4thclasspower

yep, steel, concrete, all types of wood, plastic, fiberglass resin, granite, acrylic, and yes even tiles have been done before. The point in any of that is for a rigid, smooth surface, but using some materials can add an unwanted resonance at certain frequencies so for SPL that can work well, but for SQ not so much. I use the good ol fiberglass resin/sand/portland cement mixture for a solid, resonant free material. Oh and also hexagons and octagons have also been widely used with just OK results. Believe it or not, simple rectangles and squares have performed the best in cars, with some key angle shaping on the interior corners. Would you be so kind as to share with us how to blend and apply this mixture?

Yes, As far as I understand, standing waves will cultivate mostly in sharp 90 degree corners.

So moving forward, has anyone tried cementing a enclosure? I've noticed that some competitors make use of plexiglass resin to further harden the walls. Out far east like those guys seem to be doing all sorts of crazy things.

Ill post pics of it once can find a memory card in my house. I would like to remind every one that this post was not to debate horns only. And please don't post rude responses directed at people claiming what they think people may know about especially if they don't sound like they know what there talking about themselves. Lets please be civil and share knowledge. The horn was placed in a Pontiac Aztek stock interior and the speaker was only rated at 150w. Tang band w8 740 i believe and the substitute woofer was a ten inch RE SRX in the same box's. Were tested in a 15'' mdf box, 15'' burch and 22'' oak. I've never seen to date, someone that has given this much information about there testing so im not really sure where you guys are trying to take this. Like I said Ill take some high definition pics with my $1200 camera once I can find a card

I'm not trying to bad mouth anyone here or cause controversy, so I don't want to go into too much details about the horn, so ill end this part of the subject for me by saying that it was the ''Auto Tuba'' and about $800 worth of testing for my personal satisfaction. It was built right. The wider box will help to hit the low notes better and it does that just fine. I even tried a ten inch driver with the correct parameters and three times the wattage. Same results "for me" In my home right now two 10'' ported drivers against my one 8'' horn is about the same output but the horn sounds a lot cleaner. If you guys think a horn is great in a auto environment please post examples and information on how to build because im crazy enough to do it agian

you just might be right about my vehicle. I had the box first built by a carpenter just to make sure it was structurally sound, then I built two more, one the same size and one wider, and the wider one hit the lows better but would not play as well as the same speaker in a ported box. I have a hatch back so I found the corner loading the best but again like I said, I was not impressed. When I opened the window the sound increased tremendously, but with the window closed, it was like I was in a flat spot. So what do you guy's think about adding tile to the walls? Port design?

Well it's not that I think, I've tried, and I was sadly displeased with the performance to the ear. I even played with the with of the horn let me add(correct speaker for the horn designed and tested) with sad results every time to the ear. Now im using the same horn in my home for my home theater and it shakes the walls on the next floor (only one 8'').

I would like to start of with saying I have experimenting lately with speaker box designs and educating myself with acoustical engineering. One type of enclosure that had fascinated me was the taped horn. I have completed the experiments I wanted with them, and concluded that they don't work well in the car environment. I've noticed that a lot of people are not following some fundamental rules in acoustics, and building there enclosures in-efficiently. Example: The worst enclosure shape to the best shape: Square with speaker centered (maximum standing waves and speaker destruction) Rectangle Triangular Egg shaped the best My next build will include A AQ HDC3 18 Box design: Hexagon shaped using 11 ply, .75 birch, aluminum braced, and now considering to add ceramic tiling to the interior walls. I will be building a standard enclosure,(rectangle/square) of the same volume to test this against. Before I finish, I would like someone(you all) to discuss, what shape, and position is best suited for a port in car audio? I've seen spl boxes with the port extending outside the enclosure, so is this the best? As far as I can remember the port should be at least half its length away from the closest wall.(don't quote me on this). There is almost no information on the web about this stuff, and I hope this discussion can help educate me and other bass heads alike!

ok I got it. 16 sq inches of port per sq foot of box

Just wanted to know if I have the room to fit a working 4th order within a 16 cube area, with a AQ 3 18? oh ya, I still have to break it in, so whats the port size in a reg. box