BEEMDUB
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Posts posted by BEEMDUB
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Today i took out the old rcas and plugged the new ones in. And no matter how i re arrange them they won't work.
What headunit do you have?
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Excited to see this build! Tuned !
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Old ones are jacked up and ruined...
Well its weird that the new ones just flat out dont work.......are you sure you have the rcas in your rear preout of your h/u and on the input not the output of the amp?
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So i just replaced my old rcs with some knu crystal rcas and hooked it up to my hu and amp. And no matter how i change the wires the sub won't play. Someone for the love of god help me out
hook up the old ones and then see if they work again...
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break in? let em rip!
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I think the knob on Hifonics amps changes bass boost just so you know.
There's a gain and a bass boost knob like all amps....I haven't touched my bb knob...
he means the remote knob that plugs into the amp with a telephone cord
Oh I don't even have one I use lc-1s for both my mids and highs amp rcas and sub amp rcas..
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I think the knob on Hifonics amps changes bass boost just so you know.
There's a gain and a bass boost knob like all amps....I haven't touched my bb knob...
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you could also try throwin a relay in there and seein if that helps.
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and the 3k is both amps combined (my bxi2607 and p400.4) But then again my 400.4 isn about 60% gain on front and rear channels and but the 2607 is gained out max without clipping no bass boost of course
gain position doesn't matter. how the fuck do you have the gain maxed out on the hifonics? only way i can see that is if your headunit preouts output .2v
I shouldn't of phrased it like that I didn't mean I had it maxed out as in the knob cranked all the way, I tuned the amp with an oscope and its as high as it'll go without clipping I mean...
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i think your ok... if i was you, id just maybe add more reserve (bats) and spend your coin else where until you see some dip....
your meter is fine... even if it was a cheap turd.. and it wasnt totally acurate, your also looking for drop... if your meter was off, you would still see drop.......... and you see none...(or not anything ape shit)... so, start thinkin a bit bigger!!!...just my .02 coins
Sounds good I think I will grab two batts and take out the stock batt...
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If they are both reading the same I'd say you are golden, the odds of 2 diff. meters giving an identical, and off, reading has got to be almost impossible.
hmm well now I'm wondering how the hell my stock electrical is stabily keeping almost 3k of wattage going...
impedance rise probably
x2 probably not seeing the full 3k
and the 3k is both amps combined (my bxi2607 and p400.4) But then again my 400.4 isn about 60% gain on front and rear channels and but the 2607 is gained out max without clipping no bass boost of course
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If they are both reading the same I'd say you are golden, the odds of 2 diff. meters giving an identical, and off, reading has got to be almost impossible.
hmm well now I'm wondering how the hell my stock electrical is stabily keeping almost 3k of wattage going...
impedance rise probably
I got em wired to 1 ohm...I touched the leads of the dmm together and they present 8 ohms of resistance and then I measured the speaker leads and they were 1.8...
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If they are both reading the same I'd say you are golden, the odds of 2 diff. meters giving an identical, and off, reading has got to be almost impossible.
hmm well now I'm wondering how the hell my stock electrical is stabily keeping almost 3k of wattage going...
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I like to use my dmm to make sure the voltmeter is accurate play it and watch them both see how it does
Yep thats exactly what I did and it was right on point with my multimeter
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I guess I have to ask....what volt meter?
This one I adjusted it and it was exactly on point with my multimeter
And what car??..(the dodge?) My stock DENSO kicked ass... For a stock unit, ... Also ?160amp?
07 Dodge Charger and yep I'm almost positive mines a 160 amp one
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Sooo I got a voltmeter in the mail yesterday and threw it in the car hooked up to my sub amp....driving voltage stayed in low 14s high 13's...resting voltage with the acc on was about 12.3.....Then I tested it and let the subs rip full tilt on some decaf and the voltage stayed in the mid to low 13's and high 12's. So I took my multimeter and put it to the sub amp to double check and make sure the voltmeter wasn't trickin me..it read the same exact thing!...Is it true that my voltage could stay that good? I only have the stock battery and stock 160 amp alt right now with the big three and I'm running a bxi2607d and a p400.4 off of that..
