lagexe

This is my first post here, That said I hope that I'm not breaking any rules or leaving any info out. I'm wanting to buy one of the 3 amps. I really want the BRZ2400.1D, but if the price is right I could go for any. Also, I know the HFi3000D does not do 3000, and I know it is NOT CEA-compliant. However I feel confident that it would do 2000-2500 which is what I'm look for. Thanks for your concern, No sarcasm is intended.

Thanks... Perhaps I missed something, I though Oscope was for clipping, and DD-1 was for distortion... O Same tool the DD-1 is just simplified and way easier than an O-Scope. Oic, Well thanks guys!

Thanks... Perhaps I missed something, I though Oscope was for clipping, and DD-1 was for distortion... O

I suppose I could also use a Distortion tool. Where do you guys suggest shopping?

It does help thank mate. I have an idea, but I may have to rebuild my box I have maybe 5"-6" of room to spare (up and down). Since I've decided to dig into my back seat area, I'm probably gonna do something similar. I'm gonna do a lot of planning with it. I'll reopen and see what people think. EDIT: Reopen this thread

Thanks mate, this also helps. Thanks!

Hey thanks a lot mate!

A false floor, should this be a exact cutout of the back of my box? I have subs up and port back, if that matters.

Sorry for the delay, I got real busy. I don't mind reinstalling my wires, if that would look better. Also, I could try using loom, I would love to start over (again ) is that would help. I do want to start demoing one, and do not want people to look at my build/wires and go "wtf?". Do you have any tutorials, tips, videos, etc that could better help me understand what is going through someone's head as they wire (prettily)?

I got home yesterday around 12:45am and worked on my wire till around 8:15am this morning. I took my time, measured everything, made sure every wire was even and sealed off where it needed to be, everything I hear people say. However, my wiring looks like crap. I zipped every wire from an amp together to try and make it look better, but if didn't help. Obviously I'm missing something, almost 7.5hrs of work and nothing special to show for it. I'll try to put up some pics when I get home. In the mean time anyone have some tutorial on how to wire, and make it look good? Also, I have looked through countless projects in the Member-Design Forum, which actually gave me a few ideas that helped a LITTLE; like using bolts as terminals to keep things hidden, Relays to better REMs, etc. So far my google searches have come up with results I found to be unhelpful. So thanks for time, links, and any tips. I don't think it would help you, help me.. But, I drive a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo My box is about 8cf, it's 44.75" wide (left to right), and 24" tall. I have my second battery (soon I'll have third) in the back 4 amps in all. Amp-1 is my sub amp, only 2 speaker wires come out of it, and one RCA line (in). Amp-2 is a 4 channel with 8 speaker lines going out 4mids/4tweets (front and back), also it has 2 RCA lines running in, none running out. Amp-3 Plays my bullets tweets, 2 speaker lines out, 1 RCA line in, 1 RCA line out. Amp-4 plays my 6x9s in the very back of the jeep. I build this system with 'Tail-Gating' in mind. That said, yes my 6x9s are facing out the back. Amp-4 has 2 speaker lines running out, 1RCA in, 1RCA out. Thanks again for any and all help.

You will be okay mixing the batteries but its preferred to have all the batteries matching. As you can see the battery says 2000 amps max and probably 925 amps continuous It would cost more, and it will take more, but I ordered 2 of the yellow tops I currently have. Also, thanks for the info, I didn't know batteries could do more than what they are rated.

I really don't know much about chemistry or how a battery works, so is this an okay mix or not? Also, is the battery 925amps or 2000? http://www.audiosavings.com/viewer/images.aspx?item_guid=6124420f-cdfe-4ecb-b1dc-b470948e61e0&image_guid=67362d95-c018-4cfe-9770-e71f91a5fa20 Thanks.

I will be adding filing away the Glue run off. I will be carpeting it after. I did fix my wires so they are the on the inside of the washer instead of the outside. Also, if anyone is wondering: Yes, I did this in my living room . Thanks for checking it out! EDIT: Also, sorry about all the weird lighting. I bought a head lamp, I kept forgetting to take it off. BTW if you don't own a head lamp, get one. Easiest time I have every had working on something. Also, you get to look like Sam Fisher....<---Nerd Joke

Note this is two boxes in one. 2 separate chambers, and ports. Around $120, 4 tubes of Dap, 16 90degree brackets, 1 bottle of Gorilla wood glue, 2 LED strips, 40 screws, (?)# of finishing nails, and around 8hrs.... I give you: Torres per box:

what the hell did you just say Sorry for the delay: Do I need the inline crossover (yellow thing) if I plan on using my amp to do all the bass-cleaning. I'll have the amp pushing the tweeter set to HPF and the frequency block of the HPF turned up kinda high. I only ask if I "Need" the inline crossover because I'm afraid it will lower the db of the tweeter. If I don't need it, I don't want to use, but I don't know if I need it or not.

If I have an amp with hpf on and the freq set high, do I "need" it to keep the tweet playing for a year or 2 (no I don't turn my HU all the way up, and I don't set my amps higher than HU-output)? If it will not take my spl down that would be great, if it's a noticeable difference I dunno if I want that.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_37222_Power-Acoustik-NX-6.html What is the yellow thing? I think some tweets come with a resistor to change impedance from 4->8, or something like that. Others I think have a cap to filter bass, but what the heck does this one do. I'm no electrician, so I don't know how to decipher what it is, or if I should put my speaker input on it, or skip it. Thanks for the help! Pic below of the yellow *thingy*

Thanks mate, To winning the lotto

Yeah when I get the 17' 0-Gauge, I'll buy some more from someone here, or an online store. For now, I'm hoping the double 4-guage (grounded to the chassis) will have to suffice. I don't like half-assing things, but lack funds leave me no choice.

Thanks! Anyway, I will certainly take you up on your offer. I'll PM you when I get paid, or do you plan on selling right away? If not, when I get paid we'll work out a price, pee on some more dogs, and have brew. For all your help, I can NOT say thanks enough! ^That^ goes for everyone. Thanks guys!

I have only bought things from store, so name your price, and tell me how this works. Also, It might have to wait till next pay check. When I say "I blew through my budget", I mean: I killed him, all his family, then took his girl-friend out on a date he could never afford. Also, I peed on his dog.

Thanks, for the reply. Also, I have 4 gauge running to the back. I only put 0-gauge on the Primary-Negative to account for all non-audio current. From what you replied, and the one above you, I should ground my second with 1(?)4-guage wire till I can upgrade to 0-Gauge all around?

Never thought you were! Jerks wouldn't go into such level of detail, not in a helpful way anyway .

arcadeguest, Last question for you, would I be okay Connecting my 2nd battery to the frame of my jeep with 4gauge? I could easily double up with 5ish foot of the stuff. My primary battery is connected with 0-Gauge. I already blew my budget for the upgrade, so I'm trying to keep it cheap, and be semi-clean.