the money.
Dear Buyer,We sell all of our cable at a "by the foot" price. #1/0 Cable is $2.69/ft and we have no minimum to purchase. The cable comes in Red, Black, DK. Blue, Lt. Blue, Yellow, Dk. Green and Lt. Green and we will custom print on your cable free of charge.
50ft is required for free shipping, please feel free to contact me direct @ 507-331-4363 if you would like a quote or you can always send me an email and I can send you a Paypal request.
Thanks for the opportunity to quote!
Jeff
- coppercableman
Dear coppercableman,Awesome! Is the wire CCA or OFC?
Our cables are made from 99.999% pure copper conductor, Class K Strand (extremely flexible), the copper itself is electrolytic copper. We would fall under the category of OFC copper, but our cable is actually a much higher grade than the two that you mentioned.Regards,
Jeff Naumann 507-331-4363
- coppercableman
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I have looked at 100 different kinds of 1/0. Cheap, overly expensive ect. What's the cheapest priced/acceptable quality 1/0. I got a new Kinetik to buy as well so I wanna keep the price down if possible, but I don't want shit either. I need probably 15ft ground and 20ft power for run to back and big 3. I think Knukonceptz was about $160 with rings.
Thanks.
There is a pretty good wire comparison here
Just read the whole thing! Thanks for posting!
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Our 3 foot side post 1/0 AWG Charging System Upgrade Kit is $153.95 - that covers your Big 3, only our kit will offer better performance than connecting the battery (-) to the engine block. LINK It includes EVERYTHING you need to install it.
We sell 1/0 AWG for $6/foot in that length. You do not need a length of ground cable to run front to rear. 4-5 foot of 1/0 AWG ground cable would be plenty to go the frame on the same side that you ground your battery and alt via our Charging System Upgrade Kit. LINK
Our 1/0 AWG Lugs run $3.75 each and they are super thick stock which is tinned. LINK
I'll terminate the cables for you and heat shrink them with SUPER THICK adhesive lined heat shrink for $1 each termination. Then, you need to consider:
1. Fuse for the charge lead?
2. Fuse for the lead going to the rear?
We're a one-stop shop. We sell it all and I have been involved in car audio since 1984. We offer the cable and parts we do because we have hand selected them. I'm obviously not the cheapest . . . but we do give a 10% discount to all SMD Members.
Be sure you're comparing Apples to Apples in your search. The cable we offer is tinned OFC that meets the AWG specification for all of our kits and custom cables. Welding cable is great for . . . well, welding. The jacket has no immunity to petroleum based products nor does it offer good insulation from heat.
While I'm positive that's quality stuff, the question is do I NEED $400 worth of 1/0 to run $300 worth of amps.
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I bought some of the cadence 1/0 and a few swipes of a razor blade will take the copper right off. But still not bad at 27 dollars for 17 feet!
Meaning it's the copper jacketed aluminum? I'm not sure I'm up to speed on the CCA and OFC thing yet.
Maybe I should read up on that first. Big difference in conductivity?
Dammit, I just wanted to throw down on some decent 1.0. Not take a lesson in metallurgy.
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Also, I plan on running a BRZ2100 and Z80.4 from two Kinetik 1800's if that makes a difference.
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Here's what it says.
Features:
Model: 0G100
Gauge: 0 Gauge
Wire Length: 25ft
Cadence Cool Cable Technology
Special Winding Configuration Reduces Unwanted Noises and Maximizes Current Transfer
High Purity Oxygen Free Copper Standing
Incredibly Flexible Yet Extremely Durable
Protective Ultra Soft PVC Translucent Jacket
Braided Super-Flex Design Ensures Optimum Surface Area and Flexibility
Designed for Show Car Performance
1 Foot Markings on Wire Make it Easy to Read and Easy to Cut to Appropriate Size
Ultra-Pure Copper Conduction
High Current Competition Class Power Cable
Eliminates Noise from the AC Line
Shielding From RFI and EMI
Resist Abrasions, Chemicals, and Temperature Extremes
Rated at 110°C (Celsius) / 230°F (Fahrenheit)
Guaranteed to Make Your Amplifier Run Cooler and Sound Better
Stranding: 7 x 7 x 55 x 0.15mm (7 Ropes Consisting of 7 Sets of 55 Strands of 0.15mm Wire)
Color: Blue
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I have looked at 100 different kinds of 1/0. Cheap, overly expensive ect. What's the cheapest priced/acceptable quality 1/0. I got a new Kinetik to buy as well so I wanna keep the price down if possible, but I don't want shit either. I need probably 15ft ground and 20ft power for run to back and big 3. I think Knukonceptz was about $160 with rings.
Thanks.
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sometimes i wish my trail blazer was rwd so i can mess around like that., but it being awd has some damn good benefits. sick btw
Just need to step it up a notch.
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see my door panell thread, we did exactly what your talking step by step
Got a link? I have a similar question. Skimmed the first 5 pages and didn't see it.
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How do you measure the min/max rise and does it matter?
You meter it while it plays?
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Lady in Red is fuckin ho-larious.
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Holy shitballs, those doors are coming off sooner or later.
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While I know we see lots of crazy bastages on here running XS batteries by the dozen, I would wager a significant bet that a majority of their batteries end up under the hood. I think it would be well known by now if it was going to be an issue.
Battery Install Question: Can I cut off the factory Wire Ends?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Cut the entire ring off and insert the stripped back factory wires into a terminal block or cut the plastic off the terminals and use the factory rings on top of the new terminal blocks?