tacomabanga1986

theres a part on the ddm website that shows and tells u what is what about there hid lighting and what knot, kinda like a consumer service thing did u know that all there hid bulbs are variable wattage? the bulbs will work with 35w or 55w, just the ballast changes that

i had hids since 08 i think or maby 07, does your lights have a high and low beam type bulb and did u get a relay kit for ur ballast to run them with 55w? if the fuse in the relay wireing blew u either have a bad ballast or a short some place, could be a bad grount also if the fuse blowed in the actual headlight harness then the relay isn't wired right some people have to mod some things on there cars for stuff to work i wish ddm would have added a ground wire to go with the ballast to wire str8 to the battery vs grounds at end of the wireing where they plug into ballasts does the lights still work? if not try on a ballast that works to deam the other ballast bad hids are wierd on how they work, i got a book on hid lights from back in the 80's, security lights, parking lot lights use hid bulbs unless they changed to led, the difference in color is due to the difference in chemicals used in the light the hids made for cars are on the same principle but a little different

what does this box come out to on torres box calc? http://files.mitekusa.com/pmsys/F0909151625248005d5.pdf im thinking about building this, all of mtx's boxs are pritty much alike so it should sound good, these 2 10's in the mtx 5500 15 box wanged like hell what is this box tuned to? from what i can make from it it said it was in the 40ish htz range this the box i had the 10's in http://files.mitekusa.com/pmsys/F0909151620564379b0.pdf , sounded killer on everything, i just need something close to it but less in depth, can go more in height if need to

this the best i could find, found on the12volt.com Radio 12v gray/red + radio harness Radio Ground black and black/lt. green - radio harness Radio Ignition pink/yellow + radio harness Radio Illumination orange/tan (dimmer) + radio harness Factory Amp Turn-on N/A Power Antenna N/A LF Speaker +/- dk. grn/yel - dk. grn/lt. blue +,- radio harness or amplifier Notes: The amplifier is behind the glove box. RF Speaker +/- gray/yellow - gray/lt. blue +,- radio harness or amplifier LR Speaker +/- gray/lt. grn - gray/dk. grn +,- radio harness or amplifier RR Speaker +/- dk. grn/lt. grn - dk. grn/gray +,- radio harness or amplifier Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: Yes Type: Sentry Key Part #: 555C, 556U, or 555U Notes: Only vehicles with gray keys have the immobilizer. hope this helps you, i got the information for all the other wires also for remote starts and what knot

what year is your truck?

fuse a wire off ur acc wire, then run it to a switch, and then to your amps, thats how some people do it, there is a remote wire on some or all stock radios, u just have to find it but the acc wire is best to work with, if ur truck is pritty new u might can find the right color wire go to the12volt.com and put in ur trucks information in the "car wireing" part of the site, and it will show u what colors go where and what knot has helped me out a few times so far if ur running 3 or more amps ied suggest useing a relay inline of the remote wire to help with current flow hope this makes sense

the subs love ported boxs, just bigger ones than what i got now, i had em in a 2cf ported box tuned to 36htz and it shook my dash in my truck like my 15's did there more of a sql type sut, with a freq responce of 25-15khtz it works pritty good for any kind of music

ya, but with no job i cant afford much, i just go by what ive learned so far and to see it aint much lol how much would it cost?

i dont need anyone to build anything for me, i got access to a panel saw, have a multitude of routers and router bits, i have a circle jig but its weird to use, i got 3 or 5 table saws i think, just look in the tools section of our work shop i have the knowledge on how to build things, but i cant make much sense of the feedback i get from that box calc ive never been good at ported boxs, and they've needed to be bigger than the space i have available i want small but good sound, im not looking for spl just good sq, im thinking a good sealed box will work for me im more of a, u print it or make me a picture with dementions and i can duplicate anything within reason, just somethings take longer for me to pick up im not on steves nuts, i just come here to learn more about different things and fill in some blanks i have about certain things

