Jump to content

2007TBSS

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    254

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by 2007TBSS

  10. Box Design Help? EDIT: Done. Pic Added.

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Well, shit. Do I need to readjust all the outside dimensions so I can make the port taller without hitting the bottom of the subs? Is the gap between the back of the port and the back wall of the box a problem so long as it's wider than the port is tall. In essence, not choking the port or is there some sort of rule of thumb for port clearance?

    Sorry this is a pain. lol Thanks for the help!

  16. Box Design Help? EDIT: Done. Pic Added.

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by 2007TBSS

    i suppose it's always possible, but there's no definite answer or rule of thumb, as long as the sub isn't touching the bottom of the box. if you make a sturdy enough baffle to support the subs (and the possible luggage) i doubt you'll have a problem.

    i could help you out with torres calculator, it's pretty easy to use. basically you just have to keep track of a few numbers.

    post a picture of the calculator and label (with numbers) all the parts you don't understand or are confused about and i'd be happy to explain them.

    Basically, the problem I have is I know the L X W but need to know the height. Also, I have never worked with slotted ports, so I would need all the port dimensions and I'm not sure what to tune at so I don't even know what to type in there.

    So:

    1) Need to know tune frequency

    2) Slotted or round ports? Aero ports?

    3) If I type in L and W, will it give me H?

    4) If I find L, W, and H and tell it I want ported and frequency, will it tell me all box and port dimensions?

    Edit:

    OK, now how do I add ports? Is there a formula for port dimensions including frequency tune and box size? The sub specs recommend < 2^3ft per sub ported so I left the length full wide and adjusted width to get just under 4^3ft but I assume that will change by the time I add port displacement?? Sorry for the extreme noob-ness. Thanks for your patience.

    torres.png

  17. Box Design Help? EDIT: Done. Pic Added.

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    actually if you're not running too much power, that might be more reason to go ported because output might not be very noticeable, especially in such a big vehicle.

    your idea with the metal grilles would work just fine if you choose to go that route. designing a sealed box isn't really that hard, really just a matter of playing with the dimensions until you get the right volume. the12volt.com has a nice little volume calculator for rectangular boxes that accounts for the wood thickness.

    for ported it's a little more complicated, but still pretty easy if you use torres calculator. you'll have to do a search for it on the forum because i'm too lazy to link it right now (sorry :pardon: )

    I saw the Torres calc but frankly, I'm not sure what half the stuff means. I guess I was wondering if there was a tipping point of the box being *too* shallow and if that would effect sound?

  19. Box Design Help? EDIT: Done. Pic Added.

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by 2007TBSS

    Sup guys. Wondered if I could get a little help with a sub enclosure. I got 2 RE SEX12's that will be powered by 300RMS per sub via XTANT amps. My goal is to leave some space for luggage and such in the back of the Trailblazer, so I was considering using the width and length available and keeping the height to a minimum and firing the subs up. Then adding a cover piece of 3/4" and doing some custom aluminum covers for the speakers to keep them from being damaged.(I'm a machinist) I am assuming sealed would be best since I'm not running an insane amount of power to the subs. I'm not looking to compete or have insane amounts of body flex, just a good clean sound for all kinds of music. It would be nice to get a compromise of some low drops and nice tight sounds as well, if that is possible.

    I'm pretty good with my hands and have access to tools so I would be willing to try about any kind of design within reason.

    Thanks for your help!

    Here's the specs for the subs.

    Recommended Enclosure Specifications

    Recommended Enclosure Type Ported / Vented

    Sealed

    Minimum Sealed Box Volume 0.75 cubic feet

    Maximum Sealed Box Volume 1.0 cubic feet

    Minimum Ported Box Volume 1.5 cubic feet

    Maximum Ported Box Volume 2.0 cubic feet

    Top-Mount Depth 7"

    Cutout Diameter 11-1/4"

    Shallow Mount Installation No

    Space available is about 46" wide by 31" deep. Height unknown.

    IMG_2395.jpg

    Amps pic just for fun.

    IMG_2398.jpg

    EDIT:

    All Done. Get installed Thursday. :popcorn:

    IMG_2472.jpg

  20. What steps to detail/restore paint?

    in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!

    Posted

    Depending on your budget, I'd say your best bet for a beginner would be a random orbital. I use the Griots with 5" hydr-tech pads. For simplicity sake, I'd recommend using the tangerine pads with some Meguiars 205 polish.

    Wash with a heavy concentration of Dawn dishsoap to remove wax. I use a microfiber mitt and soak the whole car down with suds to start a nice soak before washing the whole car. Do from the body seam up and then go back and do rockers and bumpers. Use two buckets with grit guards to keep from doing further damage to the paint. Also use two buckets grit guards and microfiber EVERY time you wash. Then dry blowing out all cracks, emblems and crevices ect.

    This video is awesome for explanation.

    Claybar. I like the Mothers kit you can buy at any auto parts store. It has a nice gentle clay and it smells like cinnamon which is the tits.

    Tear each claybar in half, flatten to the size of a golf bal. Lots of spray, GENTLY rub the clay back and forth one panel at a time and wipe dry. Then go to the next panel.

    Tape off all trim and mirrors ect with painters tape.

    Spritz your pad with a couple sprays of detailers spray and then add 3 small dime sized dots of polish on the pad. Before turning on the polisher, press the pad onto the paint in a few spots to prevent polish sling. Put polisher ON THE PAINT BEFORE YOU TURN IT ON.

    Do a 24" X 24" spot at a time and do 3 passes. One pass consists of side to side, down with about 1/3rd of a pad overlap, repeat. Then up and down = 1 pass.

    Spray a couple spritzes on the polish and wipe clean with a good clean microfiber. I use Meguiars M34 for wipe off.

    Move to another spot and repeat until you have covered the whole car.

    Wash again with heavy concentration of dish soap. Dry well, blow out all cracks ect. I use a leaf blower for this.

    Apply 3 coats of a good quality wax, do tires with a water based tire gel such as the Optimum Tire Gel and enjoy.

    IMG_1545.jpg

    TB007.jpg

  21. Anyone Else Remember When a Walled Van Cost a Years Salary?

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted · Edited by 2007TBSS

    Now they can be done for $1500?? I have been out of audio for about 10 years, at least so far as having expendable cash to build systems from the ground up. I remember when an in dash DVD player with LCD screen cost close to $2000 and a D-Class 1000 X 1 amp cost $1500. Of course there were amps that advertised 500 watts for less than a grand but you didn't want them in your car and they were succeptable to blowing magic smoke at any moment.

    Anyone else remember when amps for $1/watt was the norm?

×
×
  • Create New...