Also I did mount a 1.5 amp bat charger in the trunk and I've been pluggin it in for the last 2 nights since I got the charger...
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Non power rca in line noise filters have worked wonders for me in the past and there cheap!
I have not had that problem in years but the quality of my gear has gotten so much better and pricy since then
Let me see if I can you a link
I actually have a filter like that already on the rcas...it helped a great bit...but not all the way > : (
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I've had the same problem with my pioneer headunit.
Every thing you tried, I have tried as well. but still failed to fix the noise.
Until I used an inline power noise filter.
I just matched up the fuse rating to the headunit and bought the one closest to the fusing.
I used this one
http://www.sonicelec...I.E.-NF-20.html
But here is a cheaper one But does the same exact thing, but looks better.
*Edit* lol nvm im slow...this goes like you connect the red to the constant 12v and then ground the black and then connect the blue to the battery constant on the h/u correct?
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Does the hiss go away when you unplug the rca's from the amp? Does it go away with them plugged into the amp but not the head unit?
II don't remember exactly I know I tried that though but say if I unplug the rca from the headunit and keep the rcas plugged into the amp can the speakers still produce ground noise?
I ran my RCA's right next to my 1/0 power wire right down the middle of the car with the wire and rca's taped to each other all the way down with no noise what so ever.
First pull all rca's out from the h/u and amp and let them lay there and have the amp powered and car running to see if it is your amp making the noise and connect everything back up 1 piece at a time till you encounter the noise, it is possible a ground issue it is also possible a colder solder joint inside the h/u or amp but you'll need more equipment to replace what is in there now to make certain.
You could try and ground the rca's as well as moving the ground locations at the amp and h/u if your unable to locate it through doing the other things.
Yea I guess I'll have to work my way from amp to headunit, although I've basically already done it I am almost positive its because of the rcas but to me it seems that if grounding the h/u rca leads didn't work that things would point more to the rca's just being bad..even though theyre brand new..but cheap lol
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the way i fixed mine was take the radio apart, and try to plug it all back in, and the whine could also be bc ur kenwood is cheap... i have a poineer avh3200 double din and have had no whine what so ever
saying I have whine because I don't have the same h/u as you doesn't help at all...thanks tho
why are you using splitters and such? do you only have two preouts?
Yea I only have a front preout and then one rear/sub preout
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I have a ground loop and it's driving me freaking crazy...my system consists of a kenwood kvt-512 to a rf p4004.4 and hifonics bxi2607d...I have the front preouts to two splitters into the 400.4 and the rear preout is goin to the bxi2607d...The rear preout used to have a ground loop too but I fixed it by grounding the rcas to the headunit...The front preouts though are driving me crazy It hisses when the car is in acc position and makes a high pitch tone AND hiss when the car is on all the way. It used to be much worse the other day but I put a ground loop isolator on the front rcas and it helped quite a bit but I still hear it Heres all the things I've tried all ready
1. grounding front preout rcas to chassis ---fail
2. grounding front preout rcas to h/u ---fail
3. grounding 400.4 to chassis rather than the battery --- fail
4. grounding h/u to different ground on chassis --- fail
My front and rear rcas are ran through the center of the car and are not ran with ANY power wires at all...what should I try next?
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*Edit* I dont even remember writing this lmao but I take it back cuz I love ebay
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are these good? also is the aspect ratio the same as the "series"?
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you can fit a 235-65-22 no problem, you can try a 30 series tire but i wouldnt unless u wanna drive slow and watch the road for every single bump
hmm I looked on tirerack.com and they said they didn't have that size?
My New RCA Wont Work. HELP!!!!!
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted · Edited by BEEMDUB
Ninjad lol