it is when i got about 8 different boxs laying around, everytime i have to build a box its within 1hr max to cut and assemble, i think the box i got now took 20min to cut, put together and what knot im by no means impationent but when wife hates stereos and i have like 4hrs to take out seats, rewire, build a box, install, tune and what knot, shit dont get done to right i think the box in my sig took 2days start to finish, built 1 day, done all the wireing, next day install and wire everything and tune i might just try and do something saterday, the cost in wood to build this box was $40 i think, its wood we had but still dad said it costs to much for a fukin speaker box lol i do with what i can when i can, i like to take my time and do something nice but dont have time, i might just take out the box, run mids n highs or something and design a new box when i can get my new box done im gunna over it with camo felt and leave it would adding height to the box help in any way? i might can get 26-28'' out of it width wise, my depth is stuck to around 10-12'' deep hell i should just build a small sealed box for 1 of my 15's and be done with it

so pritty much box is good for 1 sub, would just running 1 sub help with port tuning or no? lol this box is full of fail i wonder if 800rms would be to much for a 500rms woofer sealed? i wonder if i could get louder with 2 8's, i had 2 of my old 8's on 1000rms and they sounded pritty good, didn't do much for lows but the 38-40+ range was sweet i could wire em to 1ohm and keep the gain down, would port be better on bottom or drivers side? there in there own home subwoofer boxs i might just do that, these 10's dont do me for shit, i think the old box i built for my 8's was around 2cf common chamber, i might be able to fit 2 10's in it

i dunno if i should have said this earlyer but these are sq subs and are recomended to be ran in a 1cf sealed box for each woofer, not to be ran in a ported box, they can get loud in a ported box but need a big one the box i had them in befor was 2cf give or take tuned to around 36-38htz could i still run this box sealed or does the port displace to much room and only make box 1.4-1.5cf? but ya soundstream recomends u run them in a sealed box, might have to just run em sealed, can i get a 2cf common chamber box out of 24'' wide, 12'' tall, 11'' deep?

if so, you are tuned to 106hz with 1.21 net volume and you have 78 sq inch of port with 64.46 sq inch of port per cube.. your ported box is all fucked up lol Shit that post had me rolling lol, did me also, cant help i dont know shit about ported boxs

hahah, damn, on thorres box calc when i put in the demintions it said i was tuned to the 50's maby 106htz is why the subs dont move bout a fuckin waste of wood i got a question tho, why does it move hella air when i cover half of the port with a board? would it work ok if i put a cover over the port and just run it sealed? if my jigsaw wasn't fucked up i would redo the baffle and just run 1 10 is there any hope in this box or what this is why i dont build ported boxs, theres to much shit to put into thought for the time i have to build and install it i do in 1day what some people do in 1week, i have little time if no time to design a box why does the thorres box calc say if i put a 3'' piece of pipe in the box @ 8'' long that it will tune the box to 34htz? but the port i got now is in the 100's

13'' i think it is, i'll measure it after work

port is 8'' deep by 6'' wide in a L shape i have 5200 posts due to my knolage of everything else, i cant figure out ported boxs, i might just make this box sealed its a common chamber subs only need 1cf each sealed so it should be ok and subs are soundstream vgw 10's http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5458_Soundstream-VGW-10.html they are more of a sq sub but they got pritty loud, i was shaking a wooden table about 10-15ft away with my old ported box, it just took up to much space i dunno, im not a dumbass i just dont know much about ported boxs, i can do sealed boxs good tho, might just cut a board to go over the port hole and see how that works, i got half of the port coverd and air flows out it like a boss, might have to do the parts express deal where u fill the port to make it smaller and drop tuning, it works how i did it, i dunno why box is so small is i got a car seat in my truck so i do with what i got on space

