RiccardoGutiérrez

lol I also noticed that my license plate kinda broke around one of the bolts holding it down so now its just one bolt holding my license plate on >-<

Ok I swapped the fuses between my clarion and t1500 and still did the same thing, so I checked the voltages: [For car audio on, song was Pimpin by Cyberoptics at volume 25/39] (car Off/Audio Off): 12.57v (car On/Audio Off): 14.30v (car Off/Audio On): 11.55v and decreasing with each bass hit [but no cut off on the mids] (car On/Audio On): 12.5v and decreasing with each bass hit on the last test, my clarion amp did cut off on me when the voltage got to about 12.6 to 12.5v

the cable running to my batteries is 4 gauge and I havent done a big 3 yet until I swap out my engine for the zetec so I can upgrade the alternator from the stock. 4 gauge all the way, 4 gauge from the 2nd battery to the distribution block, and 4 gauge to the t1500 amp, but 8 gauge for my component amp since I cant fit anything bigger in it id put a lot of money on it that that is your problem. im surprised that your mono amp doesnt tank first. yea man that t1500 puts out more than rated or at least tries to. upgrade all that wire to batteries to 0 gauge, and do big 3 0 gauge and i bet that solves your problem. the 8 gauge to the highs amp is ok. alright I'll do that, I'll see how much 0 gauge is for this whole setup will be, then do a big 3 after I get my replacement engine. is there an adapter to connect 0 gauge to my t1500 amp? because its max power cable size is 4 gauge yes there is. the one i used was 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer from knuconceptz. also let us know your voltage on full tilt like Kranny suggested, that will tell a lot alright no prob, I'll check that out too then and check out my options alright, I'll be sure to check all of it but Im pretty sure its not a bad ground or a loose connection though. Since I had recently disconnected and reconnected everything and made sure it was tight

yea thats what Im going to do tomorrow since thats my day off, I'll be sure to update you all when I find out the readings

the cable running to my batteries is 4 gauge and I havent done a big 3 yet until I swap out my engine for the zetec so I can upgrade the alternator from the stock. 4 gauge all the way, 4 gauge from the 2nd battery to the distribution block, and 4 gauge to the t1500 amp, but 8 gauge for my component amp since I cant fit anything bigger in it id put a lot of money on it that that is your problem. im surprised that your mono amp doesnt tank first. yea man that t1500 puts out more than rated or at least tries to. upgrade all that wire to batteries to 0 gauge, and do big 3 0 gauge and i bet that solves your problem. the 8 gauge to the highs amp is ok. alright I'll do that, I'll see how much 0 gauge is for this whole setup will be, then do a big 3 after I get my replacement engine. is there an adapter to connect 0 gauge to my t1500 amp? because its max power cable size is 4 gauge

the cable running to my batteries is 4 gauge and I havent done a big 3 yet until I swap out my engine for the zetec so I can upgrade the alternator from the stock. 4 gauge all the way, 4 gauge from the 2nd battery to the distribution block, and 4 gauge to the t1500 amp, but 8 gauge for my component amp since I cant fit anything bigger in it jw, but how would I be able to connect 0 gauge to my amps if my t1500 I think supports up to 4 gauge and my clarion up to 8 gauge? Is there an adapter for that?

well, so far I havent found any solutions but tomorrow is my day off so I will be experimenting on how to stop this from happening

alright no prob

Thats what I brought up to the previous person, it doesnt cut off when my t1500 is disconnected. so your bass amp is taking up the juice ...i think its the current from the rf amp I was thinking about that, but how do I get around that? have separate power cables and remove them from being on a distribution block and have each cable go directly to the battery?

alright, I'll try that out when I get the chance, but from the looks of it, the fuse looks identical to the rest of my fuses

I havent checked the voltage but I should, I'll have to check it out on another day though

Thats what I brought up to the previous person, it doesnt cut off when my t1500 is disconnected.

i cant since I dont have an available amp in general and currently, I cant but I dont think its the amp because when I had my t1500 out of my car, I could even raise the volume to above 25 and have no problems, and I rarely ever have problems like this, but its just sometimes when I play a very heavy bass song after a little while, my mids amp cuts off and then turns back on after a second

I figure its a lack of power, but what could I do to prevent this? separate the power wires and have them individually go to the batteries, get a 3rd battery, get a capacitor, upgrade alternator?

Hey guys, I'm not entirely sure what the problem is here so I decided to post it up on here. My problem is sometimes when i play a heavy bass song, my subs will still play but my full range speakers will cut off temporarily... I have 2 car batteries, my primary battery is a standard car battery and I have an optima yellow top battery in the back. My alternator is the stock 110A alternator that came with my car. And I have a T1500.1bd CP that powers my 3 12" subs. and my full range speakers are Rockford Fosgate P1683 speakers connected to a Clarion XR2410 amp. both are connected to a distribution block too. Here's some pics