we'll i built a new box and, well my tuning aint what i wanted, if i can go from 12'' in hight of my port down to atleast 6'' it will drop my tuning a ton i used thores box tuning calc to check what my tuning is, and it was about what i thought it would be, im in the high 50htz range , i wanted in the 30's box is 15'' high, 24'' wide, 11'' deep, this is the best i could do and still keep space, box has 2 10's in it powered with 1000rms give or take, even with no ssf i cant hit any lows lol, subs hardly move can someone help me please lol i know about sealed boxs somewhat but this is why i hate ported boxs says my box is a little over 1.5cf or so, might be more but to be honest i think im around 1cf with sub displacement, im thinking of inverting the subs to see if that helps a little and ive heard that "filling" your port to size it down will lower tuning also, i can almost full tilt the truck and i hardly feel any air out of the port and subs dont move, i cover half of the port and its a fukin hurricane but still not the best output, i get more bass from my 6&1/2's than this box, my old box was around 2cf or so tuned to around 36htz and pounded the hell out of the lows, shook my truck, with same speakers, i dunno what to do, i cant build many more boxs due to how much wood costs, its built out of 7/8'' cabnet grade birch plywood i want something simple if its possable, im thinking to get rid of port all together, put a port baffle on the box and use 2 2'' ports about 8'' long to see how that works or 1 3'' port if it helps i listen to alot of rock and country but i like to pound lows a little bit with some decaf once in a while

this site has some good stuff, dunno if they would want any of it tho, our golf cart is electric, cant do much to one of those, but the gas ones has the power, we got 2 of em but there to old http://www.everythingcarts.com/ do work son

those must be mtx 7000's or 5000's, the 3000's couldn't handle the power i had a mtx 7000 8ohm 12 and that bitch wanged like hell, i think i got it for like $20 lol there like 1200w max, 300-600rms, i was giveing mine prolly 400rms with a messed up spider good video

cool, i like downfire boxs alot another site if no one is on to answer ur questions or u need quick references is the12volt.com, ive picked up some things off of there i wish they went more in depth with other things rather than what they do, but what they do is good enough

for t-nuts do u glue em in or just hammer em in? when i build my new box im gunna use em, i got a few laying around, is there any special bolt or just w'e works? and i lost the gasket thing that goes around the basket so would it harm if i used small washers? maby some with rubber on em for ur sub drywall screws will work, i use different ones for mine tho, i dunno what kind tho, i seem to have problems with the heads breaking off of the fine thread drywall screws, maby the shank aint big enough tho reason i ask is im gunna do a downfire box and i dont want my subs falling out and what knot also the t-nuts we speak of will help u add "beauty panels" where there no place to attach to, just drill a hole, hammer them in, and use a bolt with according size/thread and works good another tip, if u want to paint ur screws/bolts for a custom look, take a old card board box, stick them threw all the way to the head, and u can spray away at it, wont effect threads and looks good here are the t-nuts we speak of there the same thing used on bottom of furniture for levelers and what knot i was once a , glad some people decided to help me rather than on every idea i had lol good luck with w/e u figure out

i got somewhat of an idea on how to do it but i dunno if the dd1 can check speaker leads as well as rcas, cause most people with smaller setups run there speakers off the deck and subs from an amp so how do u check that ur speaker outputs are not clipping? and with this being said, if ur car has a amp off ur stock deck, how would u find the clip in that? im not downing the dd1 by any means, but some cars that ive delt with had these issues and mine also so would be good to figure this out also, im more concerned on how to use it properly rather than how close it is to an actual scope i would like to find this out befor i buy one im not bashing anything, just trying to learn all i can befor u pick up one

extended cab truck or regular cab? i got a 99 tacoma i just did a downfire, its the best sounding and loudest box ive put in my truck, ive tried every possable position with every possable box and this is the best i was gunna try and put some subs in my rear cubby holes under rear seats but i dunno how they will sound

damn, the whole time i was thinking "they should have stopped with dr subwoofer", now he has a brother pfft

i know bandpass's are hard to work on, but i know with 4th and 6th order bandpass's the internal port should be tuned lower than external port i guess i mean this aint really a win loose as i can just nail a piece of wood over the hole and go back to what i have already i just dont know if the waves will cancel each other and what knot